How to understand that you need to change the timing chain. When do you need to change the timing chain on Skoda and what changes with it? Installing a new part and the process of marking the chain of the mechanism in the video

From time to time, any mechanism of the car breaks down, as a result of which an urgent replacement is required. In the case of a chain (belt) of the gas distribution mechanism, it is very undesirable to take it to extremes, since in many cases the rupture of this element can easily lead to the need for overhaul of the power unit of the vehicle. The fact is that the timing chain keeps the pistons and engine valves from meeting, and if this barrier disappears, then the impact will lead to deformation of the parts, which, of course, will disrupt the operation of the entire system. After a circuit break, it is very difficult to restore a car engine, and in some cases it is simply impossible. Therefore, you should be aware of the signs of the approach of this moment and about the features of the replacement of the part.

1. When you need to replace the timing chain

The chain (or belt) of the gas distribution mechanism of any car is a kind of connection between and, which are responsible for the operation of the valves. Once popular and forgotten for a while, today it is in the lead over the belt option, since it combines all the best qualities of a gear and belt drive:

- reliability and relatively high wear resistance;

Working noiselessness;

Resistant to sudden temperature changes.

True, there are also disadvantages, which are expressed in strong stretching. So, after some time, the chain itself, and the gears on which it is pulled, can wear out, which will significantly affect the operation of the power unit (and its repair is a very expensive service). At some point, you will need to replace the chain, with which, if available necessary tools, car manuals and a stock of patience, you can handle it yourself.

Most manufacturers do not indicate the exact timing of the replacement of the chain (which cannot be said about timing belts), and its condition has to be recognized by its characteristic symptoms. Often, severe wear is manifested in increased noise and valve timing.(determined using a special diagnostic computer). However, experienced minders can easily recognize a malfunction by other manifestations. For example, individual powertrains allow you to assess the condition timing chains at the outlet of the tensioner rod.

It is also possible (and necessary) to carry out a preventive inspection after 100,000 kilometers, and the need for replacement is determined by the chain tension. More details can be seen in phases. If the bearing housing mark does not match the sprocket mark, or if the bushings are chipped, immediate replacement is required.

2. The process of replacing the timing chain

At first glance, in carrying out self replacement timing chain is no big deal: you just need to remove the old part and install a new one. But in practice, everything is far from simple. The main point to which you should pay attention is the exact coincidence of the marks, otherwise the slightest displacement of them can easily cause a breakdown of the car engine. Therefore, when performing the replacement yourself, try to strictly follow the operating instructions in order to avoid the possibility of damage to the parts of the power unit and more serious problems with the vehicle. However, a complete lack of knowledge and skills in the field of auto repair can lead to sad consequences.

Those motorists who nevertheless decide to take a risk and replace the timing chain on their own, you need to know the algorithm of actions and have an appropriate set of tools. So, as for the latter, for a high-quality replacement procedure, you will need:

- a set of wrenches and socket wrenches (heads);

Torque wrench (camshaft retainer);

Crankshaft puller and gear puller;

Screwdriwer set;

A set of oil seals;

Hammer and punch;

Light strobe;

Silicone sealant;

Lubricating fluid / oil;

Timing chain cover gasket;

New timing chain and gears;

Degreasing agent for the engine;

Capacity for draining liquid;

The chain replacement itself consists of two interconnected parts: disassembling the engine and reassembling it, of course, with new parts.

Dismantling the engine includes the following steps:

1. First, find the manual for the machine (you will need it to disassemble and reassemble various parts).

2. Then thoroughly clean the engine with a degreaser and determine the ignition order of your car.

3. Also make sure that the first cylinder is raised (pull out the spark plug and insert a screwdriver into the hole, the piston should be near the screwdriver head).

4. Disconnect the vehicle battery cables and remove the radiator cap (just make sure it is not hot first).

5. Drain the antifreeze into a container prepared in advance and remove the radiator hoses.

7. Remove fan and water pump;

8. Remove the timing chain cover;

9. Find the mark on the old chain and the same mark on the cog.

10. Crank the engine until the marks line up.

11. Re-mark both chains (scratch with a screwdriver).

12. Dismantle the chain after loosening the gear mechanism.

This completes the first part of the work on replacing the timing chain and you can proceed to the second - assembling the engine.

