Brake fluid for mazda 3. Checking the oil level of an automatic transmission

There are many points that are of interest to motorists, they mainly relate to the technical part of the car. This interest arises for a reason, but in order to get acquainted with the device of your car or self-repair or maintenance.

Yes, there are such types of repairs that you can do yourself, especially since all the information of interest is on the Internet.

Preliminary preparation

Now we will touch on how the oil is changed in the power steering in a Mazda 3. Well, the oil issue is clear to everyone. For the most part, it has the function of lubricating components and assemblies. In the power steering, oil circulates through the hoses and lubricates all the nodes connecting it.

The level of this type of oil can be easily checked and refilled. For this, the expansion barrel, where it is contained, has a maximum and minimum mark.

Power steering is in the common people hydraulics, the function of which is for the driver to easily turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory of movement. If this system is violated, then control of the car is not lost, it just becomes more difficult for a person to turn the steering wheel. This condition is not familiar and can lead to unpredictable situations.

It is easy to check the liquid level; there are special marks for this, which we talked about above. During the operation of the vehicle, oil leaks are possible at the connecting points of the hoses.

Accordingly, the liquid level in this case gradually decreases. This should not be allowed, since over time it can completely leak out and the system will start to run dry, which can lead to pump damage.

The result of all this will be worth a decent sum of money. The power steering pump is put into operation after starting the engine. The best option, if the oil has leaked out, is to evacuate the car.

To carry out timely prevention, you need to follow several steps. There shouldn't be any difficulties in this. Everything is assessed by visual inspection. Start by assessing the power steering oil level and its quality, check the tension of the drive belts, inspect the hoses for cracks and damage.

How to change the oil in the power steering on a Mazda 3?

You can change the oil in the power steering in the Mazda 3 in 2 ways: partial and full. In case of partial replacement You only need a syringe. The replacement procedure is as follows: unscrew the cap in the expansion tank, pump out all the liquid in it with a syringe, then pour new oil into it to the maximum mark, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to the right and left to the final position.

Then we turn off the engine and after a couple of minutes we start again and repeat the procedure. This should be done until the time your oil brightens.

The next way is a complete oil change. This option is considered to be of better quality and more practical. In the Mazda 3 there is a certain algorithm that must be followed.

1. You will need to take care that a little of your vehicle raise. This can be done using a flyover or jack. We raise only the front of the machine so that the front wheels are in the air and you can easily rotate them by hand.

3. Now we are dealing with the hoses, we need to decide which of the hoses is responsible for the flow of oil into the tank, and which for the supply of oil to the pump.

4. When everything is ready, we need to assemble the plug and drain hose. A piece of hose 30-50 cm in size is suitable for the plug. You will have to work a little with the drain hose. But don't worry, it's easy to design too. To do this, you need 3 things: a fitting, an adapter and a hose of about 3 meters. This is the length you will need for ease of use.

5. We start with the oil supply hose. We disconnect it, and lengthen it using a drain hose, which is directed to the drain container. In the place of disconnection in the expansion tank, a plug must be installed. While everything is draining, new liquid is poured into the barrels to the maximum.

6. In order for the liquid to begin to drain, it is necessary to turn the steering wheel to the right and left to the limit. It is not necessary to start the engine during this procedure. Naturally, new oil will go into the system from the tank and it must be gradually refilled. This procedure is carried out until light oil comes out of the hose. You just pump it all over the power steering system Mazda 3.

7. We still have an uncleaned power steering pump. To do this, we start the engine, but not for a long time (about 1-2 seconds is enough).

8. Return the hoses to their original position and add new oil to the level. That's it, the oil in the power steering system has been replaced. After a while, check the level on the expansion tank a couple of times.

