GAZ-53 GAZ-3307 GAZ-66

Professional replacement of the timing chain for the Polo Sedan: Volkswagen (Volkswagen) maintenance regulations and the frequency of work. Timing chain replacement process volkswagen polo volkswagen polo sedan timing

The manufacturer of Volkswagen Polo Sedan 1.6 has established a clear schedule for replacing the timing chain on this car - 80,000 km. But earlier wear of this consumable is quite possible. The reason for this may lie both in the driving style of the motorist and in unfavorable driving conditions. The condition of the chain drive must be constantly diagnosed. This should be done after 25,000 km.

What is the threat of a worn chain?

Riding with worn out chain The timing is fraught with serious consequences. Of course, the chain is not a belt, and it is unlikely to break, but with a certain degree of wear, it may well come off the sprockets. Then there will be a collision of the pistons with the valves, which will lead to deformation of the latter. The pistons and cylinders will also suffer, and the car will have to be overhauled. In addition, after a certain period of time, the chain will certainly stretch, and it will also have to be changed. In order not to forget when the chain was last changed, you can put a plate under the hood with the corresponding inscription.

But what symptoms will indicate the wear of the chain drive:

  • the car will no longer start immediately;
  • when the engine is running, extraneous noises are heard;
  • the car began to consume much more fuel;
  • the motor power has decreased.

If one of these symptoms is found, you should turn your attention to the state of the chain transmission. Of course, there may be other reasons here, but nevertheless, chain wear is quite likely.

Repair of such complexity is within the power of every motorist. Of course, you can turn to specialists. But such repairs are not cheap. This is, firstly, and secondly, by changing the chain drive personally, you get the experience that is so necessary for those who want to deal with their car.

If you decide that you will change the chain yourself, then stock up on everything you need. Go to the store and buy new supplies there. In addition to the chain itself, tensioners and dampers will most likely have to be replaced. Prepare the tools required for the repair:

  • jack;
  • spanners;
  • set of heads;
  • screwdrivers with different types of tips.

Now that everything is ready, you can proceed directly to the repair. Do not forget about safety precautions. Remember that doing this type of repair can be very easy to injure or even injure yourself, so be careful.

The process of replacing a chain drive without the involvement of specialists

It usually takes 4-5 hours to replace the chain drive. Of course, everything here will depend on the level of training of the motorist. So let's get started.

  1. We install the car on the overpass.
  2. We remove the protection from the engine.
  3. We de-energize the car by disconnecting the left terminal from the storage battery.
  4. We remove the air intake.
  5. Now pay attention to the camshaft cover. There is a ventilation hose on it. It needs to be removed.
  6. We also remove the non-return ventilation valve.
  7. The oil separator is bolted to the cylinder block with two bolts. We unscrew them and remove the oil separator. The branch pipe must be led out through the hole.
  8. Remove the accessory drive.
  9. Now the refrigerant must be removed from the air conditioning system.
  10. We pay attention to the clips of the air conditioner wiring harness block. You need to press on them and dismantle the block by slightly pulling it in your direction.
  11. We remove the high and low pressure pipelines. The holes formed in their place must be plugged immediately. Be sure to do this, otherwise dirt will get into the system.
  12. We also remove the air conditioner compressor. To do this, you will have to unscrew 3 bolts.
  13. We also remove the compressor bracket. It is also secured with three bolts.
  14. Now you need to drain the oil from the engine system.
  15. Dismantle the flywheel shield.
  16. Remove the oil sump. Here you will have to tinker, since you will have to unscrew as many as 20 bolts.
  17. The oil pan will also have to be removed. He may not give in the first time. To remove it, you need to make uniform blows with a hammer around the entire perimeter.
  18. Now we take a mounting blade and fix the crankshaft with it so that it does not rotate. We unscrew the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley. Remove the pulley.
  19. We drain the antifreeze.
  20. Now we remove the pump pulley that supplies the coolant to the system.
  21. We take out the power unit using a lift.
  22. Remove the suspension support bracket, which is located on the right.
  23. Now remove the chain drive cover. Remember to remove the gasket. Assess her condition. It may also need to be replaced.