The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

1. First, before installing a new chain, lubricate lubricating fluid(oil) gears.

2. Place the part on the gears, aligning them with the marks.

3. Install the appropriate bolts on the camshaft gears and tighten them according to the requirements described in the vehicle owner's manual.

4. Knock out the crankshaft oil seal using a punch and hammer.

5. Install a new oil seal in the timing cover.

6. Lubricate the oil seal with oil.

7. Reinstall the timing chain cover.

8. Install the water and fuel pumps, fan and fan clamps.

9. In accordance with the requirements of the technical documentation, fill the radiator with coolant.

10. Connect all hoses and chains.

11. Connect the battery.

12. Start the car engine.

13. Check for any drips or leaks.

14. Check the timing of the gas distribution mechanism using a light strobe (gives light pulses per unit of time).

3. Difficulties when replacing the timing chain

When installing a new timing chain, it is important to tighten it correctly, as too little tension will lead to its sagging, which means there is a possibility of skipping and damage to engine parts. An overly tensioned chain can simply not withstand the pressure and break from excessive tension. In general, if you really decide to cope with the task yourself, then do it very carefully, and if any problems arise, it is better to immediately contact an experienced mechanic, otherwise "self-medication" can lead to more complex breakdowns and large material expenditures ...

Note! Before moving on to direct action, make sure you have exactly what it takes to get the job done well. Improvised means are not suitable for this, since they do not exclude the possibility of slippage and injury from the use of unsuitable instruments. Always handle hot parts, sharp or other hazardous materials with extreme care.

Work on a level, clean surface while maintaining vehicle not only with the help of a jack, but also with additional supports. The option of working on an unreliable and non-rigid surface should be completely ruled out. Never leave radiator antifreeze in an open container and unattended, as it is poisonous and dangerous to people and animals. All such liquids should be stored only in special, tightly closed containers.

A typical seller's text is a car with a timing chain drive, looks like this: “This is a chain, not a belt. This means that there is no need to waste time and money on replacing the timing belt ”. Many buyers fall for this trick. Ultimately, the chain is broken and the engine needs a major overhaul. Remember: the era of chains capable of serving more than a million kilometers is long over with the old Mercedes!

A broken timing belt is a serious accident, but in most cases there is hope to save the engine. A similar situation with the timing chain can end up much worse. The chain is much more massive than the belt, and in the event of a break, as a rule, the engine “tears and tosses”, “taking with it” whole pieces of metal. In addition, pistons and valves are severely damaged. Very rarely, after breaking the timing chain, the engine can be reanimated with little blood.

It's all about the oil

The estimated resource of the modern chain is at least 200-250 thousand km. However, it often does not last that long. Cases of chain breakage at a mileage of 100,000 km, and even 60,000 km, are widely known. The fact that this only happens with certain car models suggests a birth defect. Moreover, not always a "catastrophe" occurs due to poor-quality manufacture of the chain and tensioner. Sometimes the problem is caused by a lack of lubrication. A similar thing happened with the first gasoline engines Peugeot-Citroen 1.6 THP (Euro 4) and a 2-liter diesel engine BMW (BMW 3 E90, 320d N47).

So, non-compliance with the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the amount, type of oil and replacement intervals greatly increases the likelihood of a malfunction. Do not forget that almost every chain is held in tension by a tensioner, the efficiency of which directly depends on the pressure in the smear system. A typical example is the Fiat 1.3 Multijet turbodiesel, which is used in Opel models with 1.3 CDTI. With frequent movements in urban areas, the oil level drops dramatically. If this is not noticed in time, then the pressure in the system begins to decrease, and, consequently, the tension of the chain.

But, of course, it is not without errors in the design of the structure of the chains and tensioners themselves. A striking example is gasoline engines concern VW 1.4 TSI and 1.2 TSI.

Timing and symptoms

Most manufacturers do not specify strict timing for timing chain replacement, as is the case with timing belts. Chain wear is determined by symptoms. As a rule, this is increased noise and a shift in valve timing (detected using a diagnostic computer). Good mechanics can easily spot a problem. Some motors allow you to assess the condition of the chain from the output of the tensioner rod.

When buying a used car with a timing chain drive, the monitoring of the chain condition should be entrusted to a mechanic. Unlike engines with a belt, you should not be guided by the "just in case" replacement rule. If an inspection reveals the need to replace the chain, then you will have to prepare from 500 to several thousand dollars. This is a serious reason to bargain with a car dealer in the secondary market. In any case, the replacement should not be delayed.