	Months	TO-0	12,36,60,84,108,132	24,12	48,96	72	144
	Mileage, t.km	5	15,45,75,105,135,165	30,15	60,12	90	180
	check every 120,000 km for noise, adjust if necessary
Fuel filter	Replacement every 60,000 km
			NS	NS	NS	Z	Z
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z
					NS		NS
		Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS	NS	NS	NS
Coolant FL 22
Other coolants
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z	Z	Z	Z
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
				NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
				T		T	T
						Z	Z
			NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
				Z	Z	Z	Z
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH	WITH	WITH	WITH
	CHECK ANNUALLY
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

* 4 - When using the vehicle in dusty or sandy conditions, replace the air filter every 7,500 km or 6 months.

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 MPS since 2008

Maintenance interval (Months and kilometers), whichever comes first.	Months	TO-0	12,84,132	24,48,96,120	36,108	60	72,144	120
	Mileage, t.km	5	15,105,165	30,60,120,150	45,135	75	90,180	150

Fuel filter	Replacement every 120,000 km
Spark plugs, check (replace if necessary)			NS	NS	NS	Z	NS	Z
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z	O
Fuel vapor absorption system (if installed)				NS				NS
Engine oil and oil filter *1		Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2					NS		NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS			NS	NS
Coolant FL 22	Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years
Other coolants	Replacement for the first time 90,000 km or 4 years, then every 2
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS	NS
Battery electrolyte level and density			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z			Z	Z
Brake pipes, hoses and their connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake booster, hoses and connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Disc brakes (check with removal of wheels)			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering function, steering joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Power steering fluid, tubes, hoses, connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Body and chassis retaining bolts				T			T	T
Manual transmission oil, change						Z		Z
Manual transmission oil, check			NS	NS	NS		NS
Oil level in automatic transmission			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspensions			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Graduation system and thermal protection of the body			CHECK EVERY 80,000 KM
Cabin air filter (if installed)				Z			Z	NS
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH			WITH	WITH
Body condition (rust, corrosion, accident consequences)	CHECK ANNUALLY
Electrical systems, exterior lights and interior lighting.			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Tire pressure (inflated to rated value) and condition			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

O - cleaning, H - replacement, P - check, T - broach, C - lubrication

* 1 - If the car is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change engine oil and an oil filter every 7500 km:

Long-term work on Idling or driving at low speeds.
Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

* 2 - The power steering and air conditioning drive belts are also checked and adjusted if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

* 3 - When using the brakes frequently or when operating the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

* 4 - When using the car in dusty or sandy areas, replace the air filter every 7,500 km or 6 months

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 (1.6 l) until 2008

Maintenance interval (Months and kilometers), whichever comes first.	Months	TO-0	12,84	24,48,96	36	60	72	108
	Mileage, t.km	5	20,140,	40,80,160	60	100	120	180
Timing valve clearance * 5							NS
Fuel filter * 5	Replacement every 60,000 km
							Z
Spark plugs are conventional			NS	Z	NS	NS	Z	Z
			NS		NS	NS		NS
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z	O
					NS		NS	NS
Engine oil and oil filter * 1			Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2					NS		NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS			NS
Coolant FL 22	Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years
Other coolants	Replacement for the first time 90,000 km or 4 years, then every 2
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS
Battery electrolyte level and density			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z			Z
Brake pipes, hoses and their connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake booster, hoses and connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Disc brakes (check with removal of wheels)			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering function, steering joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Power steering fluid, tubes, hoses, connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering connections and elements				NS			NS
Manual transmission oil						Z
Automatic transmission oil level					NS		NS	NS
Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspensions					NS		NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints					NS		NS
Graduation system and thermal protection of the body			CHECK EVERY 80,000 KM
Cabin air filter (if installed)				Z			Z
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH			WITH
Body condition (rust, corrosion, accident consequences)	CHECK ANNUALLY
Electrical systems, exterior lights and interior lighting.			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Tire pressure (inflated to rated value) and condition			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

O - cleaning, H - replacement, P - check, T - broach, C - lubrication

* 1 - If the vehicle is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7,500 km:

Using the vehicle in dusty conditions.
Prolonged idling or driving at low speeds.
Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

* 2 - The power steering and air conditioning drive belts are also checked and adjusted if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

* 3 - When using the brakes frequently or when operating the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

* 4 When using the vehicle in dusty or sandy conditions, replace the air filter every 7,500 km or 6 months.