24. We mark the location of the chain drive, gears on the shafts.
25. Squeeze the chain tensioner and fix it in this position.
26. Remove the chain tensioners, having previously unscrewed all the necessary bolts.
27. We remove the shoe, and after it the chain itself.

Assembly procedures should be performed in reverse order. Be sure to check the operation of the engine. If you hear uncharacteristic noises, then something was done wrong, and the procedure will have to be repeated.

Video

The timing drive is a rotary element that combines the crankshaft and camshaft into a single structure. Thanks to this gas distribution mechanism, kinetic energy is obtained - the main driving force of the car.

Polo today is produced in two versions - "hatchback" and "sedan", with the first being produced in European countries, and the second - mainly in Russia (near Kaluga). The 1.6 liter engine, the most popular among our motorists, is produced in two series: with 8 and 16 valves (CFNB and CFNA - the corresponding marking).

The difference between them at Polo lies in the design features of the cylinder block. Of course, the 16-valve version is the most powerful and dynamic. But in order to fully understand that the Volkswagen Polo is better as a drive - a chain or a timing belt, it is necessary to consider all aspects.

Chain Power Units

So, a 105 hp engine. s, with a volume of 1.6 liters at the Volkswagen Polo is called CFNA.

  1. It is a 4-stroke, four-cylinder, 16-valve, two-camshaft power unit.
  2. Such an engine on a car is located across the longitudinal axis, which is one of its characteristic features. The operating procedure of the piston group schematically looks like this: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, while the clock cycles are counted from the crankshaft pulley.
  3. On such a DOHC scheme, the power system is based, which looks like a phased distributed fuel injection. In other words, the fuel mixture enters the cylinders in portions, passing through the throttles, according to the valve timing. At high speed modes, the asynchronous (mixed) method of fuel supply is automatically started.
  4. All accessories on the engine are covered with plastic covers, with the important ones highlighted in the corresponding color. The excellent dynamics of the Polo goes well with the economical consumption of gasoline - it is only 7 liters per 100 km of run in different driving conditions (highway-city).
  5. The drive from the double timing chain on the Polo sedan is several times more reliable and durable than with a profile belt, respectively, this also affects the period of operation of the machine. Non-contact ignition system with 4 coils, allows you to easily start the engine at any temperature, reduces fuel consumption.
  6. At the same time, a complex of smooth action of the valve timing (CVVT), in which the closing level of the intake valves changes, improves fuel combustion, which directly affects the reduced emission of harmful substances.
  7. The motor is mounted on three support pads, with the main part of the load falling on the side supports, and the third more plays the role of a compensator to reduce vibration.

Now on the automotive market you can buy a Polo sedan with a turbocharged reliable engine TSI 125 hp with., which has a chain drive. The greatest afterburner can be from 1400 to 4000 rpm, while acceleration to 100 km / h is only 9 seconds. Maximum speed the Polo has 200 km / h with a fuel consumption of 5.8 liters per 100 km of run.

Timing belt drives

In September 2015, at one of the Volkswagen factories located near Kaluga, the first series of the improved EA211 1.6-liter naturally-aspirated engine was released. with a timing belt drive.

Before launch, the power unit passed tests on Russian roads, was adapted and began to comply not only with their difficult conditions, but also with environmental standards adopted in Europe (Euro-5).

Not only the timing drive was subject to reconstruction, but also the cylinder head, oil pump, piston group, etc. Today, after the modernization of the EA111 engine with the chain installed, the Volkswagen Polo received a new EA211 engine, on which a timing belt was used. Moreover, this improvement made it possible to increase the power power unit 5 liters. With. and was 110 liters. With.