When operating a car with a timing chain drive, you should be pedantry in matters related to engine oil. It is imperative that only high-quality oil be used. Regular replacement is another important element of care not only for the engine, but also for the timing chain drive. As a rule, the lubricant should be changed at least once every 15,000 km. If the car is operated mainly in urban driving conditions (frequent starts, a large proportion of the time spent on Idling), then it is better to reduce the replacement interval to 10,000 km.

It is necessary to pay attention to unusual sounds (noise, knocking), especially appearing immediately after starting or during prolonged idling. Having found the characteristic signs of "malaise", it is worth visiting a car service. Perhaps these are the first symptoms of a malfunctioning timing drive that cannot be ignored.

Two ways to place the timing chain in the engine

In engine construction, two types of timing drive arrangement are used. Let's call them forward and backward. "Forward" when the timing belt is located on the same side as the ancillary drive belt. "Rear", when the timing drive is located on the flywheel and gearbox side. Typically, manufacturers use a front-mounted timing drive, as it makes it easier to access and repair the system. However, for several years, companies such as Audi and BMW have been practicing placing the timing drive on the rear of the engine: Audi A6 C6 3.0 TDI, BMW 320d E90 (N47), BMW 530 F10. This significantly complicates the maintenance of the timing. Fortunately, such bold solutions are only used in some timing chain motors, and never used in timing belt engines.

Timing chain wear symptoms

Rough and uneven idling (the result of a change in valve timing);

Chirping and rustling - especially at idle, when the oil pressure is very low;

Maximum tensioner output (visible after removing the cover);

Sprocket teeth wear (visible after removing the cover);

Corresponding parameters taken from the phase sensor (using a diagnostic tester).

What you need to know about timing chain drive

In most new cars, the chain life is shorter than the engine life;

Pay attention to unusual noises, especially after startup;

Avoid prolonging the oil change period - the more often the better;

Normal oil pressure ensures that the chain tensioner works;

If you change the chain, then be sure to replace the gears (sprockets) and guides - they also wear out;

When replacing, use original components or quality substitutes. Component manufacturers such as Febi, Ruville, SWAG have proven themselves quite well.

Reliable and unreliable timing chain drives

However, manufacturers still produce cars with a timing chain that can last the entire life of the engine. As a rule, problems with such timing do not arise for several hundred thousand kilometers. However, this does not relieve the owner of the responsibility to regularly check the condition of the timing chain drive.

Cars with durable timing chain: Ford Mondeo 1.8 TDCi, Mercedes C 200 CDI W202, Mercedes W124, Toyota Yaris 1.4 D-4D.

Cars with a short-lived timing chain: Audi A8 3.0 TDI (D3), Mazda CX-7 2.3 Turbo, Skoda Fabia 1.2 TSI, BMW 118d (N47), Peugeot 207 1.6 THP, VW Golf V 1.4 TSI.

- at what mileage to check the condition of the timing chain,
- what are the ways to check,
- symptoms and signs of chain stretching,
- what will happen if you do not change the chain in time,
- how to find out which tensioner is worth - a new or old model,
- how much does it cost to replace the timing chain - OD and regular service,
- is it true that you can ride up to 300 thousand without replacing the timing.

Checking the condition of the chain at 1.8 - 1.4 timing is carried out when the mileage * 60,000 km or 4 years of operation is reached.
* 60 thousand if the tensioner is of the old model.
* 80 thousand if the tensioner is new.

The chain is replaced according to the condition of the tensioner.
As practice shows, usually it is 90,000 km - a maximum of 120,000 km.
On my Skoda / 1.8 tsi / I checked for the first time for 80 thousand.
As a result, the replacement took place for 100 kopecks.

You can check as programmatically -

So visually (only 1.8 tsi) - there is no window on 1.4 motors.
This method is more reliable and shows the real state.

Look at the number of grooves.

More than 6 - replacement. New sample.
More than 4 - old model.

Replacing the timing chain - OD costs from 40-45 thousand.
Regular service - 23 -28 rubles. / MSK /

SIGNS OF SYMPTOMS

A characteristic knock when starting under the hood in the engine area for about a couple of seconds.

In case of a critical state of the timing mechanism, an indication appears on dashboard type CHECK ENGINE, the car engine stops working correctly, the following messages are recorded in the engine control unit: / infa from the audi club /

What happens if you don't make a replacement on time?