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 (1.6) since 2008

Maintenance interval (Months and kilometers), whichever comes first.	Months	TO-0	2,84,132	24,48,96,120	36,108	60	72,144	120
	Mileage, t.km	5	5,105,165,	30,60,120,150	45,135	75	90,18	150
Timing valve clearance	Check every 45,000 km or 3 years for noise, adjust if necessary
Fuel filter	Replacement every 120,000 km
Spark plugs, replace every 75,000 km (iridium) * 8			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	Z
Spark plugs are conventional			NS	Z	NS	NS	Z	Z
No-load frequency (for ZJ and Z6)			NS		NS	NS
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z	O
Fuel vapor absorption system (if installed)			Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Engine oil and oil filter * 1			Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS			NS	NS
Coolant FL 22	Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years
Other coolants	Replacement for the first time 90,000 km or 4 years, then every 2
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS	NS
Battery electrolyte level and density			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z			Z	Z
Brake pipes, hoses and their connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake booster, hoses and connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Disc brakes (check with removal of wheels)			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering function, steering joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Power steering fluid, tubes, hoses, connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Body and chassis retaining bolts				T			T	T
Manual transmission oil, change						Z		Z
Manual transmission oil, check			NS	NS	NS		NS
Automatic transmission oil level			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspensions			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Graduation system and thermal protection of the body			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Cabin air filter			NS	Z	NS	NS	Z	Z
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH			WITH	WITH
Body condition (rust, corrosion, accident consequences)	CHECK ANNUALLY
Electrical systems, exterior lights and interior lighting.			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Tire pressure (inflated to rated value) and condition			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

Using the vehicle in dusty conditions
Prolonged idling or driving at low speeds.
Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 (2.0) before 01.01.2008 of release

Maintenance interval (Months and kilometers), whichever comes first.	Months	TO-0	12,84	24,48,96	36	60	72	108
	Mileage, t.km	5	20,140	40,80,160	60	100	120	180
timing valve clearance							NS
fuel filter	Replacement every 60,000 km
Replace spark plugs every 120,000 km. (Iridium)							Z
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z	Z
Exhaust gas recirculation system					NS		NS	NS
Engine oil and oil filter * 1		Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2					NS		NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS			NS
Coolant FL 22	Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years
Other coolants	Replacement for the first time 90,000 km or 4 years, then every 2
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS
Battery electrolyte level and density			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z			Z
Brake pipes, hoses and their connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake booster, hoses and connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Disc brakes (check with removal of wheels)			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering function, steering joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Power steering fluid, tubes, hoses, connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering connections and elements					NS		NS
Manual transmission oil						Z
Automatic transmission oil level					NS		NS	NS
Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspensions				NS			NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints				NS			NS
Graduation system and thermal protection of the body			CHECK EVERY 80,000 KM
Cabin air filter (if installed)				Z			Z
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH			WITH	WITH
Body condition (rust, corrosion, accident consequences)	CHECK ANNUALLY
Electrical systems, exterior lights and interior lighting.			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Tire pressure (inflated to rated value) and condition			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

О - cleaning З - replacing П - checking Т - broaching С - lubrication

* 1 If the vehicle is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

Using the vehicle in dusty conditions
Prolonged idling or driving at low speeds.
Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

* 2 The power steering and air conditioning drive belts are also checked and adjusted if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

* 3 When using the brakes frequently or operating the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

* 4 When using the vehicle in dusty or sandy areas, replace the air filter every 7,500 km or 6 months

