Why the gas pedal UAZ patriot does not respond to pressing. Why the gas pedal UAZ patriot does not respond to pressing Gas pedal on the UAZ installation

The gas pedal on every car is an integral part, so without it it would be impossible to drive the vehicle. The gas or accelerator pedal is located in the passenger compartment in the far right corner. The UAZ Patriot SUV also has such an important detail that is worth paying attention to. After all, not only depends on the gas pedal: whether the car will drive or not, but also the nature of the engine's functioning. Why on the UAZ Patriot SUV the accelerator pedal may not respond, and also what this element is, we will find out in more detail.

The gas pedal is a device that regulates the supply of the fuel mixture to the cylinders, which contributes to the functioning of the internal combustion engine. On UAZ Patriot cars, electronic gas pedals are installed, which have significant differences from mechanical ones. The principle of operation for mechanics and electronics is the same, but only the first one functions due to a steel cable, and the second through a complex electronic system. Electronic gas pedals are installed on vehicles equipped with injection engines.

The electronic gas pedal has a special sensor located directly next to this device. The sensor is designed to be able to read information about how much the accelerator pedal was pressed. The read information instantly goes to the ECU, which controls the electric motor and the throttle device, including. With the help of the throttle mechanism, the supply of the fuel mixture to the cylinders is regulated.

The electronic gas pedal was invented in order to alleviate the fate of the driver when driving a vehicle. This innovation has many advantages and only one disadvantage - the complexity of the repair. To eliminate a malfunction that has arisen in the design of the device on the UAZ Patriot SUV, it is necessary to master the basics of electronics. What is the principle of operation of the electronic mechanism on the UAZ Patriot SUV, we will find out further.

So, in the design of the product there is a special mechanism with the help of which the exact reading of the angle of pressing on the device is carried out. Information is read using special sensors that transmit it to the ECU. Further, the main work is performed by the car's ECU, which, based on the information received, opens the throttle valve to the required position. In addition, the ECU is equipped with the ability to change the value of this angle independently. This is necessary in order to ensure safe and economical operation of the engine. Therefore, it should be noted that with the invention of a modern device, the fate of the driver has not practically diminished, but only made it easier.

Breakdowns and the need to replace the device

If the mechanical gas pedal failed occasionally, only when the cable was worn out, then the electronic one is a more vulnerable element. After all, not only electronics can fail, but also sensors located directly on the device.

When the device fails as a result of sensor malfunction, the already known Chek Engine inscription can be found on the instrument panel. In the event that only one sensor fails, the ECU automatically switches to standby mode. In this mode, when you press the pedal, there is a slow build-up of revolutions. If two control sensors fail, then the emergency mode is activated. In this case, the engine operates as an idle.

Disassembled pedal from a car with an Iveco engine

If the sensors fail at the same time, then the device should be replaced completely, since they are not repairable.
A malfunction of the electronic unit on the UAZ Patriot SUV can also provoke damage to the wiring or the accelerator. In the first case, it is necessary to find the place of damage and, if possible, eliminate it, and in the second, to replace the entire mechanism.

The gas pedal does not respond or how to fix the breakdown

On the UAZ Patriot SUV, such a problem often occurs when the engine does not respond to the accelerator pedal. If the device does not respond to pressing, then it is easy to conclude that it is out of order. The cause of such a malfunction is most likely a violation of the integrity of the tracks, which determine the angle of deflection of the mechanism. The photo below shows such tracks of the device.

In this case, there may not be a complete failure of the device, but only periodically. In such a situation, it is recommended to replace the pedal immediately. But in order to make sure that the matter is really in it, it is necessary to check it for serviceability. To determine the malfunction, you will need to use a multimeter, which should be connected to the terminals of the accelerator pedal. If the resistance changes when the angle of the device changes, then the part is serviceable. In the absence of resistance, as well as its sharp drops when the angle of the device is changed, it can be concluded that the pedal is malfunctioning.