The answer to this question is quite simple: chain jump, damage to the block head. The degree of damage depends on many factors, for example, at what speed and what rpm it occurs and varies from bending valves to tearing off the valve disc and destruction of the cylinder block.

How to find out which tensioner is on your Skoda - old or new

According to TPI 2025206/6, the new tensioner has been installed on cars since March 2012 starting with the engine number:

CAW_135390
CBF_106200
CCT_289558
CCZ_224768
CDA_307430

Myths about 300 thousand mileage, and the timing has never changed

On the internet, you can find a lot of information with approximately the following content:

Operation: 90% of the track;
Mileage: 300;
DSG works;
Didn't change the chain;
or

370000 a chain native no one climbed into the motor).

Now, I'll write it as it is.
This screenshot, from many Skodovodam known not only on the drive, SUSLIKRUS.
As a master of our motors, he gets a decent amount of messages on the topic of motor repair.
One of which he posted on his blog.

Those in the know know: replacing the timing belt by 1.8 occurs at 100-110 mileage.

Already at a run of 30-50 thousand, if you take care of the car, you need to monitor the condition of the chain, or rather, check the tensioner. Based on how many teeth have come out, you need to take measurements visually, and not programmatically.

No 300 thousand mileage, 350 - 400, etc. that the timing belt would never change - this cannot be!

P.S. Post for beginners and for those who have brains.

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During a cold start, the engine emits a suspicious metallic "growl" for several seconds? In 90% of cases, this is caused by a problem with the timing chain. It is necessary to check its condition and, if something is wrong, replace the component. If you do not carry out the replacement in time, you will have to spend a lot of money on repairs in the future.

What is a timing chain and is it subject to wear

One of the main elements of the engine gas distribution mechanism is a special belt, which ensures the well-coordinated operation of each component of this part of the car. Many machines use a chain instead of a belt. Thanks to it, the engine mechanisms rotate synchronously and function normally for a long time.

The chain runs whenever the engine is running. The load is high enough that the part gradually wears out and fails over time. Sometimes the chain just stretches. Sometimes a tooth flies off from it, which leads to slippage. Even the smallest damage will result in out-of-sync components and increase the risk of damage to engine valves. If the problem is not corrected in time, the camshaft may also break. It will be necessary to change both it and the cylinder block gasket, which is expensive.

How to understand what needs to be changed: the frequency according to the regulations

Many auto manufacturers say the chain is designed to last the entire life of the car. Alas, this is only true when using the machine in ideal conditions. Longitudinal vibrations at high speeds cause excessive tension on the component and subsequent fracture.

Usually this part needs to be replaced every 100,000 km. If there is a knock and a metallic rumble while driving, it means that the chain is stretched and slips. If such signs occur, replacement is required immediately! Also, a decrease in engine power, a thick gray exhaust, loud noises in the muffler, a sudden increase in engine temperature for no apparent reason are possible - it is by these signs, which most often appear not alone, but together, that one can easily determine the wear of an element.

Have you bought any used car? Be sure to inspect the chain, even if the owner says he recently changed it.

In some cars, in case of problems with the gas distribution mechanism, a special indicator lights up on the dashboard. If the chain is not replaced in a timely manner, it will jump and damage the block head. Further events depend on many factors. In the best case, the valves are simply bent. In the worst case, their constituent elements are torn and the cylinder block becomes unusable.

How to choose the right spare part

Timing chains are single-row and double-row. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

When installing a single-row version, the engine power increases slightly, the noise level decreases. The fact is that it is easier for the power unit to scroll one row of the chain than two.
The double-row chain leads to an increase in the noise level while driving, but it is much more reliable. Such a product is designed for a long service life.

Chains are subdivided into several types according to the number of links. The choice depends on the make of the car and the characteristics of the engine used in it. So, in VAZ 2101 and 2102 cars and other cars with an engine displacement of 1.2 and 1.3 liters, models with 114 links are used. A 116-link chain will come in handy for the owner of a car with an engine capacity of 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 liters (these are VAZ 2103, 2107 and Niva). It is better to check the exact information on the suitable kit in the documentation for the vehicle.

DIY component replacement

Want to save money? The chain can be easily replaced with your own hands. However, this task is not an easy one, so it is better for a beginner not to take on it. Prepare to spend at least 3-4 hours. You also need to prepare a place and a set of tools in advance.

