Snowmobile based on a walk-behind tractor, description, photos and videos. Do-it-yourself snowmobile - assembly photos and drawings Do-it-yourself wheeled snowmobile

In regions with heavy snowfall in winter, using two-wheeled vehicles is not advisable. But you don’t always need a car. In such cases, a snowmobile comes to the rescue, but this type of transport is expensive. If you wish, you can make a snowmobile with your own hands, and there are many ways to do this.

How to make a snowmobile

You can make a snowmobile from different vehicles that are in the garage.

From a motorcycle

You can make a snowmobile from a motorcycle using different models. The most popular are IZH and Ural. The advantages of such a rework are that no special changes need to be made. If the product is in good condition, you can even keep the original frame.

The conversion technology is as follows:

Make a rectangular frame from metal pipes or appropriate corners. Its optimal dimensions are 150*43.5 cm.
In addition to the IZh motorcycle, it is necessary to make a steering beam. It is made from metal corners. Optimal sizes— 50*50*5 mm. Additionally, the beam is sheathed with metal plates.
After this, it can be installed horizontally on the drilling machine. Treat the connection area. Do the same with the frame. In these places you need to make special grooves for reliable fixation. Additionally, attach a corner to the front frame.
Now you can attach the seat for motorcyclists.
You need to make holes in the side members.
A channel must be placed between the front and middle parts of the frame to strengthen the structure.
Regardless of whether the snowmobile is made from a Ural or another model of motorcycle, it is necessary to select a track sprocket and rubber band in advance. The optimal dimensions are 220*30 cm with a thickness of no more than 1 cm.
Before installation, it is recommended to cover the track with nylon, which will allow the material not to delaminate during operation.
Now you can move on to the transmission. It consists of two parts. The first, the front axle, is the drive axle. It is made of a tubular shaft, a track sprocket and a roller. Second - rear axle. It is made from a caterpillar drum and a tubular shaft.
The snowmobile manufacturing process must be completed by welding sheet metal skis.

When converting a motorcycle into a snowmobile, it is important not to change the steering system. In the final product, this part must perform its original functions.

The principles of modification are the same, they do not depend on the vehicle model. But the snowmobile from the Ural motorcycle will be heavier.

From Zhiguli

The design of the car is characterized by simplicity, ease of operation and high maneuverability. To make it you need to follow the instructions:

Frame assembly. It's better to make it from pipes. The frame consists of front and central beams (steel pipes with a diameter of 5 cm), two lower diagonal elements (bent pipes with a diameter of 3 cm) and a rear strut. Welding is used to fix the elements.
Installation of steering columns. To do this, you need to place two bushings on the front beam.
Fixing the axle shaft. It is located on the rear frame; first you need to weld the body under it. It is made from a metal pipe with a diameter of 6 cm. Secure the axle shafts using bushings and electric rivets.
Installing a car engine. First you need to make the front and rear fastening units on the central beam of the frame. First they need to be placed on the engine itself, and only then welded to the frame.
In a homemade snowmobile, you can install large diameter wheels or skis made of sheet metal. In the first case, the rear and front wheels need to be connected in pairs with a metal pipe. At the same time, make grooves in the hub for the bearings, which are subsequently secured with spring rings. Additionally, install a spacer between the bearings.
Install a sprocket on each wheel depending on the intended maximum speed. This snowmobile can be used at any time of the year. For a snowy winter, a design in which the front wheels are replaced with skis is suitable.
Installation of the steering system. It is taken whole from a car, for example, from a Zaporozhets, or a motorcycle. The choice depends on personal preference. In the first case, gas, clutch and brake pedals are additionally installed. The gearbox is controlled using a lever and a rigid rod.
Installation of a snowmobile cabin, the role of which is played by the car body.

The snowmobile that this story will be about was assembled by tenth-grader Sergei Sorokin from the Altai village of Ust-Kamanka. And this is not surprising. The guy has been interested in technology since childhood - for eight years he has been studying at the CDT (Children's Creativity Center) in the "Small-sized equipment" club. The head of the circle, Viktor Aleksandrovich Kurbatov, assisted in the selection of drawings and design of the layout and transmission diagrams of the machine. Responsible welding work Father, Boris Andreevich, helped carry it out. I did everything else, including processing parts on machines, myself. In total, Sergei built the snowmobile for about a year; assembly alone took almost four months, from autumn to spring. And until the snow melted, I only had time to test it, “plowing” all the snowdrifts around the house. But now he has revealed some shortcomings that he plans to eliminate by next season.