MAZDA REGULATIONS 3 (2.0) from 01.01.08

Maintenance interval (Months and kilometers), whichever comes first.	Months	TO-0	12,84,132	24,48,96,120	36,108	60	72,144	120
	Mileage, t.km	5	15,105,165	30,60,120,150	45,135	75	90,180	150
timing valve clearance	check every 45,000 km or 3 years for noise, adjust if necessary
fuel filter	Replacement every 120,000 km
Replace spark plugs every 75,000 km (iridium)			NS	NS	NS	Z	NS	Z
Air filter * 4			O	O	Z	O	Z	O
Exhaust gas recirculation system					NS		NS	NS
Engine oil and oil filter * 1			Z	Z	Z	Z	Z	Z
Drive belts * 2					NS		NS	NS
Syst. engine cooling				NS			NS
Coolant FL 22	Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years
Other coolants	Replacement for the first time 90,000 km or 4 years, then every 2
Fuel pipes and hoses				NS			NS
Battery electrolyte level and density			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake fluid * 3				Z			Z
Brake pipes, hoses and their connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Parking brake			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Brake booster, hoses and connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Disc brakes (check with removal of wheels)			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Steering function, steering joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Power steering fluid, tubes, hoses, connections			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Body and chassis retaining bolts				T			T	T
Manual transmission oil, change						Z		Z
Manual transmission oil, check			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Automatic transmission oil level			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspensions			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Anthers of axle shafts, CV joints			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Graduation system and thermal protection of the body			CHECK EVERY 80,000 KM
Cabin air filter (if installed)			NS	Z	NS	NS	Z	NS
Hinges and locks (grease)				WITH			WITH	WITH
Body condition (rust, corrosion, accident consequences)	CHECK ANNUALLY
Electrical systems, exterior lights and interior lighting.			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS
Tire pressure (inflated to rated value) and condition			NS	NS	NS	NS	NS	NS

О - cleaning З - replacing П - checking Т - broaching С - lubrication

* 1 If the vehicle is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

A) Using the vehicle in dusty conditions
B) Continuous idling or driving at low speeds.
C) Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

* 2 The power steering and air conditioning drive belts are also checked and adjusted if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

* 3 When using the brakes frequently or operating the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

* 4 When using the vehicle in dusty or sandy areas, replace the air filter every 7,500 km or 6 months

Checking the engine oil level

1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level, level surface.

2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

3. Stop the engine and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to drain into the sump.

Rice. 1. Oil dipstick of a gasoline engine

4. Remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert the dipstick as far as it will go (Fig. 1.).

5. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level using it. The normal oil level in the engine corresponds to the range between the maximum and minimum level marks.

If the oil level is near or below the lower minimum mark, top up to the maximum mark.

6. Before inserting the dipstick into the engine, make sure the O-ring on the dipstick is in place.

The change in the oil level between the marks on the dipstick corresponds to the addition or consumption of the next volume of oil.

For ZJ and Z6 engine ─ 1.00l. For LF engine ─ 0.75.

Check the temperature of the onset of freezing of the coolant in the engine cooling system at least once a year - before the start of the winter season, and also before driving to places where the ambient temperature can be negative.

Check the condition and tightness of all hoses of the engine cooling system and heater.

Replace any bent or damaged hoses.

Rice. 2. Checking the coolant level

On a cold engine, the coolant level should correspond to the base of the radiator filler neck and be between the upper ("FULL") and lower ("LOW") marks on the wall of the expansion tank (Fig. 2.).

If the coolant level has dropped to the lower mark ("LOW"), add coolant to expansion tank up to the top mark ("FULL").

To prevent the coolant from freezing and protect the engine from corrosion, use only the recommended grade and concentration of coolant to top up.

NOTE If “FL22” is marked on or near the radiator or expansion tank cap, add only FL22 coolant.

Checking the working fluid level in the power steering reservoir

To avoid damage to the power steering pump, do not continue to operate the vehicle if the power steering fluid level has dropped to the lower "MIN" mark.

Use only the recommended hydraulic fluid in the power steering hydraulic system.

Rice. 3. Checking the level of the working fluid in the reservoir of the power steering

Check the power steering fluid level at each engine oil change.

The check is carried out on an idle cold engine.

If necessary, top up the power steering fluid reservoir.

Periodic replacement of the working fluid is not required (Fig. 3).

Checking the automatic transmission oil level

The automatic transmission fluid level should be checked regularly.

Check as follows. The volume of the working fluid changes depending on the temperature.

Check the working fluid level with the engine idling and at normal fluid temperature.