How to externally identify a timing chain or belt

On this car, the engine is in a transverse design and is called CFNA, and it has two camshafts on top.
You can determine which drive is used on the Polo sedan as follows:

  1. If the Polo has a timing chain drive, then there is a metal casing on it, but if a belt is installed, then it is protected by a plastic cover.
  2. In addition, you can find out the difference between the timing drive mechanism by the engine displacement. In the gas distribution mechanism of the Volkswagen Polo with a volume of 1.8-2.0 liters, a chain is used, and on power units with a volume of 1.6 liters or less, a timing belt is used.
  3. You can also judge the timing drive by the date of manufacture of the car and the marking of the engine. On the "tricks" produced before 2015, an EA111 series motor with a chain drive was installed, and on later models, power units with the EA211 number were mounted, and belts are used instead of a chain.

However, Volkswagen allows the production of the 1.6-liter Polo sedan in two versions: with a chain drive and a belt drive. It depends on whether the engine is naturally aspirated or turbocharged.

Which drive is better for Polo

To answer this question, you need to take into account several factors that affect the demand for a car with a particular drive.
Namely:

  • lifetime;
  • the cost of the drive unit and its replacement;
  • driving conditions;
  • reliability of the replaced parts;
  • comfort;

And if we consider the timing chain drive, then you need to take into account the rows of this product. Double-row chains last twice as long as single-row chains.

For the reliability of parts

The timing chain easily withstands overloads and is suitable for driving in difficult conditions in any climatic region of our country.
Compared to a belt drive, the chain mechanism has its advantages:

  1. Resistant to oil and high temperature.
  2. No stretching under excessive loads: the chain links do not jump over the gear teeth (with the appropriate tension).
  3. Neutrality to weather influences: this timing element is not afraid of moisture in an oil environment, frost and temperature extremes.

And also the durability of the component parts, which largely depends on the manufacturer, is of great importance for the duration of the drive.

By service life

Volkswagen representatives say the chain is designed for the entire life of the Polo sedan. Dealers say that it is necessary to change the timing chain and drive accessories after 170-190 km.
And experienced motorists recommend updating it in the event of a run of 90-120 thousand km. And they associate this not with the end of the resource, but with its stretching. Although it is insignificant, nevertheless, the lengthening of the chain links affects the displacement of the phases of the piston group, which leads to a drop in engine power.

At the cost of replacements s and spare parts

The main criterion when choosing a timing drive is the power of the power unit and the price segment of the mounted accessories. As a rule, the smallest budget option Polo passes with belts installed, and in the middle and high price segment, chain drives are used on the engines.
The Polo sedan engines have their own advantages and disadvantages. Undoubtedly, on the EA211 motor, timing belt replacement is required more often than the chains on the EA111 motor drive. But at the same time, one should not forget that changing the belt is much easier and cheaper than the chain in the gas distribution mechanism.


FUNCTIONAL PURPOSE OF THE TIMING BELT

Timing belt replacement is part of the planned Maintenance car Volkswagen polo and plays an important role in the operation of the engine vehicle... Untimely replacement of the belt can lead to a malfunction of the motor, and a break can lead to deformation of the valve of the gas distribution mechanism and the need for an overhaul of the engine.

All parts of the gas distribution mechanism are closely related to each other, air injection fuel mixture drives the piston of the engine cylinder, which in turn pushes the crankshaft connected by the drive belt to the camshaft. Thus, the camshaft moves, which regulates the frequency of the valves. The Volkswagen Polo timing belt connects the gears and transfers torque from the crankshaft to the camshaft, affecting the speed of its rotation. If the system is working properly, the frequency of their revolutions should be equal.

