GAZ-53 GAZ-3307 GAZ-66

The idle speed drops. The engine speed does not fall at idle speed The engine speed drops sharply when driving

During the operation of the car, drivers have to face various problems. One of the faults, which is quite widespread, is the constant maintenance of high revs by the engine. That is, even at idle speed, the engine speed does not drop. Such a problem can be observed in both injection and carburetor engines, but the reasons for this will be different. Within the framework of this article, we will consider which malfunction is a symptom of this problem, and how you can get rid of it.

Table of contents:

How to diagnose that idle speed is not falling


Even an inexperienced driver can easily notice that the idle speed of the car does not drop. This is easy to determine by ear, since, as you know, the lower the rpm, the quieter the engine runs. In addition, if the car is equipped with a tachometer, it can be used to determine the number of revolutions per minute at a particular time.

Depending on which engine is installed in the vehicle, the idle speed may vary. On average, it is generally accepted that the engine is operating normally when idling is between 650 and 950 rpm. If the revs are higher (unless otherwise stated in the technical passport for the car), then this can be called a deviation.

Please note: On most vehicles with injection engines, the Check Engine light on the dashboard comes on at high idle speed.

What are the risks of high idle speed

The first thing a driver should keep in mind is the high fuel consumption at high revs. Accordingly, if high revs are maintained at idle, this means that part of the fuel "flies into the pipe". Moreover, this problem directly affects the engine resource, which suffers as a result of such a malfunction. The node itself, which led to the occurrence of the malfunction in question, may also suffer. That is why, if this problem is identified, it should be eliminated as soon as possible.

Why the idling speed of the carburetor engine does not fall

At the moment, carburetor engines are practically not used in modern cars. However, it is necessary to consider why there may be a problem with high idle speed in such engines, since most of the problems overlap with injection engines. If such a malfunction occurs, you should pay attention to the following elements:


Most of the problems that lead to high idle speed in a carburetor engine have been discussed above. Also, a common problem for carburetors and injectors cannot be ruled out - jamming of the gas pedal.

Why the idle speed of the injection engine does not fall

Now let's look at the malfunctions that lead to increased idle speed in an injection engine. Unlike carburetor engines, where all the problems are of a mechanical nature, a malfunction in the injector may be associated, among other things, with improper operation of the electronics. The main reasons are as follows:


As you can see, there are a lot of problems due to which the idle speed does not decrease. If a similar malfunction occurs, you should start looking for its cause as soon as possible in order to prevent even more serious problems.

A drop in engine speed is quite an unpleasant incident for your car. This is not only about the inconvenience and the emergence of questions about the health of the machine, but also about the operation of important mechanisms. The problem is that a sharp drop in idle speed, when the car is rolling in neutral, can turn off the engine, and this already becomes dangerous for further movement. The driver may not notice such an incident, engage second gear and release the clutch, which will cause sudden engine braking. The car can start "from the pusher" in this way, or it can simply stop, which will create an emergency. When the car warms up, a drop in rpm also has an unpleasant effect on the driver's confidence. You have to constantly gas up your foot or use other methods to keep the engine in working order. It is worth understanding the causes of the problem.

So why does the rpm drop when warming up on cars with a carburetor? You can find many common reasons that unite the owners of both a specific car model and a specific type of carburetor. I must say that today cars with this type of fuel injection are no longer produced. This is not the best solution, since the carburetor is very sensitive to the quality and purity of fuel, often requires maintenance and does not serve very well in different climatic conditions. Stability is necessary for this type of gasoline injection, but in our operating conditions it is simply impossible to provide such a luxury to a car. Therefore, various problems arise that can lead to significant discomfort and even the danger of driving a car. Today we will look at the main reasons for a sharp or wavy drop in rpm during warming up on cars with carburetor fuel injection.

Perhaps it's not about the technology, but about the gas station?

As mentioned above, the carburetor is very sensitive to the quality of the gasoline that you put into the car's tank. If there are debris or impurities, the equipment will not be able to work normally. Dirty gasoline is cleaned up to a certain point by a filter, but over time, such cleaning ceases to help. Fuels with impurities and inclusions can be a big problem, which affects not only the rpm. Here are some important indicators of such a problem:

  • within a few kilometers after refueling with low-quality gasoline, you will feel changes in the dynamics of the car, fuel consumption will increase and stability will deteriorate;
  • engine idle speed can float, and this will indicate an unstable composition of the fuel mixture; at speed, small jerks and dips in the thrust of the unit are also possible;
  • after the engine has cooled down, at the next start, warming up may start unexpectedly from low rpm, you will have to play with suction in unusual ranges for warming up;
  • it is also quite possible that after warming up to 30-40 degrees, a failure will occur, which will need to be compensated for by pulling out the suction all the way or by gasping with the foot;
  • when warming up to operating temperature, the engine will work relatively stably, but the speed will remain floating, these are the indicators of low-quality fuel in the car's tank.