Insufficient working fluid level causes slippage of the friction elements of the automatic transmission.

Too high a fluid level can cause intense foaming, loss of operating fluid and malfunction of the automatic transmission.

1. Park the vehicle on a level, horizontal surface and apply the parking brake.

2. Start the engine and press the brake pedal.

3. Move the range switch lever to all positions one by one and then set it to the “P” (park) position.

Rice. 4. Checking the level of the working fluid of the automatic transmission

4. With the engine idling, remove the automatic transmission control dipstick and wipe it dry.

Then insert the dipstick into place.

Pull out the dipstick again.

The normal operating fluid level corresponds to the range between the marks on the dipstick, see Figure 4.

Checking the level of washer fluid for windows and headlights

Fill the windshield washer reservoir only with a special fluid designed for washer fluid. or clean water.

It is dangerous to pour low-freezing coolant into the windscreen washer, as it will impair visibility if it hits the windshield, which could lead to a road accident.

Rice. 5. Checking the liquid level of the washers of glasses and headlights

Check the fluid level in the washer fluid reservoir and top up if necessary (fig. 5).

To check the fluid level in the front washer reservoir, remove the cap from the filler neck.

Then close the hole in the center of the cover with your finger and lift it up.

The liquid level in the washer reservoir corresponds to the height of the liquid column in the transparent tube attached to the cover.

Add windscreen washer fluid if necessary.

Instead of washer fluid at a positive ambient temperature, you can fill the tank with plain clean water.

If the ambient temperature is below zero, use only low-freezing windscreen washer fluid.

The windscreen and tailgate washers use the same fluid reservoir.

On Mazda cars of the third series, the manufacturer provides antifreeze filling as a coolant. Antifreeze is tinted with red, blue and green colors.

Today on sale you can find the original concentrated antifreeze for Mazda 3, the composition of which provides for its dilution by adding distilled water.

If the cooling system is leaking, then the liquid can evaporate or leak, constant monitoring of the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank is required and, if necessary, it should be topped up.

Antifreeze requires replacement at intervals specified by the manufacturer or depending on operating conditions. Such a need allows observing the frost-resistant properties of antifreeze, as well as preventing the appearance of corrosion. Antifreeze should be replaced at intervals of 90,000 km or after three years from the date of filling.

Antifreeze is based on ethylene glycol, which is ideal for any cooling system that may contain various metals. Usually, the manufacturer indicates the percentage of anti-corrosion additive and antifreeze in the composition on the package.

Coolant replacement process

Draining the coolant

Stop the engine of your Mazda 3 and wait until it has completely cooled down. Unscrew the cap of the coolant reservoir, to do this, turn it counterclockwise a few turns, then wait a little, this will be required to relieve pressure in the system. Only then can you completely unscrew the cover and remove it.
Put the car on the handbrake, lift the car on a lift.
Remove the lower center radiator panel. Unscrew the mounting bolts and disconnect the clamps holding the panel.
There is a drain plug in the lower right part of the radiator, place an empty container, preferably a large one, under the drain hole.
Unscrew the plug and drain the coolant into the prepared container.
After the fluid drains, bring the container to the drain plug located on the cylinder block. If the engine has a balancing shaft, then it will have two such drain plugs, one will be located on the left in the front part, and the other on the left in the back of the block. After unscrewing the drain plugs, allow the liquid to drain completely from the unit.
Replace any removed drain plugs.

Flushing the cooling system

To carry out the process of flushing the radiator, disconnect the pipes going to the radiator from the top and bottom.
Next, you need a garden hose or something similar, insert it into the top hole on the radiator. Direct a stream of clean water into the radiator, so you will flush the cooling radiator, carry out the procedure until clear water, without contamination, pours out of the hole on the radiator for the lower branch pipe.
If dirty water flows out of the radiator for a long time, then it is worth using a special agent for flushing the cooling systems.
If you use flushing liquid, then carefully read the instructions of the manufacturer of such a product. If your car's radiator is very dirty, remove it completely, insert the hose into the hole at the bottom for the lower pipe, and start flushing the radiator in a counter-current manner.