TIMING BELT FAULTS

  1. Timing belt wear leads to a change in the force of transmission of torque from the crankshaft to the camshaft, as a result of which there is a change in the frequency of movement of the pistons and engine valves. This, in turn, leads to a malfunction of the gas distribution system, rapid heating of the engine and, as a consequence, a decrease in engine power and an increase in the consumption of the fuel mixture. For reliable and uninterrupted operation of the motor, it is necessary that the valves close and open at the same frequency as the engine pistons. If, due to wear, slippage of the timing belt occurs, this can cause a break.
  2. A break in the Volkswagen Polo timing belt is the most dangerous damage to the engine. In the event of such a malfunction, the camshaft is no longer associated with crankshaft and can stop completely arbitrarily in such a position in which any of the valves of the gas distribution mechanism will be open. In this case, the piston, moving upward, can collide with the valve, which will lead to its deformation. In this case, the car engine is in danger of serious repairs. It should be noted that a timing belt breakage does not occur unexpectedly, almost always this is accompanied by changes in the operation of the car's engine, a decrease in its power, a change in gasoline consumption, the occurrence of extraneous squeaks, squeaks, etc.

To prevent and prevent the operation of the gas distribution mechanism, it is necessary to periodically replace the timing belt, this will save the Volkswagen Polo engine from damage, prevent premature engine wear and increase its service life.


REASONS AND ASSESSMENT OF TIMING BELT WEAR

Timing belt wear occurs for a number of reasons, avoiding which you can extend the life of the car engine.

To prevent complete wear of the timing belt, it is necessary to periodically, during a visual inspection of the gas distribution mechanism, check for damage on the surface of the belt. To inspect and evaluate the belt drive, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the protective cover of the mechanism, under which the engine is hidden. The first signs of wear are:

  • the appearance of oil and antifreeze smudges capable of chemically destroying the timing belt, with prolonged exposure;
  • the occurrence of longitudinal cracks on the back surface of the belt;
  • the formation of transverse cracks on the inner surface of the drive belt;
  • a loose surface and a violation of the integrity of the edge are also a sign of wear;
  • the wear of the belt is also indicated by rubber dust on the surface of the part;
  • if the timing belt teeth began to peel off or wear off, the part must be immediately replaced with a new one.

SYMPTOMS OF THE TIMING BELT

  1. Increased consumption of gasoline by car
  2. Decreased engine power
  3. Full stop of the car on the move, when trying to start, the engine does not start, and the starter rotates easier than usual
  4. Unstable engine operation on Idling and in motion;
  5. The occurrence of shots in the receiver of the injector and the exhaust pipe

All these malfunctions may indicate a shift in valve timing and a loosening of the belt tension. If on your Volkswagen Polo you notice one or more of the signs and this list - immediately contact the service station for an inspection.

HOW OFTEN IT IS NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE TIMING BELT Volkswagen Polo

Frequency of replacement for any Supplies for cars depends on the driving style and mode of operation of the car. With extreme driving style and aggressive use of the vehicle, it is necessary to replace the timing belt as it wears out and the teeth wear off.

Under normal operating conditions, it is necessary to replace the original timing belt as planned, every 60 - 70,000 km. mileage. During this period, it develops its resource and becomes unusable. If your Volkswagen Polo has an analog belt, it must be replaced a little earlier than the time recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

WHICH TIMING BELT IS BETTER TO CHOOSE

Modern belts for the gas distribution system are a high-tech product, characterized by increased strength and wear resistance, capable of withstanding high dynamic loads. Timing belts are made of neoprene or polychloroprene reinforced with durable fiberglass, nylon and cotton cords.

  1. To avoid the mistake associated with buying a timing belt, contact the specialists who will help you order a timing belt suitable for your car's engine using the WIN code of your car. This part is one of the most important in the design of the motor, the slightest deviation in the length, width, shape and size of the teeth can lead to engine malfunctions. Volkswagen cars Polo.
  2. Do not try to save money when buying a timing belt, a cheap product can be a low-quality fake, which will quickly deteriorate and may cause serious engine damage in the future. The best option for any car, there are original parts, their cost is higher than analog ones, but during the operation of the car they quickly pay for themselves.
  3. When buying a timing belt, check its rigidity, nice belt should be elastic and easy to bend. The worse the belt, the more rigid it will be.
  4. The presence of teeth, sagging, pores on the belt is not allowed - these are signs of a low-quality belt that will quickly become unusable. The surface of the product must be smooth, small burrs are allowed.
  5. When buying by yourself, check the timing belt part number printed on the back, it must match the WIN code of the car. If it is not possible to compare the code of the belt and the car, then it is necessary to make a visual comparison of the old and new belt, they must be completely identical.
  6. To avoid buying a fake, try to purchase spare parts only from authorized, verified dealers.
  7. Do not skimp on a qualified timing belt replacement, contact our certified car service, where competent mechanics will help you repair your Volkswagen Polo. And in the spare parts store, you can buy original spare parts for your car.