These criteria indicate that it is better not to go to the gas station you are used to. Of course, the same problems are possible if the carburetor fails and needs service. But often these problems arise precisely when low-quality fuel with a low octane number or with impurities. Therefore, the first step is to roll out the gasoline on a warm engine and add good proven fuel to it.

Time to service the carburetor - minor defects

Small breakdowns in the carburetor system can also cause a drop in speed during warming up. These are ruptured diaphragms, displaced cable fasteners or a jammed damper drive. Such troubles can be cured during the revision of this device. In the old days, every second car driver could independently sort out the carburetor, install a repair kit and drive on, listening to the contented rumbling of the unit. Today, the repair principle is as follows:

  • you should go to a car store or market to find a suitable repair kit for your type of carburetor, it is better to take original high-quality parts;
  • further, it is important to find a master who is well versed in carburetors and can help with the elimination of problems in your device, there are less and less such masters in cities;
  • a specialist in a few tens of minutes will sort out the equipment, find the problem and install new gaskets, membranes, seals and other products from the repair kit;
  • then it is necessary to check the equipment to make sure that there are no unpleasant effects, often this can only be done the next day on a cooled car;
  • the last step is regular visits to the master 1 time in 2 years for maintenance and revision of the carburetor, this will keep the car in good working order for a long period.

There are advantages to carbureted fuel injection. Maintenance and cleaning of the injector will cost a fortune. But the repair of the carburetor, even with the replacement of certain parts, will not be too expensive. But to obtain these advantages, you should find a master who is well acquainted with the features of your particular car model. Such a specialist will help fix all problems and continue to operate the machine without problems.

Condensation or dew point - is this possible?

On VAZ 2107 cars, a drop in engine speed very often occurs during warming up until the unit stops completely. This trouble is typical for all carburetors, except for the Solex. The problem is that at temperatures from 0 to +5 degrees, condensation can collect in the carburetor chambers. This is a specific type of dew that forms during temperature extremes. After starting the engine to cold, the following process occurs:

  • first, an open suction starts an enriched mixture, which burns without problems and does not cause tangible changes in the operation of the power unit, which is very important for a normal start;
  • as the car warms up, the owner of the car lowers the suction, the mixture approaches the working one in terms of characteristics, and the entire engine system is already a little warmed up, and here the most interesting begins;
  • condensate or dew begins to get into this mixture and change its properties, in some device models this happens quickly and unpleasantly, causing the motor to stop;
  • the driver pulls out the suction again or presses the gas pedal, the mixture is enriched, the engine works normally, but up to 60-70 degrees this process can be repeated endlessly;
  • after warming up to approximately the operating temperature, everything is normalized, the revolutions return to normal, the engine works well, therefore, when visiting the station, the master will not find anything.

How to deal with such a situation is difficult even to imagine. The only effective way would be to replace the carburetor with Solex, but these models also often have problems with starting the power unit in transition temperatures. So giving any specific advice in this case is not easy. It is best to service the equipment on time and always keep the fuel equipment in good condition, this will help to get the proper reliability of the machine.

Are there any other reasons for the sharp drop in revs?

There can be a whole variety of reasons for such a nuisance. If you are repairing the car yourself, it is worth taking a broader look at the trouble and trying to find the reasons in other nodes. But it is worth moving to other features of the car only if you are convinced of the high quality of the carburetor, normal fuel and other features mentioned above. Here are some more ideas to test:

  • fuel filters - very often the filter elements become clogged, and the owners forget to change them in time, and this leads to serious problems with the vehicle;
  • thermostat - perhaps after a slight warm-up of the small circle, your thermostat opens and lets a sharply icy liquid into the engine, which leads to a drop in speed;
  • electronics - it is worth checking the ignition, the correct installation of the timing belt, the absence of problems with sensors and various electronic equipment on board your car;
  • switching on electricity consumers - perhaps some powerful device automatically turns on in your car, which gives a load to the unit, the revolutions inevitably fall;
  • valve system - there will be no sharp drops and drops in this case, but floating and unstable revolutions are quite possible, and under load they will turn into drops.