Our regions are snowy, and winter lasts almost six months. Therefore, every local boy dreams of a snowmobile - the ability of this machine to overcome deep snowdrifts is amazing. A friend advised me to build a tracked snowmobile - he himself began to build the same machine in the winter (though, then he cooled down and abandoned it). Besides, I already had summer transport - a scooter. In the spring, I also started work, although slowly (besides, it was slowed down by problems with welding).

1 – guide ski (2 pcs.); 2 – muffler; 3 – exhaust pipe; 4 – engine (from the K-125 motorcycle); 5 – steering shaft (pipe d22); 6 – steering wheel; 7 – gas tank; 8 – inclined seat post (pipe 20×20, 2 pcs.); 9 – vertical seat posts (pipe 20×20, 4 pcs.); 10 – seat cushion (foam rubber s50, covered with leatherette); 11 – caterpillar; 12 – tension axis assembly with two rollers); 13 – subframe with support ski and runners; 14 – frame; 15 – caterpillar drive shaft assembly; 16 – footrest (stamped steel grid, 2 pcs.); 17 – seat frame trim (s5 plywood)

It turned out to be easy to decide on the design - since there was still little experience, I decided to build it in the likeness of those that were in the circle: three-legged (with a caterpillar made of wooden blocks on two strips of conveyor belt and two front steering skis). To simplify the design, I considered it expedient to make these support units without shock-absorbing suspensions. In the summer I prepared the tape and bars for the caterpillar, bought a second-hand (used) power unit from a Minsk motorcycle. The engine had to have its piston and rings replaced. And in the fall, when we bought a welding unit, the work on creating a snowmobile became more active.

The frame of the snowmobile, although spatial, is simple - rectangular in plan. Its main power elements (spars and cross members) are welded from steel pipes of rectangular section 40x20 mm, auxiliary ones are made from square pipes - 20x20 mm. The front crossmember is made of a pipe with a cross-section of 60×30 mm and is welded to the front ends of the side members at an angle of 15 degrees (the angle between the longer wall of the pipe and the horizontal). In fact, all the crossbars, except the first one, are made in the form of portals (U-shaped, only on short racks). At first, I made the struts of the portal cross members slightly inclined inward (I thought it would be more beautiful), but, as it turned out during tests, the ends of the tracks began to touch them. It was necessary to shorten the already short tracks, so I decided that it would be better to overcook the portals, making them rectangular.

The frame parts also include the housings of the steering knuckles of the steered skis. The housings are made of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 32 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm and are welded to the ends of the traverse at an angle of 15 degrees to the vertical.

1 – front bumper (steel pipe 20×20); 2 – bushing of the steering knuckle of the ski guide (pipe 022, 2 pcs.); 3 – front mounting eye power unit(steel sheet s4); 4 – spar (pipe 40×20, 2 pcs.); 5 – rear eye for mounting the power unit (steel sheet s4); b – strut (steel pipe 20×20); 7 – support stand for the steering shaft bushing (pipe 20×20); 8 – steering shaft bushing (pipe 028); 9 – seat backing plate (steel sheet s2); 10 – spinal bridge (pipe 20×20); 11 – portal racks (pipe 20×20, 6 pcs.); 12 – rear bumper(pipe 20×20); 13 – scarf (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 14 – bracket for fastening the drive shaft and the tension axis of the track (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 15 – frame of the footrest (pipe 20×20.2 pcs.); 16 – portal jumper (pipe 20×20.3 pcs.); 17 – support cross member (pipe 20×20); 18 – traverse (pipe 50×30)

1 – frame (steel angle No. 2); 2 – sole (polyethylene s5); 3 – base (steel sheet s2); 4 – bracket (2 pcs.); 5 – rivets (bottom – recessed heads, set)

1 – runner (steel sheet s3); 2 – ridge (steel pipe 20×20); 3 – bushing (steel pipe d26x2)

The crawler drive is similar to what most do-it-yourselfers use. Its caterpillar consists of a pair of parallel endless strips (with riveted ends) made of a 65 mm wide conveyor belt, combining tracks made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x40 mm, attached to them in increments of 100 mm. The total length of the caterpillar is just over two meters, the number of tracks on it is 20 pieces. To prevent the caterpillar from “moving” to the sides, corners are attached to the ends of the track bars (every one or two) on the free side. Each corner is a welded part, and their vertical shelves-walls are made rounded (from a pipe) so that the corners themselves cannot jam on the support ski or drive gears.