Filling with coolant

Before filling the cooling system with new antifreeze, check the condition of all hoses and clamps, the hoses should be intact and the clamps should be tightened sufficiently. Remember that antifreeze is used all year round to prevent corrosion of engine parts.
First, pour the required amount of antifreeze into an empty, clean container with a large volume, add distilled water to it in a 1: 1 ratio, the finished volume of the resulting liquid should be 6.5-7 liters.
Slowly start pouring the prepared liquid into the system through the filler hole on the expansion tank, take your time, let the air escape through the cooling channels. Pour the liquid up to the MAX level on the markings on the wall of the expansion tank.
Replace the coolant reservoir cap and screw it tight.
Start the car engine, leave it running on idle... Wait for the cooling fan to turn on and then turn off. During this time, the trapped air should leave the system. Stop the engine.
Wait until the engine has cooled down, then check the level of antifreeze in the tank, add antifreeze or distilled water if necessary.

Attention! Important!

Before starting work on replacing antifreeze, turn off the engine and wait until it has completely cooled down.
Do not allow the antifreeze to get on the skin or painted parts of the car body, otherwise the indicated surfaces should be rinsed under a stream of clean water with a large amount.
Do not leave an open container with antifreeze unattended or store it in easily accessible places, and keep it open - the liquid is extremely poisonous!

After pouring antifreeze into the system, attach a sticker to the neck of the coolant reservoir indicating the type of fluid filled in, its color and the date it was filled. With further topping up of the coolant, it will be clear which type is needed, and in what proportion.
When draining antifreeze, not for replacement purposes, but for other reasons, if it is clean and has been used for less than three years, then it can be reused.
If the antifreeze was not replaced in a timely manner or a layer of scale, rust and other deposits formed on the walls of the cooling channels, which led to a decrease in the efficiency of the cooling system, then its properties can be restored by flushing the system.

Private, let's get straight to the point.

You will need: Mazda 3 with an old brake. Brake fluid 0882380004 TOYOTA 467 rubles. Keys for 8 and 9 - free. Transparent tube - a penny. Capacity - free.

Assistant - 1.5 liters of beer.

We start with the right rear wheel, then the left rear wheel, then the right front, then the left front, then the clutch slave cylinder. Jack the car and remove the left rear wheel, unscrew the brake tank cap, put the assistant behind the wheel. We put a rubber tube on the fitting (windshield washer tube, in any department of AvtoVAZ), then unscrew it with a key of 8 and the assistant begins to press the brake pedal.

From this line, we must drain the entire volume of the tank + the volume of the line, so that only the line can be drained from the next lines, pardon the tautology. In order not to air the system, it is necessary to monitor the brake level all the time and pour it into the tank. Also, in order not to air it, you can pump it in the following way - with the nozzle closed, press the brake pedal 3-4 times, leave it in the lower position, open the nozzle, the liquid will pour briskly under pressure, then close the nozzle, after closing, release the brake pedal and again press it 3-4 times, open the fitting, etc. Well, in general, here ... We drained the tank and the right highway, unscrew the LZ wheel, drain the highway, unscrew the PP wheel, drain the highway. By the way, there is a turnkey fitting No. 9 on the front wheels. We unscrew the LP wheel, drain the highway, it is the smallest.

It remains only to drain the brake from the working cylinder, we had to look for it :)

I did not completely remove the protection, I unscrewed the two front bolts to get my hand through. In theory, the clutch is pumped by the clutch pedal, but my fluid flowed very vigorously by gravity. And when they tried to pump the pedal, it remained in the lower position. In short, like this I changed the brake, I did not notice anything new on the brakes, the clutch pedal became a little lighter. Although now, after a week, I think she has remained the same.

I also bring it to my judgment air filter... I repent, I will be executed.

Something like this.

www.drive2.ru

Fluids for Mazda: what and where to fill?

Various working fluids and oils are needed in a car in order to:

avoid overheating,
achieve better lubrication of rubbing surfaces,
transmit effort, etc.