2509 | 18.01.2019

Volkswagen sedans Polo is equipped with power units of the EA111 family, the first developments of which began several decades ago. The CFNA motor was last upgraded in 2003. The engine received an aluminum cylinder block, at the same time the first models of power units with turbocharging and direct fuel injection appeared.

Under the BAG index, a 1.6-liter atmospheric power unit was installed on Polo cars. For the EA111 family, this motor was the first development. By its design and technical specifications the engine is almost identical to the 1.4 liter TSI model.

Comparing both power units with CFNA and BAG indices, experts come to the conclusion about the related origin of the units. Both motors are equipped with the same timing kits. The same chains are installed on TSI engines from 122 to 160 horsepower.

Supplied on Russian market Polo sedan cars have been equipped with CFNA engines since 2010. A similar power plant was received by the European versions of the popular budget car, as well as the Skoda Fabia demanded in the market. If necessary, such a motor can be found in disassembly operations both in Russia and in Eastern Europe.

In addition to CFNA, Volkswagen Polo cars were equipped with motors with the BTS index. The unit features a normally developed exhaust manifold and a phase shifter on the intake camshaft. The engine was first installed on the Polo sedan in 2006. The BTS power unit is assembled on the basis of power plant from VW Golf 4, aluminum cylinder block is included in the package. The same engine can be found on Fabia, Toledo, Ibiza cars.

Exhaust manifold problems, configuration errors and mechanical defects

One of the pronounced disadvantages of the CFNA power plant is the poor design of the exhaust manifold. Diversion channels exhaust gases are of different lengths, and the catalyst is too close to them. As a result, the following difficulties are observed in the operation of the system:

  • Exhaust gases from the first cylinder partially enter the second cylinder, which is in the purging stage;
  • Similar processes, albeit to a lesser extent, are observed in the operation of the 4th and 3rd cylinders.
  • Problems with the intake of fresh air into the engine are pronounced.
  • Formation of a mixture, combustion of products is carried out with low efficiency, the fuel is not fully used.

In addition to the indicated disadvantages associated with design features, the CFNA motor has another drawback. In some cases, the exhaust manifold will crack between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. The best option is to replace the collector, even with high-quality welding, the crack reappears after a while.

Problems with the crankcase ventilation membrane

For various models of gasoline-powered powertrains, problems with the VCG membrane are a standard situation. In CFNA engines, this element tends to crack over time. The consequences of such a defect are:

  • Ventilation system operation blow-by gases is substantially violated.
  • The traction characteristics of the motor are reduced.
  • The current fuel consumption is increasing.
  • The smell of exhaust gases can be felt in the interior of the car.
  • The oil filler plug is strongly sucked when the engine is running.

The purpose of the VKG membrane is to adjust the intensity of the removal of crankcase gases. In case of loss of tightness, formation of holes, this element must be replaced.

Timing chain breakage

The chain drive has been used on cars with engines of the EA111 family since the early 2000s. According to preliminary calculations, this solution should have reduced maintenance costs. As a result of the analysis of practical data, it was revealed that the costs in general have increased. The timing chain stretch is fixed at 100 thousand kilometers. After another 50 thousand, a roar is clearly heard when starting the power unit and at the initial stage of work.