There can be a lot of reasons for engine instability. Sometimes the problem is that the generator stops supplying normal voltage at a certain point, which affects the operation of the engine's electrical systems. The load on the engine can also be due to poor oil or internal failures in the cylinder block or in the valve system. So digging in this case can take quite a long time, but it is better to visit the service station and find the cause of the problem.

We suggest watching a video with a solution to one of the possible causes of this problem:

Summing up

There are dozens of breakdowns that lead to a sharp or gradual drop in revs on carburetor cars. But the question is that the equipment turns out to be quite demanding for maintenance, so all the reasons combined have to be eliminated. If you always face such a problem, then this is the specifics of the carburetor installed in your car. Most likely, only replacing the device will help get rid of the troubles. If the trouble occurred only a few times, you should try to service the fuel system, replace the filter and install a new carburetor repair kit.

Cars with this type of injection are gradually giving way to injection systems. They are safer, more economical, last longer and don't bring the hassle of carburetors. Of course, there are also many subtleties and features to keep in mind in direct injection. But changing the carburetor to an injector is too laborious and expensive process. It is better to properly service your equipment and get it to work properly. Even with very good service, after 1-2 years you will have to go to service again. Have you ever experienced a sharp drop in engine speed during warm-up?

During the operation of the car, many owners are faced with a number of problems. One of them is a decrease in engine power. At the same time, it is not always clear what is the reason for this phenomenon, what measures to take, whether it is worth going to the service station. Let's talk about the main reasons why the engine does not pull and how you can fix the problem on your own.

The main reasons for the decrease in engine power

1. Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor

There are situations when the DKPV untimely sends a control command to supply the air-fuel mixture. As a result, the power of the power unit drops before our eyes. The main cause of the failure is the shift of the sprocket in relation to the pulley and the damper delamination. In such a situation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the damper and replace it.

2. Increase (decrease) the gap between the electrodes of the candles

During operation, due to the powerful temperature effect, the distance between the electrodes of the candle may decrease or increase. To exclude or confirm your suspicion, you need to check the size of the gaps with a round feeler.If the distance is less or more than the allowable, you need to adjust by bending the side of the electrode or replace the spark plug. As for the optimal distance of the spark gap, it can be different (depending on the type of spark plug) - 0.7-1.0 mm.

3. The appearance of carbon deposits on candles is another clear sign of a problem.

If the engine pulls poorly, it is necessary to unscrew all the spark plugs one by one and inspect them. If obvious carbon deposits appear on the electrodes, the device must be cleaned with a metal bristle brush. In this case, it is important not only to clean the candles or replace them, but also to find out the cause of this phenomenon.

4. Failure of spark plugs

Decrease in engine power may be caused by product failure. In this case, it is necessary to check the performance of the candle on a special stand. If the suspicions are confirmed, then the only way out is to replace the kit or one candle.

5. There is no gasoline in the tank

You can diagnose the problem by looking at the fuel gauge. If it is faulty or there is a suspicion of its "inadequacy", then the presence of fuel can be determined by removing the fuel pump.

6. Contamination of the fuel filter, freezing of water in the system, pinching of the fuel line, failure of the fuel pump

All these malfunctions can be safely attributed to one category, because they all have the same symptoms - the starter cranks the engine, but there is no smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe. If the car is carbureted, then the cause must be looked for in the float chamber. Most likely, it is not supplied with fuel. In the case of an injector, the presence of fuel in the rail is easier to check by pressing a special spool (installed in the end of the rail).

To fix the problem, you need to thoroughly warm up the engine and pump the power system with a tire pump. After that, all the pipes of the system, hoses and the gas pump itself are changed.

7. Fuel pump creates too little pressure

This problem can be determined exclusively by special measurements (made directly at the outlet of the fuel pump). After that, the quality of the fuel pump filter is checked.

The solution is to clean the fuel pump filter, replace it (if repair is impossible) or install a new fuel pump.

8. Poor quality of contact in the circuit

Poor quality of contact in the circuit through which the fuel pump is powered or failure of its relay. The first thing to do to check is to make sure the quality of the "mass" on the car and measure the resistance with a multimeter. If the resistance level is really too high, then the only way out is to clean the contact groups, crimp the terminals well, or install a relay (if the old one is faulty).