1 – drive sprocket of the caterpillar drive shaft (z=32); 2 – bearing housing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 3 – key; 4 – drive sprocket hub (pipe d40x7.5); 5 – gear wheel z=8, t=50 (duralumin); 6 – flange for fastening the gear to the shaft (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 7 – shaft (steel, circle 25); 8 – M8x25 bolt (8 pcs.); 9 – bearing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 10 – caterpillar; 11 – bracket for fastening the shaft to the frame

Caterpillar (a-front view; b – track joint; c – top left view along the track):

1 – track (birch timber 50×40, set); 2-lane (conveyor belt 65×10, 2 pcs.); 3-limiter (steel sheet s4, set); 4 – plate (steel sheet s4, set); 5 – M6 bolt with regular and spring washers, set)

The lower branch of the caterpillar is supported by a support ski, and the upper branch is not allowed to sag by two runners made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. The ends of the runners are beveled to make it easier for the caterpillar to get on them and for the tracks to come off silently. The support ski is made of 5 mm thick polyethylene sheet on a 2 mm steel sheet base with a frame made from angle No. 2. It has upward bends at the front and back. The snow itself serves as a lubricant when the tracks slide along the support ski and runners, which, as practice shows, ensures the service life of the parts for one or two seasons (depending on the intensity of use), after which they have to be replaced. The support ski in the subframe is hingedly attached to a pair of posts welded at the other ends to an additional frame cross member made of rolled angle 50x50 mm. But during the very first tests, the racks began to bend. They had to be strengthened with struts made of steel strip with a cross-section of 30×4 mm. The skids are installed parallel to the side members and are rigidly attached to the additional frame cross member with M10 bolts.

The power unit, as mentioned above, was used from the Minsk motorcycle (two-stroke, displacement - 125 cm3 and power - 10 hp). It was placed in front, in the middle of the frame. This arrangement made it possible not to think about the weight distribution of the unit, but forced us to make a “crooked” steering shaft so that when turning, it would bypass the engine cylinder without touching it. The engine was secured to the frame using a pair of lug brackets made from 4 mm steel sheet and cut to the shape of standard ones, which are welded to the motorcycle frame. The motor has not undergone any modifications, even the output shaft sprocket remains standard, fifteen teeth.

1 – steering wheel (from the Minsk motorcycle); 2 – steering shaft (steel pipe d22x2); 3 – steering bipod (steel sheet s4); 4 – steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 5 – transverse rod (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); 6 – kingpin with fork (2 pcs.); 7 – steering knuckle housing (steel pipe d32x5.2 pcs.); 8 – plain bearing (nylon, 4 pcs.); 9 – traverse

1 – steering knuckle body; 2 – kingpin (steel, circle 16, 2 pcs.); 3 – fork (channel No. 5); 4 – fist axis (steel, circle 16.2 pcs.); 5 – axle sliding bearing (nylon cap 2 pcs.); 6 – M16 nut with a spring washer for fastening the axle (2 sets); 7 - steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4); 8 – M16 nut with a spring washer for securing the lever; 9 – sliding bearing pin (nylon, 4 pcs.); 10 – frame traverse; 11 – ski stiffener (ski spine); 12 – ski runner; 13 – ski bushing

Fuel (a mixture of gasoline with motor oil For two-stroke engines) is supplied to the engine carburetor by gravity, from a homemade gas tank with a volume of 5 liters, located above the engine between the steering wheel and the seat.

The snowmobile's transmission is also the simplest - without an intermediate shaft and gearbox. Chain transmission from the output shaft transmits rotation directly to the drive sprocket of the track shaft, on which a pair of track drive gears is mounted. Gear wheels were cast in a mug from aluminum melted in an electric furnace into a cast iron mold. They are connected to the shaft through round steel flanges welded to it, each with four M8 bolts.

The shaft rotates in two bearings No. 203, the housings of which are mounted on plate frame brackets designed for them (welded to the side members). The tension axis is also made in the likeness of the drive shaft, only instead of drive gears, two rubber-lined rollers with a smaller diameter are installed on it.

The chain is tensioned (or loosened for removal) by moving the drive shaft away from the power unit, and the track is by moving the rear tension axle even further back.

The guide skis (there are two of them) are made of steel sheet 3 mm thick and reinforced with a longitudinal stiffening element made of a steel pipe with a cross-section of 20×20 mm welded on top. The ski is pivotally connected to the steering knuckle strut and has the ability to rotate in a vertical plane - to run over obstacles and roll around them. In the horizontal plane, the ski turns together with the fist from the action of the steering rods when the steering wheel is turned. The skis do not have undercuts (or, as they are often called, “knives”), but this does not affect handling much, since the skis themselves are quite narrow.

The steering is typical for snowmobiles with two steering skis and ATVs: a motorcycle-type handlebar, a steering shaft with a bipod, and transverse links with swivel fists- already similar to automobile ones. The peculiarity of the steering shaft was noted above - it is “crooked”.