The engine has a hydraulic chain tensioner but no backstop. The chain tension is only possible with the engine running, when the oil pressure reaches optimal values. When the engine is stopped, the spring and the remaining oil are responsible for the chain tension. As a result, the risks associated with chain slack in the absence of load, jump in start mode increase significantly. One of the fatal options for the development of events is the bending of the exhaust valves.

Wear and knocking of the piston group

One of the drawbacks of CFNA engines is the pronounced knock of the pistons when starting the unit and warming it up. Such defects can manifest themselves already at 15 thousand mileage, they are observed on 1 or 2 pistons. If the coolant temperature is less than 10 degrees, the knocking is determined by the rigid shift of the cold piston at an early injection advance angle set by the electronics.

The second reason for piston knocking is excessive pinching of the exhaust manifold. Due to the increased back pressure of the exhaust gases, the quality of the filling of the second cylinder is reduced. Poor piston pin lubrication also results in a pronounced knocking sound.

The standard solution to the problem in dealerships has always been the replacement of pistons with new units. At the same time, the installation of improved models, in the name of which there is the letter ET, was considered the most effective. In parallel, the electronics unit was flashed. Since 2013, dealers have been replacing the exhaust manifold, but there is no information about the changes in the firmware.

Many CFNA-powered car owners who have replaced the pistons on the ET have reported knocking after a while. First of all, such a defect is found on a cold engine, gradually becomes visible on a warmed-up power unit. The problem is associated with the development of pistons and walls, an increase in the working clearance. Moreover, such knocks do not lead to fatal consequences.

In order to minimize knocking, it is recommended to exclude the warming up of the power unit after starting. It is also required to immediately turn on all systems that consume energy, which gives an additional load on the generator and motor. Another option is to install an exhaust manifold without a catalyst. In this case, the outlet channels become equal in length.

Publicly available statistics do not contain data on seizure of CFNA engines after the appearance of piston group knocks. More than half of the engines are working properly 200 thousand kilometers or more. Some cars have a mileage of 500 thousand km without replacing pistons and other work. To avoid sudden surprises associated with increased consumption oil, it is necessary to exclude the operation on 92-m gasoline, especially of low quality, perform scheduled maintenance in a timely manner.

Choose and buy petrol or diesel engine for different Volkswagen models you can.

The AEV engine was installed on cars:

Volkswagen Polo 3 / Volkswagen Polo 3 (model code: 6N1) 1995 - 2000

information is suitable for repairs and other cars.

So, after recently, hydraulic lifters began to knock, and even after warming up, and a verdict was issued - for a replacement. It's just time to change the oil, along the way we will change consumables (oil and air filters), timing belt, poly-V-belt (it began to whistle like on basins) and oil as a finishing touch.

Before starting work, you must have:
1. A set of tools (heads, keys, hexagons, etc.)
2. Spare parts that need to be replaced (filters, hydraulic lifters, oil, belts)
3. Free time and space for repairs

Getting Started

Remove the cover air filter, take out the filter and unscrew the 3 nuts, due to which the lower part of the case is held

Remove the timing belt protective cover by unscrewing the clamps with a screwdriver, 2 in front and 1 in the back

Loosen the roller (in the direction of the arrow) and remove the V-ribbed belt

As you can see from the following pictures, the new one was bought for a reason, the new company Ae was installed in mid-November, therefore we conclude that the belts of this company are "not very" and we do not take them anymore

This was the reason for the unpleasant whistle. We will replace it with this

Go ahead, unscrew the crankshaft pulley. Here you need to be more careful with the bolts, because they have an internal hex which is easy to flare if they are loose due to dirt. Therefore, we thoroughly clean everything, you can sprinkle a little HP. It is better, of course, to have spare ones in case of a breakdown. Along the way, we drain the oil by substituting a container for working out (marked with an arrow)

Use a spanner wrench to help rotate the crankshaft to unscrew the remaining bolts

Then we take out everything, including the timing roller and have the following picture

