GAZ-53 GAZ-3307 GAZ-66

Removing the injectors. Removing Common Rail injectors Removing diesel elements

Injection nozzles are an integral part of a gasoline or diesel engine. This device is responsible for high-precision metered injection of fuel under a certain pressure into the intake manifold or directly into the combustion chamber, which depends on the design features and the implementation of the power unit's power supply circuit.

During operation, any injector nozzles tend to clog. On cars with high mileage, this device may fail, since these elements operate at high temperatures, often the fuel itself contains many impurities. As a result, the inside of the nozzle is covered with varnish deposits.

For the reasons indicated above, the throughput is disrupted, there may be problems with both opening and closing of injectors, etc. In such conditions, the engine loses power, fuel consumption increases, cold starts becomes more difficult, and smoke is noted. In view of the above, there is a periodic need, as well as for replacement. Next, we'll look at how to remove the injectors yourself, and we'll also talk about how to check the removed injector.

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When to check injectors and fuel injection quality

Fuel injectors are initially designed for a fairly long service life (100-150 thousand km). At the same time, low-quality fuel and untimely replacement of fuel filters can lead to the need for cleaning after 30-40 thousand km. We add that for checking and cleaning injectors, there are methods that allow you to implement this procedure without removing them.

The urgent need to remove elements for injection often arises closer to 100 thousand kilometers traveled, since devices by this time usually need not only cleaning, but also detailed testing, calibration of injectors or even replacement. The main reasons for such a procedure can be considered enhanced, noticeably increased consumption fuel, unstable engine operation in different modes (both under load and transient).

In some cases, it is enough to identify only one faulty element, which allows you to get rid of the malfunction without having to remove all the injectors from the engine at once. This is especially true for diesel internal combustion engines, where dismantling is somewhat complicated in comparison with analogues on gasoline. In short, each injector simply shuts off one at a time. The moment when one of the injectors is turned off and at the same time the motor has stopped smoking, will indicate the need to remove and check a particular device without the need to remove the rest.

Removing injectors from the motor for diagnostics

On modern injection systems, the element is an electromagnetic device that opens on command to allow some of the fuel to pass through. On most vehicles, the injectors are mounted on the fuel rail (rail). The removal process may differ slightly depending on the type and design of the internal combustion engine, and different tools may also be needed. Often, in order to remove fuel injectors, it is necessary to prepare:

  • screwdriwer set;
  • several keys;
  • pliers or pliers;
  • carburetor cleaner;
  • rags or suitable rags;

Now let's take a closer look at the process and answer the question of how to remove injectors on a VAZ or on any other injection car. First you need to reduce the pressure in the fuel system. Many car models have a fuel rail pressure regulator. This regulator is the valve to be pressed. As a result, the fuel from the rail will flow outward, the pressure will drop.

Remember, nozzles deliver fuel at high pressure. For this reason, care should be taken when working with components that are connected to the engine power supply system or are tested in a pressurized fuel supply. This is because the jet of fuel can cause serious injury.

Next, you need to remove the fuel rail, on which the injectors are fixed. For dismantling, it is necessary to disconnect the connectors with wires, which are fixed with a special clamp. The indicated latch is a spring clip that you need to press on. Then you need to slide the clamp along the ramp with a screwdriver. The injectors can now be removed.

Removal is carried out by slightly turning or shaking the device, after which it is required to remove the O-rings with a flat screwdriver. The rings are usually located on the body and on the atomizer. Note that after removal, the rubber sealing rings of the injectors must be replaced.

Removal of injectors on diesel and direct injection engines

Regarding the need to remove diesel injectors or similar devices on direct injection engines, the procedure is slightly different. The main difficulty is that the elements for supplying fuel are "screwed" into the engine like spark plugs. Working in conditions of strong heating often leads to sticking of nozzles to.

The device turns sour from the fact that moisture enters the nozzle well, coking occurs in the well after the exhaust gas breaks through, carbon deposits accumulate on the O-ring, etc. The process of removing the injector on diesel engines with the Common Rail system, as well as units with direct fuel injection, requires the additional presence of special pullers (reverse hammer) and other tools.

The presence of a tool and certain skills allows you to avoid frequent problems when trying to remove injectors on an internal combustion engine with direct injection: damage to the injector thread, destruction of the device body, finding a part of the atomizer body in the cylinder head after the device breaks, etc.

In other words, the threads will sour and the body may simply burst during dismantling. As a result, you have to drill out the remaining parts, restore the thread and perform a number of other manipulations. In some cases, after a non-professional removal, a partial repair of the cylinder head may be necessary. It should also be remembered that the injectors themselves are expensive devices. Replacing a broken item will incur additional financial costs.