Refilling is a responsible and important process. Moreover, it is carried out only if there is a flow. If the readings on the reservoir or dipstick are within the normal range - between the MIN and MAX marks, then nothing needs to be refilled. It is better to monitor the level regularly - once every two to three days. Also, it will not hurt to check the levels both before and after a long trip.

A sharp drop in the level may indicate a malfunction - it is better to immediately contact a specialized service.

Filling with brake fluid

Example of brake fluid for Mazda

Brake fluid is needed in a car to transfer force from the brake pedal to the pads, which directly block the wheels, causing the car to come to a standstill. To find where to fill it in the Mazda 3 - open the hood and look for a white tank near the engine wall (windshield), on the lid of which there is an inscription "DOT" (the lid is black, and the inscriptions are yellow). Before pouring, we look at the level on the front, relative to the movement of the car, the wall has corresponding marks. The normal value is halfway between them. It is better to use brake fluids marked DOT 3 or 4 for filling.

Fill in oil

One of the types of oils from Mazda

The only place in Mazda 3 where you can fill oil yourself is the engine. Here, for this purpose, a special neck is provided, closed with a lid with the corresponding designation "oiler". Before refilling - check its level with a dipstick. If it is between the minimum and maximum marks, you do not need to pour anything.

The choice of oil for Mazda 3 depends on the tastes of the driver. Quite a lot of owners prefer to fill in Mazda branded oil, which is initially used in factory production (the car is supplied with it in the engine). Other owners give preference to well-known global brands, which, in the development and production of oils, are also guided by the operating parameters of most modern cars.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze offered by Mazda

Coolant - antifreeze, is designed to maintain the operating temperature of the engine and prevent it from overheating. The place where to pour it into the Mazda 3 can be found if you look at the engine compartment from the headlights - there will be an expansion tank to the left of the engine. Antifreeze can only be topped up when the engine is cold - otherwise there is a risk of burns from hot steam and antifreeze.

The normal level is between the minimum and maximum marks. It is best to use Mazda branded antifreeze to top up. The fact is that the recipe is a secret of the car manufacturers. At the same time, it is selected so that the liquid for all surfaces it comes into contact with is not aggressive. This property allows antifreeze to serve for a long time (90 thousand mileage or 3 years of operation).

The selection of working fluids and oils must be approached with special care. It is better to use the original ones, but if they are not available, and replacement / topping up is necessary - take those that are better in quality, in the case of antifreeze, this parameter will be the color.

mazdavod.ru

brake fluid replacement - logbook Mazda 3 2008 on DRIVE2

From the title it is clear that the fluid was asked for a replacement, it is the clutch slurry due to which, perhaps, the speeds were poorly turned on, the reasons described here, surprisingly helped! Maybe because the liquid has not been changed for sure right from the very birth of the car, so much is on the car and there was a family. replaced with pillbox 4 from Honda. Replacement after two years according to the manual. This is how you need to monitor and not only change the oil in the engine, but also brake system... I will say that the speeds began to turn on much better, which means there is an effect from the operation done! Changed for a hundred. Attaching a new fluid to the filler neck of the reservoir with the brake fluid, and on the other hand, pressurized air was supplied to the reservoir, and by displacing the old slurry from each brake caliper, they bleed off the old slurry little by little, and for one from the line leading to each brake caliper ... In general, there is no need for any physical intervention in the form of pumping with a pedal, the brakes remained normal. Maybe even a little more sensitive, it all took about an hour. It took about 900 grams of liquid. Now two more years and then again to replace. Since the liquid absorbs water, its density deteriorates. The brakes and clutch are also deteriorating. Now it remains to enjoy the good work of the brakes and clutch, or again face problems like those described here, which led to the replacement of not only the fluid, but also the rack. but here it will probably cost a maximum of a working cylinder of the brakes and probably a couple more cylinders))))) I will hope that everything will be fine))) not like a rail)))

Price tag: 2,000 ₽ Mileage: 116,000 km

www.drive2.ru

Brake fluid - how much when changing? - We service Mazda 3

Greetings to all. Recently I bought myself a matreha 2L Restayl. I changed all liquids, filters, etc. There is one question left regarding the brake fluid. I climbed the forum, many write that 1 liter is needed for replacement, but the clutch on Mazda is hydraulic, so I wondered where the fluid for it comes from. Therefore, those who have come across this would like to ask a few questions: 1. Is there a separate tank for the clutch, or is the fluid taken from the general system? 2. How much brake fluid is needed for complete replacement taking into account the fact that there is a separate tank for the clutch or is the fluid taken from the general system?