Consider the process of replacing a chain using an example Nissan almera N16 Classic.

Platform and tools

It is advisable to carry out the work where there is a lift, overpass or pit. Prepare the following tools:

hex key 6;
socket heads in sizes 12, 13 and 14;
chisel and hammer;
a clean cloth to wipe off;
containers into which technical fluids will need to be drained;
adjustable and torque wrenches;
block of wood;
sealant and "anti-silicone" (degreaser);
and, of course, a new chain.

External signs of timing failure and their causes are presented below.

A metallic knock is heard in the cylinder head at low and medium engine speeds. Reduced engine power. Such malfunctions occur due to a violation of the thermal clearance of the valves and wear of the bearings and "cams" of the shaft, which has the function of the distributor.
The metallic knock on the cylinder head comes from a cold engine. In this case, the engine power is also reduced. This occurs due to a malfunction of the hydraulic lifters.
Noise is heard in the area of the camshaft drive. Pops are heard in the muffler. Look for the cause either in the wear of the drive chain or in the wear of the toothed pulley of the drive.
The exhaust gases discharged have an uncharacteristic blue tint. The oil level in the crankcase is low. Engine power reduced. This is due to wear on the valve stems, valve stems and guide bushings. The reason may also lie in damage.
Ringing metallic sounds are heard when the vehicle is accelerating. The engine runs intermittently. This is due to the formation and settling of carbon deposits on the valves, a malfunction of the crank mechanism and the use of fuel of dubious quality.
Short-term dips occur in the operation of a cold engine. The engine power is reduced. The engine overheats very quickly and severely. The reason is a decrease in elasticity, breakage and hanging of the valves.

The most serious timing problem is valve sticking. This often leads to damage to the entire engine. Fortunately, this malfunction in modern cars taken into account and is quite rare.

Hydraulic lifters malfunctions deserve a separate topic. If you use too thin or dirty thick oil, the hydraulic lifter stops eliminating the timing gaps. This leads to jamming of hydraulic lifters.

A violation of the thermal clearance on motors with adjustable clearance can occur not only due to wear on the bearings, but also due to incorrect adjustment of the clearance.

Diagnosis of timing faults is difficult due to the similarity of their symptoms. Diagnostics is most often carried out by removing the cylinder head cover and inspecting the structural elements.

An open timing chain turned into a real horror story for drivers. This is especially common for beginners. It is no secret that the timing belt, like most car parts, has a finite resource of use. After the exhaustion of the resource, the timing must be replaced.

As for the consequences of breaking the timing chain, then it all depends on the design of the power unit. When the engine is running, the pistons in it continuously move up or down from one dead center to another. During the fuel and air intake stroke, the piston moves to bottom dead center and opens the intake valve. When the release occurs, the piston is already moving towards top dead center. And when he reaches it, all the valves must be completely closed.

When the timing chain breaks, the camshaft stops rotating, and the valves stop in the position in which they were overtaken by a chain break. The crankshaft in the engine continues to rotate and the pistons are directed towards the open valves. In some engines, it is possible to avoid contact of the pistons with the valves by means of special recesses. In this case, the consequences will be limited to immobilizing the vehicle. But there are situations that are much worse.

Modern engines often have multiple valves. They were designed with the aim of developing maximum power, therefore, piston recesses are not provided. When the pistons meet with the valves, the latter bend and fail. Breakage of all valves at once can be avoided if the timing chain breaks by idle... When driving at high speed, the entire set will need to be replaced after a break. At high speeds, the valve guides can also burst, which can even lead to a replacement of the cylinder block. Twin-shaft engines are generally more susceptible to such severe damage.

So, as a result of breaking the timing chain, we have a domino effect. First, the valves are bent, then the camshaft collapses along with the bearings, then the block head fails, and at the end - the bending of the connecting rods and pushers.

Timing chain service life

The timing chain resource is not at all infinite and has a very specific time frame. It has been established that the average service life of the timing chain is from two hundred to four hundred thousand kilometers of a car's mileage. The numbers are highly dependent on the driving style of the car. If the driving style is aggressive or the vehicle is frequently driven on poor road surfaces, the service life can be significantly reduced. It was also found that the double-row chains of new Japanese and German cars are capable of maintaining strength for 400-500 thousand kilometers.