How to check fuel injectors

There are many ways to check fuel injection devices, ranging from artisanal to checking on special diagnostic stands. When self-checking, it is often possible to assess only the ability of the device to open and close, make sure that the nozzles do not "pour" or overflow fuel, and also visually assess the quality of the fuel atomization (torch). To do this, power is supplied to the removed nozzle, and fuel or a cleaner is pumped through it.

We add that diagnostics on professional equipment allows you to determine the accuracy of the operation and the efficiency of each element by comparing with the rest. This approach provides a much more objective assessment of serviceability and performance, since the operation of injection devices when tested at the stand simulates the operation of these elements on the engine in different modes.

Read also

Symptoms of malfunction and check of injection nozzles without dismantling. Diagnostics of injector power supply, performance analysis. Tips and tricks.

  • When to clean injectors on a car, signs and symptoms. Self-cleaning of injection nozzles: available ways cleaning the injector.


  • Removal and installation of unit injector

    The sequence of removal and installation of unit injectors in a diesel engine.


    1-Radiator frame with hinged parts, 2-Bolt (4pcs. Tightening torque 8Nm), 3-Bolt (2pcs. Tightening torque 20Nm), 4-Bolt (8pcs. Tightening torque 20Nm),

    Take off and put aside expansion tank cooling systems
    -Remove the filler pipe of the washer reservoir and headlamp cleaner
    -Unscrew the screws 4
    -Screw the guide rods into the right and left side members (2 each)


    -Unscrew screws 2 and 3 (left and right)
    -Disconnect the intercooler pressure hoses
    -Using the guide rods tool, move the radiator frame forward by about 15 cm in the direction of the arrow.


    -Tighten hoses and wires next.

    If there are no guide rods, the radiator frame can be carefully placed on the pads, choosing their height. The photo shows the approximate position of the radiator frame installed on the pads.


    Removing the nozzle:
    -Remove the inlet manifold
    -Remove the shroud as well as the cylinder head cover
    -Turn the crankshaft with a wrench so that the pair of cams, respectively installed or removed, evenly points upwards. If there is no wrench for turning the crankshaft, you can do it differently. Jack up the front wheel of the vehicle. Switch on top gear. Rotate the wheel slowly with your hands until the cams are in the desired position.


    -Loosen the locknuts of the adjusting bolts -1- and unscrew the bolts so that the corresponding rocker arm rests on the spring of the pusher of the unit injector


    -Unscrew the fastening bolts -2- of the rocker arm shaft from the outside to the inside and remove the rocker arm shaft
    -Unscrew the fastening bolt -3- of the shoe and remove the shoe
    - Lift the unit injector connector with a screwdriver. To avoid skewing, support the back of the connector with light finger pressure.
    -Insert the puller instead of the clamping block into the side cutout of the unit injector

    If there is no puller, you can make it yourself. For example, such as shown in the photo.


    - Using careful tapping movements, pull the unit injector upwards from its seat in the cylinder head.

    Installing the unit injector


    1-20 Nm + turn 1/4 turn (90 °), 2-lock nut, 3- adjusting bolt (replace at each disassembly), 4- rocker shaft with a rocker arm, 5- block, 6-12 Nm + turn 3- / 4 turns (270 °), 7- pump nozzle, 8- sealing rings, 9- thermal insulation, 10- retaining ring.

    When installing a new unit injector on the engine, it is imperative to replace the corresponding adjusting bolt in the rocker arm. New nozzles are supplied complete with O-rings and heat shielding seal installed. If an old unit injector is installed, it is necessary to replace it with new O-rings and a thermal insulator. Make sure the rings are not twisted.

    - Lubricate the rings with oil and very carefully install the injectors into the seat in the engine cylinder head

    - Insert the unit injector into the seat by pressing evenly until it stops

    - Insert the clamping pad into the side cutout of the unit injector.

    Attention!

    If the unit injector is not at right angles to the retainer, the fastening screw may loosen after a certain time, resulting in irreversible damage to the unit injector and the seat.

    - Screw the new fixing bolt into the block so that you can turn the unit injector slightly

    - Position the template as shown between the bearing seat and the unit injector.


    - Turn the unit injector body by hand relative to the template

    Helpful advice!

    If you do not have a template available, then before removing the nozzle, measure the gap between the nozzle and the bearing seat (by selecting a plate of a certain thickness). In the figure, the arrow indicates the location of the gap measurement.