9. Breakage of nozzles or malfunction in the supply system

If there is a suspicion of failure of these elements, it is necessary to check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter for the fact of an open or interturn short circuit. If the cause of the problem is a malfunction of the computer, then such a check can be carried out exclusively at a service station.

It is possible to eliminate the decrease in engine power for this reason in several ways (depending on the depth of the problem) - install a new computer, clean all the nozzles, ensure high-quality contact in the electrical circuit, and so on.

10. Breakdown of DPKV

Breakage of DPKV - crankshaft position sensor or damage to its chain. In such a situation, the "Check engine" malfunction lamp comes on. The first thing to do is to inspect the integrity of the DKPV itself, to make sure that the gap between the gear ring and the sensor is normal (it should be about one millimeter). The normal resistance of the sensor coil is about 600-700 ohms.

To solve the problem, it is enough to restore normal contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor (if the old one turned out to be faulty).

11. DTOZH is out of order

DTOZH is out of order - a sensor that controls the temperature of the coolant. The symptoms of the malfunction are as follows - the engine malfunction lamp comes on. If there is a break, then the electric fan of the system begins to rotate continuously. In addition, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the sensor itself.

If the engine power has dropped for this reason, then it is necessary to restore the quality of the contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

12. TPS is out of order

The DPDZ is out of order - a sensor that controls the correct position of the throttle valve (or its chain). As in the previous cases, the "Check engine" lamp comes on here. If there is an open circuit in the DPDZ circuit, then the engine speed usually does not drop below one and a half thousand revolutions.

The solution to the problem is to clean the throttle assembly and restore the quality of the contact connection in the entire electrical circuit. If the sensor is defective and cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced.

13. The DMRV is out of order

The DMRV is out of order - the sensor responsible for monitoring the mass fuel consumption. Here, the optimal action is to check the integrity of the mass air flow sensor or replace it with a serviceable device. If the failure of the mass air flow sensor is confirmed, then it is necessary to make an attempt to clean it, and in case of impossibility of repair, simply replace it.

14. Breakage of the knock sensor

Damage to the knock sensor. In the event of such a malfunction, the engine malfunction lamp must light up on the instrument panel. In addition, in the event of detonation DD failure, there is no detonation in any of the operating modes of the power unit and the engine power also decreases. With such a problem, the best option is to restore the integrity of the contact group in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

15. Breakage of the oxygen sensor

Breakage of the oxygen sensor or violation of its circuit. Such a malfunction is characterized by the "Check engine" lamp lighting up. In this case, the first thing to do is to check the heating coil for integrity. First, the resistance is measured, and second, the voltage level at the output. The measurement can be done even without breaking the circuit - just pierce the insulation with needles.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is worth repairing the oxygen sensor, restoring the quality of the wiring and cleaning all the holes through which air is sucked in. In extreme cases, it is necessary to replace the oxygen sensor itself.

16. Depressurization of the exhaust system

It is easy to diagnose such a problem - it is enough to inspect the main elements while the engine is running at medium speeds. To solve the problem, it is necessary to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and stretch all the seals.

17. Failure of the ECU

Failure of the electronic control unit (ECU). Despite its reliability, the ECU can also break down (sometimes its software simply gets lost). To make sure that it is working properly (failure of the computer), it is necessary to check the voltage on the unit itself (the normal parameter is about 12 Volts) or replace it with a known working unit. If the control unit is defective, it may need to be replaced. In some cases, it is sufficient to change only the wiring.

18. Violation of clearance adjustment in the valve drive

The compliance of the parameters can only be verified by checking with special probes. If the clearances are not correct (written in the manual), then adjustments must be made.

19. Deformation or breakage of valve springs

In this case, you will have to remove the cylinder head and measure the length of the springs under load and in a free state. If broken or deformed springs were found, then they need to be changed.

20. Camshaft cams are worn out

Here, a visual inspection will be enough (after removing the necessary elements) and replacing the camshaft, if necessary.

21. Disturbed valve timing

In such cases, it is necessary to check the fact that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft coincide. If there is an "imbalance", then it is enough to establish the correct position according to special marks.

22. Low level of compression in the cylinders

Low compression level in all or some of the cylinders. The reasons include probable valve damage or wear, breakage or sticking of piston rings. To verify suspicions or refute them, it is enough to take the necessary measurements. If the suspicion is confirmed, then it is necessary to repair the power unit - change rings, pistons or repair the cylinders.

Output

The above is only a part of the malfunctions due to which the engine power drops. But in most cases, this is enough to diagnose the problem, fix it, and return the much-needed traction to your "iron horse".