So, as the engine was going to use 6-10 l/s, and the weight of the snowmobile should be small, it’s categorically clear from a genuine track for snowmobiles categorically refused. I was going to make a caterpillar myself, about 4 meters long and 50 cm wide, but I was by no means able to purchase a suitable size conveyor belt, so I had to make a shorter caterpillar about 2.7 m long. The width of the caterpillar was 47 cm. To make the caterpillar, I made a jig, which I used to make holes in the conveyor belt with a feather drill.

In the store I purchased four wheels from a trolley with bearings, two soft stars from BURAN, and two 205 bearings for the drive shaft, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 40 mm. 8 meters long, I found everything else for building a snowmobile in the barn, a 25X25mm square pipe from an old office desk for the frame, trimming corners, water pipes and couplings.

I made drawings for the turner and a week later they made the necessary parts for me. The assembly process is clear from the photographs, everything is very simple, and the principle of operation of the future snowmobile is approximately the following: on a hard surface (rolled tracks) the snowmobile moves on wheels, the ski, which is located inside the track, does not touch the tracks, only its sides prevent the track from moving to the side, thereby There is no additional load and wear on the tracks without lubricating the tracks with snow, and in loose snow the emphasis is on the ski.

During the first day off, I made a caterpillar and a drive shaft, and secured it to the frame, since the turner did not have time to make shafts for the wheels.

I made the rotation of the skis very simple; I welded water couplings to the transverse beam of the frame; they screwed into them the brackets with the mount for the skis and steering rod. Therefore, everything is very simple and reliable, no bushings or turning work, only the presence of solid oil and a long service life are ensured, and by turning the shank out and in, you can adjust the height of the ski stand.

The front wheels are fastened without adjustment, the rear wheels are fastened by moving the axle and the track is tensioned.

The steering rod is solid and not adjustable (this is a temporary option)

Adjusting the chain by moving the engine.

SEE THE PHOTOS (WHEN YOU CLICK ON THE PHOTO THEY ENLARGER)

This is what I got, unfortunately I haven’t had time to install the support ski inside the caterpillar yet, but I’ve already ridden on the surface of the snow and it’s too early to draw conclusions, but even without the support ski the tracks hold the snowmobile and don’t fall into the axle box, which is clearly visible in photos, so far I’m happy with the result, the design turned out to be very light. I haven’t cut the frame yet, I want to check how a short caterpillar will behave in deep and loose snow, the distance between the skis can be reduced, and I want to install the engine with a variator of 125 cm3 from a scooter, or 150 cm3 in a few days at the speed of an ATV, but of course, of course, I’ll work on the design no, but this will probably happen by next winter, but who knows.

As soon as winter begins in our country, given the climate, two-wheeled vehicles are put away in the garage until spring. It may be impossible to use a car for transportation due to heavy snow. And here to the aid of all motorists who want to move around snowy road, comes a snowmobile on tracks, which you can make from a walk-behind tractor with your own hands.

Not everyone has the opportunity to buy an additional vehicle, but everyone can independently construct a homemade tracked snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor.

Advantages and features of a homemade snowmobile

The vehicle is mechanically driven and crawler walk-behind tractor, when driving which you will not get stuck in snowdrifts.
Control occurs through skis, and steering system is located in front, so you can easily control it.
Price when buying this or that vehicle important. Therefore, if you do the math, the cost of making a snowmobile yourself will be five times lower than buying it from the manufacturer. And it will be even cheaper due to the available walk-behind tractor and other parts.
Reliability – where a person cannot pass and a car cannot pass, the snowmobile will overcome all obstacles with ease.
If a snowmobile is made by hand, then the designer is very careful in choosing parts. By doing everything yourself, you are responsible for the quality of your design. In addition, by paying great attention to the components of the mechanism, you make the snowmobile all-terrain.

Construction of a homemade motoblock snowmobile

This is a sought-after invention that you can make yourself if you have quality parts. The walk-behind tractor is taken partially (separate parts) or used completely. If you decide not to use it fully equipped, it needs to be welded supporting frame with rear axle, steering fork and wheels. The most difficult stage in this case is the transformation of the working shaft of the walk-behind tractor into a drive gear.

The most practical and universal solution in the manufacture of a self-propelled vehicle would be to use parts from a walk-behind tractor. You only need to remove the steering fork and engine from the finished walk-behind tractor.

The motor can be located at the rear of the structure.

Before we start self-made designs, draw a drawing, assemble all required material, prepare the tool, and you can get started. The design is quite simple and anyone can handle it; technical education and any skills are not required.