    - Correct, if necessary, the position of the injector and tighten the mounting bolts. Tightening torque 12Nm followed by 270 ° (3/4 turn)

    - Refit the rocker arm shaft and carefully tighten the new bolts

    - Tighten the inner bolts first, then both outer bolts. Then tighten in the same sequence to 20 Nm + 90 ° (1/4 turn)

    - Place the indicator on the injector adjusting screw as shown in the figure.


    - Crank the crankshaft in the direction of rotation of the engine so that the rocker roller stops at the top of the drive cam. The side of the roller (arrow A in the figure) is at the highest point, the indicator (arrow B in the figure) is at the lowest point

    - After that it is necessary to remove the indicator

    - Then unscrew the adjusting screw 180 ° back from the stop.


    - While holding the screw in this position, tighten the lock nut to a torque of 30 Nm

    - Reinsert the unit injector connector and secure the engine cylinder head cover.

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    The injector is an electromagnetic device in the engine power system, which is responsible for metering the fuel supply to the intake manifold. Due to the high temperature and poor quality of the fuel, during operation, formations with a varnish-like structure can occur inside the injector. As a result, it does not open well, which negatively affects engine starting and its power. To ensure the throughput of the injector, and therefore the optimal operation of the entire engine starting and control system, it is necessary to get rid of contaminants. Definitely before taking on this important task, the nozzle must be removed.

    If you feel the strength and enthusiasm with your own hands to dismantle the fuel injectors, it makes sense to heed the advice. Fans to personally perform all the manipulations with their own car claim that it is necessary to prepare: sets of screwdrivers, wrenches, power pliers with a lever and a lock, carbocliner and rags. If you want to perform the operation of removing this device effectively and correctly, you should adhere to a certain order of its implementation. So let's get started. First of all, the fuel rail is removed along with all the injectors, then, while simultaneously clamping the spring clip, the wiring block is disconnected. A screwdriver is taken, with the help of which the latch is shifted along the ramp. Then the nozzles are removed from the ramp, which scrolls slightly at the same time. Next, using a flathead screwdriver, you need to get rid of the O-rings located on the body of the electromagnetic device and the spray gun. It is advisable to replace them with new ones. Owners of cars equipped with diesel engines... This is due to the specifics of the body structure and the engine itself: when moisture gets in, the injectors stick to the cylinder head. It is best to dismantle such nozzles using special equipment so as not to waste a lot of time on milling, welding and replacing consumables. You can spend a lot of money on all this, but you still can't achieve the desired effect. It happens that it is necessary to sacrifice all the injectors, remove the cylinder head and drill out the faulty parts. Note that the fuel injectors work with high pressure. An unexpected jet of fuel from an injector nozzle can cause unsafe consequences and severe skin damage. Therefore, when performing any actions with a device under pressure, be alert, taking care that the jet of fuel does not splash in your direction. If possible, have a professional check the pressure in the fuel system. If you take on this business on your own, take precautions. Please note that fuel injectors have a fairly long service life. Perhaps there is no need to dismantle them at all. How to decide in this case? To determine the advisability of replacing the injectors, first pay attention to the mileage. If he has reached a mark above 100 thousand kilometers, there is probably a point in checking. Contact a good specialist so that they perform high-quality testing, disassembly and calibration of injectors in your car. Do you suspect that faulty fuel injectors are causing the smoke and knocking sounds? The reason can be established without disassembly. To do this, you will need to lower the clamps and briefly remove the air duct located in the area of ​​the air cleaner and intake manifold. When you remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine, fix the air duct to its original position and tighten the clamps. Now is the time to start driving the engine to high speed. idle move... And then carefully loosen the tightening of the fittings in turn, do it carefully, it is advisable to cover the adjacent area with rags. As a rule, when the fitting of the faulty injector is turned off, the knocking and smoke disappear.

    Now we know everything about the technology for removing and cleaning injectors. These simple rules will help you to independently carry out repairs, which at any service station will be quite expensive. The technology does not depend on the type and volume of the engine and is suitable for any car model.

    Since today the fuel is not of the highest quality, many owners need to make a replacement or. Injectors fail due to dirt in the fuel and various impurities. You can understand that they work poorly by the behavior of the engine (loss of power, increased fuel consumption, etc.).

    Before dismantling the nozzles on the VAZ-2114, you will need to relieve the pressure in the fuel rail. The process is carried out by disconnecting the connectors with wires from the fuel pump and then start the motor. The machine should work in this position until it stalls. The procedure must be repeated until the car can start.