We go up
We remove the valve cover, and begin to unscrew the camshaft covers. The most important thing when reassembling is to position them correctly. Some of them (I have not all) have serial numbers (shown with an arrow), indicating where they need to be placed, they also serve as a guide, i.e. they need to be exposed facing you, and not vice versa. It is also better to have a few studs on the M7 in stock, if you are not sure that the thread on them is good and nothing is ripped off (I had to replace 2, I need to tear something off the previous "masters" who screwed bolts into their heads instead of studs, and not on M7)

After we unscrew everything, we throw off the camshaft and here they are, the culprits of the repair

We pull out the old hydraulic lifters, you can use your hands, you can use a magnet and prepare a place for new ones

We unpack the new ones (by the way, the old ones were also INA? How long they went through, unfortunately, is not known)

While the partner was inserting the wetsuit, in between times you can replace oil filter... Lubricate the gum lightly with new oil and twist it by hand, that's enough!

True, some people force themselves and pull the filters with a knob, this is not necessary, nothing will flow from it, provided a good filter and sealing gum (installed KNECHT / MAHLE OC295). The installation location is marked with an arrow

After installing the hydraulic lifters, we assemble everything in the reverse order, observing the tightening torques! We pull the bolts of the camshaft covers with a torque of 10 Nm, the nuts on the studs 6 Nm + turn them 90 degrees.

Now, before putting on the timing belt, we expose marks on the camshaft and crankshafts. On the crankshaft gear, one tooth is cut and there is a protrusion on the block that must be aligned (photo taken at an angle, so from this angle it seems that the marks are slightly not aligned)

There is a point on the camshaft pulley that needs to be aligned with the plastic tab on the guard (marked with an arrow)

After we put on the belt, we tighten the timing belt roller. Insert the hexagon by 6, pull in the direction of the green arrow, until a characteristic click, when the roller tongue will jump onto the mark (marked with a red arrow)

We collect the elements of the air filter housing and before closing the lid, put new filter(KNECHT / MAHLE LX568)

Now we are at the finish line, it remains to fill in a new oil. I pour the original from Nissan 5w-40, I get it through the drivers who are prescribed oil for company cars authorized dealer for replacement, but they sell it and pour some kind of cheap one, or don't change it at all, the car is not its own The experience of using this oil is very long, there were no problems with it, in winter it always started up the first time, even at -35 (and winter was not very warm this time). Opponents of such a plan of oil, who are afraid of oil seals, I want to say right away that nothing has squeezed out of me yet, and I think it is unlikely that this oil will squeeze out. Who might be interested, here is its article in the store KE90090042

P.S. a friend has been pouring this oil for 4-5 years, probably in the AUDI 100 1985 onwards. and the engine runs like clockwork

Well, that's all, you can go wash your hands after renovation, comments are welcome, thank you all for your attention

Addition from seric:

When tensioning the timing belt, there should be no characteristic clicks, the roller is pulled in the other direction.

Install the tensioner roller and hand-tighten the retaining nut.
- The recess in the base plate -1- must grip the head of the fixing bolt -2-.
- Tension the toothed belt by turning the tensioning roller in the direction of the arrow until the arrow -3- is positioned over the slot in the base plate -arrow-.
- Tighten the clamping nut on the tensioning roller. Tightening torque: 20 Nm

After tightening the timing, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft twice in the direction of engine rotation until it stops again at TDC of the first cylinder.
After that, it is necessary to check the position again. toothed belt and a tension roller.

Add-on from kentochek:

Replaced the video, took the original, tk. the difference in price relative to the same INA was only 200 rubles. Here is a photo of the new video

The installation process is the same as described above for removing the timing belt. The most important thing is to correctly install the roller itself, you need the support plate to cover the bolt and properly tension the roller. You need to tighten it as described in the diagram above, and make sure that the signal tongue does not "go" beyond the mark, so as not to overtighten the belt. Tightening torque of the nut that secures the roller itself, 20Nm


Decoding of the vehicle's original equipment
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If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.