Replacing the timing chain

There are single-row and double-row timing chains. Both types have advantages and disadvantages. The single strand chain adds some power to the engine and helps reduce noise. The double-row chain is more noisy, but it is also more reliable. The number of links also plays an important role. If you install a new chain on an old VAZ-2102 with power unit volume up to 1.3 liters, then the chain will have 114 links. For later VAZ models, the chain will have 116 or more links. And so on, as volumes increase.

When choosing a chain, it is worth considering a number of other factors:

Purchase timing chains only from authorized sales representatives, avoiding all sorts of parts dealers.
The timing chain is not a part worth saving on. Between cost and reliability, unambiguously choose the latter.
Carefully inspect the purchased chain for factory defects. Defect can manifest itself in backlash between links, folds, the presence of small debris in the chain tensioner, etc.

To replace and tension the timing chain yourself, you need the following tools:

6 mm hex wrench;
heads with 12, 13, 14 faces;
chisel and small hammer;
rags;
buckets for liquids;
torque wrench;
adjustable wrench;
wooden block;
degreaser and sealant;
the chain itself.

Removing the chain

Before installing a new timing chain, you must carefully remove the old one. In some cases, removal of the top engine cover is required. Dismantling begins with removing and unscrewing the ignition coils of the wires. Next, the air hoses are removed from the valve cover, and then the right engine mount. The plug is unscrewed and engine oil drains into prepared buckets. The oil must be completely drained and the filter removed. Then the antifreeze is drained from the radiator in the same way. Then the radiator is dismantled, the clamp of the inlet pipe and the generator drive belt are removed.

Next, you should proceed to dismantle the cylinder head. Its cover is fixed with four screws. The screws are unscrewed and the fan is removed. The engine pan is unscrewed (for this, remove the muffler) and the screws that secure the pump pulley are loosened. There is a place between the side of the crankcase and the crankshaft. A wooden block is placed here. Then the crankshaft pulley is removed, and then the pump pulley. There is a gasket under this pulley, which must also be removed. The oil pump is also temporarily dismantled. Further, the chain is dismantled directly.

To begin with, the chain damper is removed. Then the tensioner and bar are removed. Next, the lower bar is put on the pin and the chain is removed. The lower gear is removed with a screwdriver. Once removed, you can compare the new and old chains: the first chain should be slightly longer.

Installing a new chain

Before installing a new chain, it must be thoroughly lubricated with oil. The assembly process is repeated in reverse order. All parts are cleaned. Use a rag and degreaser to clean the side of the engine. The mark on the chain to be installed must match the markings on the pulleys.

After installation, the side of the engine is lubricated with sealant, then the bolts are tightened to secure the cover. Wait for the sealant to dry and carry out all reassembly.

Chain tension adjustment

This process is necessary in order to partially eliminate the excess noise.

When making adjustments, it is important not to leave dents or scratches into which dirt can then clog. To avoid this, make or buy a lightweight rug and place it on the fenders of your car before starting work.

To adjust, you will need: a starting handle, a wrench for the chain tensioner fixing nut and pliers.

The adjustment is carried out as follows:

Use a 13 mm wrench to loosen the tensioner cap nut.
With the help of the starting handle, the crankshaft turns one and a half turns. By loosening the lock nut, the tensioner springs acting on the cured rubber shoe will automatically set the correct chain tension through the plunger. The car must be installed on a level surface that is convenient for work, and the wheels must be fixed with stops. The gearshift lever must be in neutral. Next, the chain is adjusted.
The fixing nut is tightened.
The starting handle is removed.

Quite often, the noise of the camshaft drive chain is especially pronounced at low engine speeds. In this case, the adjustment operation needs to be repeated.

What do you need to know when replacing the timing chain?

Replacing the timing chain is a responsible process. As a rule, in engines with a timing chain drive, the location of the chain drive can be front or rear. In the first case, the drive is installed on the side where the drive element is located. In the second, the drive is located on the side of the gearbox. The front-mounted chain drive is most often found on cars, since the repair and maintenance of such a drive is much easier.

According to manufacturers, the drive element most often ruptures as a result of non-compliance with the conditions that are prescribed in the car's manual. The timing chain is directly connected to the tensioner. The tensioner may fail if poor quality engine oil is used. Its service life also depends on the pressure in the lubrication system. Over time, the pressure in this system will decrease and the chain will not be tensioned correctly. There is also a tension adjustment for this.