In rare cases, a malfunction of the mechanism on the UAZ Patriot SUV can be triggered by damaged wiring or broken contact. The situation can be corrected by replacing the supply wiring. If after inspection it turns out that the mechanism is working properly, but the problem still does not disappear, you need to pay attention to checking the throttle actuator.

When the gas pedal reacts late when pressed, the problem can be solved by installing a special SPUR. A spur is an electronic device that allows you to improve the dynamics of acceleration and reduce the effect of delay in the response of the gas pedal. The spur is shown in the photo below.

This device is installed directly between the pedal connectors and the electronic control unit. Such an element does not have a negative effect and does not disrupt the operation of the engine, therefore it is often installed as soon as problems with a delayed reaction of the part in question are noticed.

This happened especially often in govans, when the damper froze open and the engine was terribly twisted. I had to frantically pick the pedal with my foot. As a result, I decided to replace the traction system and cable drive.

For the alteration, a sector, a cable, a pedal and a cable bracket were needed. Initially, I bought a sector from VAZ2108, from Solex, but its bore "in principle" did not fit the axis of the K126U carburetor.

I found a sector from the Volga, it cost 50 rubles. The sector is plastic, there is a ready-made hole with flats in it, it fits perfectly without alterations. The truth is still very confused by its position on the axis - the cable looks as if upward, I do not think that this is a regular position. He took the cable from the VAZ2108, the pedal from the gazelle. I found the bracket in KEMP, it says: "cable bracket for UAZ 421". The bracket is attached to the carburetor nuts. True, it had to be cut a little in the center - it rested against the ribs of the carburetor.

Most of the work is with installing a new pedal. To begin with, I had to remove the old one, which is riveted with 3 rivets to the body. The grinder and the chisel did their job. I figured out the place of installation of the pedal - the upper hole of the pedal stood on the upper right hole of the rivet, the lower hole drilled a new one. Then I drilled a hole along the cable, widened it with a round file. I installed the pedal on 2 bolts, attached the cable, tried it. With this fastening, even with the cable adjustment completely unscrewed, the pedal rests on the floor, and the 2nd chamber does not open. I had to make a spacer and a piece of a 20x40 rectangular profile. After that, everything is fine. True, it is imperative to place emphasis under the pedal, otherwise, in the heat of excitement, you can break the cable.
He took off the old cravings with the whole mechanism so as not to make unnecessary sounds. I also had to work with a grinder, cutting the bar-axis. Unfortunately, now it will not be possible to use a manual gas drive, although I have never (except warming up) used it.
I tried it on the go. Super! The car is tearing up. Didn't expect the result. True, it does not discharge gas well, it is necessary to put an additional spring on the return of the sector. In general, I am very pleased with the rework, I spent 1.5 hours.

Another standard UAZ sadness is how the engineers managed to connect the "gas trap" to the carburetor. Here is a picture of this pull-lever-shaft-push design.

As you can easily see from the picture, it contains 20 elements. Okay, the lever on the carburetor itself, four nuts, the enrichment drive (aka suction) and manual gas are not counted.

But the other 11 have 9 points of conjugation with each other, each has a backlash, plus a spring has been added there ... It's a complete ATAS!

If you look at how the drive is made in Zhiga-2108, then with all the bolts, washers, nuts and even a rubber pad on the pedal, we have 14 elements. And if you fold the small things, there are ONLY FOUR parts: the pedal, the cable, the bracket for attaching the cable jacket to the carburetor and the "sector" of the damper drive. Fine?

It is worth noting that virtually the entire scoop-auto-industrial suffered from a similar complexity of the drive. And finally it is not clear why it was necessary to give birth to such a mechanical gibberish that does not give a clear mechanical connection. Now, in fact, on every forum of shovel-auto-lovers there are hundreds of photos and video reports on the installation of the cable. With a normal setup, the difference is fantastic. What is a Normal Installation? And everything is simple: the cable should be lubricated and should not be laid with bends along small radii (R<10см).