2.a week ago changed for TO-60 000.1 liter

Liter is a lot, take 0.75 .. it will even remain!

0.7325 canister price 300 rubles

less than a liter, one barrels for both mating and brakes))

Thank you for your help, I just do not understand then why they told me that the liter will be even small, and it will be necessary to allegedly need 2 liters, taking into account that the entire system can be replaced (

idiots))

Liter is a lot, take 0.75 .. it will even remain!

0.7325 the price of a canister is 300 rubles, and here the price is. A question was asked ... I gave an answer. Yes and depending on what kind of liquid to pour. Yes, and the volume is different ... I personally took three at 0.25.

I am an adherent of filling in normal liquid - so I filled the motor with Dexelia Ultra 5W-30, a Motul Gear 300 box, and now I'm going to ATE Dot 4 or also Motul in the brake. It's just that this question about the displacement perplexed. Guys acquaintances change everything for me, I know them for a long time, they are adequate and swashbuckling therefore they cannot be called idiots))) Most likely they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they did not encounter the replacement of brakes in Mazda and somehow expressed that if only brakes to change 1 liter each was enough, but here the clutch hydraulic drive is also tied, so according to their words, the fluid will also be needed to pump the clutch

keep within a liter, 700 grams must be well, plus a blemish ... a liter .... the coupling is swinging with 4 heels completely))))) 40 grams)))))

I'm an adherent of filling in normal liquid - that's why I poured Dexelia Ultra 5W-30 into the motor, a Motul Gear 300 box, and now I'm going to ATE Dot 4 or Motul too. Guys acquaintances change everything for me, I know them for a long time, they are adequate and swashbuckling therefore they cannot be called idiots))) Most likely they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they did not encounter the replacement of brakes in Mazda and somehow expressed that if only brakes to change 1 liter each was enough, but here the clutch hydraulic drive is also tied, so according to their words, the fluid will also be needed to pump the clutch

yes, I personally changed it myself, pumped it completely ... two liters is not needed really. If you don’t believe .. take a liter ... enough for the eyes!

and on drunk?))))))))

Thanks people. I'll take a liter of brakes and a bit of a hangover as solyaris77 advised

And what kind of brake is better to pour, 4 or 5.1, and is there a difference?) And the question is still this: how many liters are needed to change the oil in the manual transmission?

In the manual transmission, a week ago I changed for 2 liters of sports, I bought 3 liters of Motul. And I poured the brake DOT4.

On sports in a box of 4.04 liters .. brakes in the system 800 grams!

And what kind of brake is better to pour, 4 or 5.1, and is there a difference?) And the question is still this: how many liters are needed to change the oil in the manual transmission?

As far as I know, the difference in boiling point at 5.1 is higher, so if you often slow down it's probably better))

on sports in a box of 4.04 liters .. brakes in the system 800 grams!

Where did you get this figure? Maybe you meant 4.3L engine oil? Or am I missing something and go with a half-empty box?))))

Attached Images

the topic about brakes .. but still .. in any case, it is poured up to the control hole ...

I realized that about tormozuhu and the fact that no more than a liter, too, prompted me kind people on the forum. I just really didn’t understand where 4.04 liters came from in manual transmission if in manual 3. You don’t frighten me like that))))

Everything is clear about brakes. But not very much about the box. Why the heck then they wrote me 4L Motul for the box?

acquaintances called here ... asked between times .. said, like 3.04

I still did not understand about the difference between DOT 5 and DOT 4 fluids, can anyone tell me?)

and on the cover of DOT3 it is written .. pshm ??