Many motorists were faced with the fact that the effect of a drop in idle speed began on the car. Often, this leads to the fact that the engine stalls altogether. This effect has many reasons that must be urgently eliminated in order not to cause even greater problems.

For what reasons are the turnover falling

Many car enthusiasts do not at all look after the condition of their cars, and even more so for the engine. Often, the consequences can be expressed in malfunctions, which will develop into major repairs, which will not pull a small amount of money. For these reasons, if there are malfunctions with the engine, it is necessary to return it to normal functionality.

So, let's consider the main reasons that lead to the fact that the idle speed drops:

  • Adjustment of screws "quantity" and "quality" is broken

A common cause of low idle speed on Ozone carburetors. Often, tightening the fuel adjustment screws is enough to restore normal rpm.

  • Fuel level incorrectly adjusted

In addition to a drop in engine idle speed, this leads to a drop in power. The motor may stall or start after long agony. Long-term operation on lean fuel can lead to engine failure.

  • Extraneous air enters the carburetor

"Leakage" of excess air can disrupt engine operation. Another option is that the air filter is dirty and not enough air enters.

  • Low-quality fuel

Engines designed for high-quality fuel consumption can fail or fail if they are "fed" with lower quality fuel, for example, 92 instead of 95. Moreover, a lot of new problems can fall on the engine that will have to be solved, so it is better to use good gasoline.

  • The on-board computer is malfunctioning

It also happens that the on-board computer begins to show inaccurate data. If everything feels great with the engine, but the electronics persistently speaks of a problem, you can try to connect a working BC and check on it.

  • It's time to change the spark plugs

Determining the cause of the malfunction

The following steps will help you determine the reason why the idle speed has dropped.

  1. If there are no additional signs of a drop in speed (for example, vibration), you can check the engine on another on-board computer.
  2. Check sensors.
  3. Inspect the spark plugs.
  4. Make sure the fuel and idle levels are adjusted correctly
  5. Make sure that excess air is not sucked into the carburetor.
  6. Inspect the air filter for contamination.

Approaches to solving the problem

When all the causes have been identified, you can proceed to troubleshooting. Of course, there are a different number of ways to solve the problem, but do not forget that a certain sequence of actions is required. It is worth considering the issue in more detail.

Adjust fuel and idle level

Idling adjustment on Ozone carburetors. You will need a tachometer and a slotted screwdriver. Work must be done on a warm engine. Turning the "quantity" screw in the direction of the hour hands, you can achieve an increase in revolutions.

If you cannot solve this problem with one “quantity” screw, you need to connect the “quality” screw, on which, if you haven’t used it yet, there may be a factory plug. It can be pulled out by screwing a suitable screw into the plastic and pulling it out.

The adjustment is usually carried out in 2-3 (several) passes.

Replace candles

Even if the candles have recently been replaced, they may be of poor quality or defective. Genuine parts are always better than their cheaper counterparts. Falling XX often hints at this malfunction.

Change fuel

Using sensors, it is necessary to check the pressure in the fuel supply system and the presence of contaminants. Then you need to change the fuel to a cleaner and better one. As a last resort, you should think about refueling at a gas station of another company.

Check air and fuel filters

The air filter may be dirty. As the filter becomes dirty, the amount of air that enters the engine decreases. The engine power is reduced and fuel consumption is significantly increased.

The air filter needs to be cleaned or, more importantly, replaced. It is best to carry out this procedure well in advance to avoid other problems in the future.

Flush idle speed sensor

If oil and other contaminants get into the sensor, it will fail. The sensor is cleaned with carburetor cleaner and aerosol fluid. The device must be pulled out and washed. The needle is gently cleaned with an aerosol liquid. Be careful that the liquid does not get into the insides (that is, under the spring), in order to avoid its failure.

Output

A drop in engine speed is a fairly common problem. It can happen not only for one reason - with severe engine wear, it happens that an integrated approach is needed, and breakdowns can be quite specific. In such a case, you may need to seek professional help.

It is imperative that all powertrain systems work properly. In this case, the engine should operate normally both under load and in idle mode.

In practice, drivers often encounter a problem when, after the throttle is released, the engine speed does not fall or falls with a long delay. It is quite obvious that excessive idle speed indicates a problem and is the cause of increased fuel consumption.

In this article, we will talk about why the engine speed does not fall, and also consider the main reasons why such problems arise in cars.