In my case, it was more and more neglected, since the previous owner of the UAZ made the decision to mount a brand new OZON instead of the native carburetor. Honestly, I have to thank him for choosing a carburetor. But what was his miscalculation so it was in the desire to mate OZONE and home drive. Without going into details, there are two pedal positions: idle and full throttle. The intermediate positions were extremely difficult to catch because of the spring number 7 (see the picture above).

At first, attempts were made to achieve tolerable operation of the standard drive, but they did not radically change anything. The conclusion became obvious. Only the cable will solve the problem. Of course, I wanted to go to the car market and buy factory components. But in the market, a man selling near-carburetor trifles just threw up his hands. There are no supplies from Russia to Kharkiv due to the political turmoil of recent months. And the man has not yet got the hang of transporting directly from Rashi ...

Therefore, without hesitation, I took a shirt from a motorcycle comrade and a burst clutch cable. I rummaged around in boxes and bags with fasteners. I applied a little imagination and after spending a couple of days gave birth to a fully efficient collective farm.

Take three washers and two sets of screw / washer / M3 nut. After finishing with drills and a file, we get the following result:

We collect it up to a heap and get a kind of coil mated with the standard drive of the OZON carburetor damper.

I admit that the process of attaching to the carburetor is a little stressful. First, a standard drive flag is put on the axle. On top of it is a large washer (1) with a small hole. Then the flag fastening nut is screwed onto the thread lock.

Now the saddest thing. Insert two M3 screws into the large washer (1) from the carburetor side. The two remaining washers are put on them: the thick central one (2) and the second thin one (3). The whole package is pulled together by screwing M3 nuts onto the screws.

Yes, while I collected everything I had to puff and scold the one who invented this Kama Sutra. But for the first option it is quite tolerable. The Kamasutra can be avoided by enlarging the central holes of the two outermost washers (2,3). Then the nut on the damper drive axis can be screwed in with the head when the package is assembled. Then it will be possible to abandon the M3 screws and assemble a package of washers by welding.

The end of the cable is held along the spool under the spherical pin and squeezed over it with the M6 washer is fixed against jumping out. I will not say that it is very elegant, but it is durable, cheap and angry.

The second question is to fix the cable jacket on the carburetor body. The usual galvanized fasteners and furniture corner went into business.

I welded a wide M8 washer perpendicular to the plane of the M8 bolt hat. With a file, I removed part of the washer that prevented it from being pulled to the carb body.
A short M8 bolt drilled lengthwise under the cable diameter + 0.5mm. I drilled a groove in his hat for a shirt. Two washers and two nuts keep a piece of furniture corner cleverly bent around the bolt from turning.

Well, the work under the hood has been completed. A small test for getting positive emotions from the fact that it all functions. We hold the shirt with our hand, pull the cable and contemplate how the coil turns. Cool!

Now it remains to find the optimal path for laying the cable and organize the pulling of the cable from the shirt on the side of the pedal. I really didn't want to drill an additional hole in the engine shield. But alas, I had to. Otherwise, either the radius is small, or the path is too long through the line already heavily clogged with wiring.

Again, we figure out what to fix where, take measurements and from whatever we can prepare parts.

The first one born from a piece of sheet steel with a thickness of 2 mm was the bracket for fastening the shirt. The attachment point on the body is one of the bolts holding the rubber band sealing the gap between the steering column and the engine compartment shield. The shirt is held by a crap-like bracket made of the upper bracket of the pipe fixing bracket.

The end of the cable was fixed to the pedal with a small corner concocted from scraps of a furniture corner that attaches the shirt to the carburetor.

The final chord before the test was pouring the test into the cable jacket. Now everything squeezes smoothly, everything turns. The beauty!

P.S. Of course, this is all just a prototype that was needed to experience the difference between the two approaches in practice. Over time, something will be replaced, something is modified. But definitely, the standard drive will never return to its place.

The kinematic scheme used on the UAZ was my first disappointment when I first sat behind the wheel of this beautiful car. I realized that at the first opportunity I just have to make the carburetor throttle drive humanly.