If you have not graduated from the Faculty of Engineering and find it difficult to draw up a drawing, use ours.

Drawing of a simple frame for a homemade snowmobile

The drawing shows the frame that you will need when making a snowmobile.

The walk-behind tractor in a homemade caterpillar snowmobile is the main part due to which your vehicle will move.

If everything is done correctly according to the drawing, you will get a snowmobile based on a gooseneck.

Drawing of a snowmobile frame on tracks

Making a snowmobile on caterpillar tracks with your own hands

Before starting work, decide on the tool. We can say with 100% certainty that you will need: various screwdrivers, a hammer, welding, a pipe bender (if you don’t have a ready-made frame).

Before preparing a drawing for making your own snowmobile, familiarize yourself with the standard configuration.

Frame. Every snowmobile has a frame: what more complex design, the more reliable and stronger the frame should be. The best option is to take it from an ATV, scooter or motorcycle. If you don’t have such a part, you can weld it yourself from pipes with a diameter of at least 40 mm.
Seat. The seat on the snowmobile must be durable, since the structure itself is quite low.

Mandatory condition: the seat must be made of waterproof material.

Engine. When choosing an engine, pay attention to its power. If you want a powerful snowmobile, then the engine should be like this.
Tank. A container with a volume of 10-15 liters, made of metal, is perfect for a fuel tank.
Skis. If you don’t have ready-made skis that can be adapted for a snowmobile, you can make them yourself from wood. It is better if it is at least nine-layer plywood.
Steering wheel. When choosing a steering wheel, think about your comfort. It is best if it is borrowed from a two-wheeled unit.
Caterpillars. Making the tracks is perhaps the most difficult part of the entire self-propelled vehicle.
Drive. In order for the tracks to rotate, you will need a drive - it is best in this case to use a chain from a motorcycle.

Frame

If a ready-made frame is not available, it can be easily welded from profile pipe, and give the shape using a pipe bender.

If you cannot make calculations and draw up a drawing yourself, then use the drawing from our website as an example.

Once the frame is assembled, treat it with an anti-corrosion compound and cover it with high-quality paint that will withstand both moisture and frost.

Caterpillars

Everyone who has previously designed a caterpillar walk-behind tractor on their own notes: making tracks is the most difficult process in a homemade project.

The easiest way to construct them is from car tires. This option is the most advantageous - high quality and low budget. The part is manufactured in a closed circle, so a tire rupture cannot occur.

Snowmobile tracks made from tires

Instructions for making caterpillars:

From car tire: take the tire and cut off the beads (it’s better to do this with a sharp knife). You need to cut so that the flexible part with the protector remains.

We have already considered the general layout and some ideas about the design of these devices. It's time to talk about whether it is possible to further reduce the size of the device. In other words, we’ll figure out how to make mini snowmobiles with your own hands. The videos that will be presented in this article will help you visualize the entire structure.

Let's start the review with this interesting model:

With the exception of one detail, everything else in this mini snowmobile is made by hand. How? This video explains this in detail:

As you can see, it has been analyzed in detail chassis. The original lug system is worth taking a closer look at and perhaps adopting.

Of interest is this solution:

Although this snowmobile is mini, but, as can be seen from the photo, it can be either single or double.

Distinctive features: engine from a walk-behind tractor (6 hp), caterpillar lugs made of PVC pipe are mounted on a conveyor belt, drive sprockets are removed from the Buran snowmobile, skis from Argomak (children's snow scooter), frame length - 2000 mm, center to center the distance of the rollers is 1070 mm, the width of the tracks is 470 mm, the entire assembled device weighs about 80 kg.

This mini snowmobile design is interesting:

It is noteworthy in that the engine is taken from a motor pump (163 m³), the automatic adjustment is simply blocked by a wire ring.

But such an interesting device can come from a scooter or moped:

In essence, we just have a replaceable module in a mini snowmobile.
It’s clear that you can’t just make a decent mini snowmobile with your own hands, right off the bat. Here you need these same hands to grow from the right place, you need ingenuity, plumbing skills, knowledge of physics in the end (at least at the level of high school). But, let’s agree, when a ready-made one, built independently, drives normally in the snow - that’s cool.

The information you receive will help you avoid the most common mistakes. By the way, you need to take a frost-resistant tape, otherwise there may be problems at low temperatures.

How to dock a caterpillar? Two ways.

At the joint. We cut the tape along the lug, cut it flush with the tape, carefully join it, and install the brackets in place (conveyor belt linings).
Overlapping (the easiest way). We cut the tape in the right place and connect it with bolts (up to six pieces).

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