Read in this article

When the throttle is released, the RPM is increased or "freezes": common malfunctions

Let's start with the fact that on many cars with an injector, it rises during warming up. This is necessary in order for the power unit to operate stably after a cold start.

However, after the temperature rises, the control unit lowers the speed of XX, bringing them to normal. On many cars with a carburetor, the driver independently increases the speed during warming up, using the so-called "suction".

Moreover, after the engine is warmed up, the idle speed is, on average, 650-950 rpm. If you press the gas and release the accelerator, the rpm should increase, and then drop again to the specified values.

Also, a situation often arises when the revolutions are slowly dropped or are constantly kept at the level of 1.5 thousand rpm, 2 thousand revolutions, etc. Naturally, in such cases, the consumption increases and the internal combustion engine wears out more, which indicates the need for diagnostics.

  • So let's start with the common carburetor problems. Often the engine speed will not drop due to throttle problems. For example, when the driver presses on the gas, the throttle must be wider to allow more air to enter the cylinders for fuel combustion. After the gas pedal is released, the damper closes, the speed decreases.

If the damper does not close completely, the re-enriched mixture enters the cylinders, the speed is increased. The cause may be severe contamination of the throttle assembly or damage to the damper itself (deformation). First you need to clean the damper; carburetor cleaning fluid is suitable as a cleaner.

We also note that the damper does not close tightly even when the drive cable is worn out. In this case, the cable must be replaced. On carburetor machines, engine speed does not drop often even if the gasket between the carburetor is out of order. Also, the intake manifold, which is damaged, may be the culprit.

The main challenge is to find the right ratio of fuel and air. Often, a high level of fuel in the carburetor's float chamber will also lead to increased revs. The test should start with the needle valve.

  • Now let's move on to the injector. Pay attention to many injection cars. As for the malfunctions, the injection system itself is more complicated, that is, there are more reasons for high rpm compared to the carburetor.

As a rule, speed problems can be caused by malfunctions of both mechanical elements and electronic components. In the list of major malfunctions, experts highlight malfunctions of the coolant temperature sensor, which is installed in.

In simple words, if the specified sensor gives an incorrect signal, the ECU considers that the engine is cold and activates the warm-up mode. In this case, the control unit raises the speed so that the power unit works stably and reaches operating temperature faster.

Also, speed problems can begin due to malfunctions and malfunctions (idle speed regulator). It also happens that the throttle cable sticks and wedges. Also, the spring that closes the throttle valve can be stretched or damaged.

Special attention should be paid to gaskets, since air leakage can lead to the violation of mixture formation. This means that it is necessary to separately inspect the manifold gaskets, injector seals, etc.

Floating revs: reasons

Note that in some cases the turnovers do not just slowly fall or stay at the same level, but “float”. In this case, the engine may become unstable. first they fall, then they rise sharply and everything repeats. A frequent cause of this phenomenon is the supply of excess air, which leads to "jumps" in speed at XX.

Such problems arise in the event of a failure of the air supply sensor (), which allows the ECU to calculate how much air has entered and how much fuel to supply to prepare the required mixture.

If malfunctions occur, the control unit cannot prepare the "correct" mixture for the XX mode, which causes jumps in revolutions after releasing the gas pedal or when the engine is idling.

Let's summarize

As you can see, in many cases, in-depth diagnostics may be necessary to determine exactly why the engine speed is not being dropped. For carburetor engines, cleaning and adjusting the carburetor itself is often necessary, while an injector will.

If the problem does not lie on the surface (the damper cable is acidic, after washing or dry cleaning, the mat in the cabin is incorrectly placed, which presses the gas pedal, etc.), then it is better to take the car to the service.

The most difficult situation is when it involves a large number of sensors and actuators. In this case, even the use of diagnostic equipment does not always allow you to quickly and accurately determine the problem.

If diagnostics is difficult, it is optimal to deliver the car to a service that specializes in the repair of a particular car brand. As a rule, these are official dealer service stations, less often you can find third-party organizations.

Finally, we note that the timely detection of the problem allows you to save other components and assemblies. In other words, high rpms, rpm float and jumps indicate that there is a problem with the air / fuel supply or mixture formation. Ignoring such problems will negatively affect the engine and its service life.

Read also

Why the engine can have increased idle speed. The main reasons for the high speed of XX on the injection engine and engines with a carburetor.

  • The engine jerks at idle: why is this happening. Twitching of the engine in XX mode, diagnostics of possible malfunctions, recommendations.