    Disconnect the connector with wires from the fuel pump

    Withdrawal:

    1. It is necessary to dismantle the branch pipe from the air filter;
    2. Disconnect the wires from the injectors;

      Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel rail

    3. and throttle position;
    4. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
    5. Now you need to unscrew the pipes for the gas supply.

      Unscrew the gasoline supply pipes

    6. It is recommended to remove the throttle cable as well, so it will be more convenient to carry out the work further.
    7. Next, you need to unscrew the plate that holds the fuel hoses;

      Use a screwdriver to unscrew the bracket on which the fuel pipes are attached

    8. Now it is necessary to dismantle the fuel rail and carefully remove it from the vehicle. In this case, the nozzles must be directed upwards;

      We dismantle the fuel rail

    9. Now you need to remove the injectors themselves, disconnecting the brackets that hold the electrical connectors and the injector itself.
    10. This removes the injectors and can be replaced.

      We remove the nozzle from the hole of the fuel rail


      Important! If the nozzle is going to be flushed, it is not recommended to put it on a dirty place.

    11. It is better to close the ramp and the holes in it with something so that dirt and other objects do not get there.

    Replacing the nozzle is easy enough. When the old part is removed, install a new one and fix it with a spring washer... After that, you can put the ramp in its place.

    Video about the removal and installation of injectors

    It is important to remember that you should be extremely careful when removing and installing injectors.

    Service workers always advise to adhere to the following points when replacing:

    1. Do not damage the injector when replacing.
    2. It is forbidden to disassemble the injectors for repair.
    3. Care must be taken not to get oil inside.
    4. It is strictly forbidden to dip parts in any detergent. They have electrical connections in the middle.
    5. There is no need to rush to part with the money for new parts, the problem may be solved by ordinary flushing of the channels.
    6. To do this, it is recommended to watch a video on correct flushing.

    Video on the correct flushing of nozzles

    Replacement symptoms

    Disassembled injectors

    In fact, there are many reasons why injectors may not work well. And below are described the most common symptoms:

    1. Difficult starting of the engine in any weather;
    2. The engine runs unstable;
    3. The engine stalls at idle;
    4. High speed of rotation of the crankshaft at idle;
    5. Loss of power,;
    6. When you press the gas, shocks or dips may appear;
    7. High gasoline consumption;

    If the nozzle is dirty or damaged, it should be replaced or cleaned. There is no point in repairing it. It should also be noted that today, injectors cannot serve even 100 thousand km.

    We clean the nozzles with our own hands using carburetor cleaning fluid

    Checking old injectors

    Checking injectors at the stand

    You can also check not all injectors at once, but each separately. To do this, you will need to give a current to the part and install a container with fuel to it. During the flow of current, the valve will operate, and gasoline will have to spray through the sprayer. But such a check is inaccurate and will still need to be checked at the stand.

    Choice of nozzles

    For more information on the choice of nozzles, see the material: "".

    Different nozzles from different manufacturers can be installed on the VAZ-2114 model. Depending on this, the durability and their cost also differ.

    Also the choice of nozzles also depends on the working volume and the number of valves... For 16 valve engines, the performance of such parts will be different than for. If the parts are not selected correctly, then, most likely, the gas mileage will be higher or the car will lose power.

    If we talk about choice, then preference should be given to the BOSCH brand by number 0280158502... This is the serial number that is suitable for.

    BOSH injectors catalog number 0280158502

    Injectors fail not only because of their quality, to a greater extent, fuel, in which there is a lot of dirt or large fractions, affects their performance.

    Cleaning nozzles at stations Maintenance will not be cheap. Therefore, if checking and cleaning is not done by hand, then you should think about whether it may be easier to buy new parts and replace them.

    Engine injectors Common rail sometimes need to be cleaned, repaired or replaced. To do this, they must be removed from the engine. I will tell you how I did it in this article.

    Before you start. Important.

    Some injectors have correction codes for the amount of fuel injected. Therefore, before removing, it is advisable to find out if your nozzles have them. If or not they have the opportunity to obtain such information, then it is better to remember which injector was where, it will not be worse, and if there are no such codes, then the installation locations are not fundamental, as in my case.

    Looking under the hood, we will most likely see a plastic dust and heat shield.


    It is held in place by four screws. We unscrew them, remove the casing. Now we see the engine itself.



    First, open the relay and fuse box under the hood and pull out the fuel pump relay. This is so that diesel fuel does not flood the engine and the floor, if you suddenly need to turn on the ignition.



    Then disconnect the electrical connectors of the injectors.



    Pull out the retaining brackets that secure the return hose connections.