I came to the conclusion that the following would be the best solution:
- Pedal from the Gazelle;
- Throttle cable from VAZ-08;
- Bracket for the cable sheath from M-2141.
I have a carburetor K-151S, so there was no question of the sector.

On the way home from work, I drove into the store and bought a pedal (95 rubles) with a cable (50 rubles). There was no bracket. The next day, in the morning, I went to the car market to look for this bracket. The market was used up and down, but absolutely to no avail. Most sellers of spare parts for the M-2141 said that it was almost impossible to find such a thing ... There was a second way out - a cover from a Gazelle. After thinking a little and weighing whether I should invent the bracket myself (in the image of Moskvichevsky for carb or Gazelievsky for a valve cover) or just buy a cover, I decided in favor of the second option. As a result, 250 rubles were added to the project budget. behind the cover. After completing the shopping, I went to the garage.

First of all, with great pleasure, I took off the "spoon" that I had bothered with pain in the joints of my right leg. Fitting the Gazelle pedal under the lower right bolt of the steering column cover made me think about how to put it in the upper opening of the pedal bracket or in the lower one. If attached to the upper one, then the pedal goes too deep under the brake pedal and touches the bracket of the "spoon", under the lower one - the pedal becomes too deep, but practically above the place where the "spoon" was. I decided to fix it to the bottom and check the convenience of such an installation during operation.

I cut a groove for the cable in the valve cover bracket to make it easier to install / remove the cable. I installed the cover.

As a place for the cable entry into the salon, I decided to use a hole obtained as a result of breaking out of the front panel of the lower variator mounting nut, after its corresponding finishing with a large drill and a round file.

I cut down the standard mount to the gas pedal from the cable, removed the rubber and plastic stops of the shell and cut off a little less than half from the cable shell. I put two ordinary washers and two spring washers on the threaded part. On the pedal lever in the standard hole, I cut an M6 thread and screwed in a bolt.

I fixed the cable on the carburetor sector, on the valve cover, installed the plastic and rubber shell stops and pushed the end of the cable into the cabin. Approximately, by eye, I fixed the cable on the pedal bolt between two thick washers with a diameter of about 20 mm.

It was already evening and I decided to go home in this "beta" version to evaluate all the pros and cons of the design on the fly. The first feeling I experienced was delight. Light effort on the pedals, accurate gas metering, all the pluses are available. There were two drawbacks: the pedal was very deep and, unaccustomed, it was inconvenient to move your foot from it to the brake pedal and there was no idle (the revs were about 1200), although the cable was not taut. Naturally, the throttles did not open fully.

The next day I decided to bring the design to mind. The first step was to dismantle the structure and shorten the cable still, leaving the shell with a slight excess in length so that there were no unnecessary bends, but there was enough length to compensate for engine vibration. Modified the engine shield hole, bending the edges of the hole so that the shell stop in the engine compartment was at a slight upward angle. The diameter of the hole was made so that the rubber stop went there extremely tightly (I hammered it with a hammer). The idle ones disappeared due to the fact that I did not disconnect the throttle drive levers from the carb sector, they did not allow the throttle to return. The manual gas had to be sacrificed and the traction was turned off from the carb. A drop of engine oil smeared the cable. I mounted the cable on the cover and the carburetor. The plastic stop of the cable sheath was screwed onto the sheath (with the pliers, you need to slightly squeeze the last turn of the shell) and, having lubricated with soap, inserted it into the rubber stop, thereby the rubber stop crashed into the metal of the shield and fixed conscientiously.

The assistant opened both chokes of the carburetor completely, at this time I fixed the cable on the pressed pedal, adjusted it more precisely using the standard method. I cut off the excess cable, leaving a stock of 10 centimeters. The pedal got much higher and more comfortable, but still I had to lower the brake pedal a little by twisting the adjustment on the stem all the way. The drive test showed that all the alterations were justified by 100% and, apart from delight, no other emotions were revealed.

I left the standard design in place ... just in case :)

Acknowledgments: NivАndy, Adver, V (ery) B (ad) 31512, Cyril_69.