After replacing the fluid in the power steering, it became harder to turn the steering wheel. Power steering buzzes Power steering buzzes when cold

06.07.2013, 10:04

Tubers, I changed the fluid in the power steering, and it seems that it has become harder to turn the steering wheel: search:
how so? does this even happen? :search:

Eustathius

06.07.2013, 10:26

what kind of slurry did you pour in?

06.07.2013, 10:37

PSF 2, code 08206-9002, 1 l

Added after 2 minutes 48 seconds
It should be the other way around after the replacement, but it only got worse(((

06.07.2013, 10:47

:russian: I guess they’re right, don’t go there. I wanted to too, but now I’ll think more:sad:

06.07.2013, 10:49

06.07.2013, 10:54

yeah, I agree with you... I’ll try to get the air out again, and then we’ll see.
write how you pumped it after the replacement?

06.07.2013, 11:04

I had exactly the same bullshit after my shift. Only recently I solved the problem: I changed the drive belt. Although the old one was not very stretched, after replacing it I immediately felt that the steering wheel turned easier.

But I don’t know how to connect the fluid replacement and the belt. But the fact remains...

06.07.2013, 11:06

everything is as written here:

Added after 52 seconds
changed the drive belt
I will also change it this week, I have already ordered it, maybe it will help....

06.07.2013, 11:07

But I don’t know how to connect the fluid replacement and the belt. But the fact remains...
Well, if the belt wears out, it can simply slip and it won’t be noticeable. So everything will be explained

06.07.2013, 11:08

After replacing the belt, I will write about the solution to the problem.

06.07.2013, 11:08

everything is as written here:
1. With the steering wheel in the middle position, run the engine for 10–15 seconds.
2. Stop the engine without turning it steering wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way in one direction.
4. Unscrew the air release valve on the steering gear.
5. Without turning the valve, turn the steering wheel all the way in the other direction. In this case, air should come out of the valve, and then liquid.
6. Without touching the steering wheel, close the air release valve.
7. After adding oil to the tank, start the engine and turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, without holding it in extreme positions. After air bubbles stop appearing in the tank, stop the engine.

8. Add fluid to the level near the top mark on the dipstick of the cap of the non-separable tank...

9. ...or to the level of the mesh in the collapsible tank.

06.07.2013, 11:22

Well, if the belt wears out, it can simply slip and it won’t be noticeable. So everything will be explained

No, no, I mean: why exactly did it start spinning tighter after changing the liquid? After all, before it was replaced, everything was fine on the same stretched belt

06.07.2013, 12:50

did you flush the system?? mesh?

06.07.2013, 16:35

No, no, I mean: why exactly did it start spinning tighter after changing the liquid? After all, before it was replaced, everything was fine on the same stretched belt
As a rule, the operator)) of the equipment always does not say something - this is a feature of human nature.

08.07.2013, 08:46

Guys, maybe because of the heating of the engine, compressor, or whatever, the steering wheel becomes tight in place? In the morning on a cold day the steering wheel turns easily in place.

08.07.2013, 10:57

SHTYPMAH, Check your tank, it has a filter at the bottom, it gets clogged with all sorts of dirt... There are some assholes who tear it up (why, it’s not clear). You can replace the tank with a new one, it is not expensive, the original costs 800 rubles.

08.07.2013, 11:48

Drobovik, I understand. I will watch. It all started after the current rack was rebuilt.

08.07.2013, 11:54

MoscowMitino, this is easy to check - stand on a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will turn easily. Then raise the speed to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and try turning the steering wheel again at idle, it will be difficult to turn. If you wait a couple more minutes, it will spin again.

If everything is so, then the valve, try to select a spring and replace it with a tighter one, or sharpen the valve if there are burrs on it.

08.07.2013, 12:22

This is easy to check - stand on a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will turn easily. Then raise the speed to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and try turning the steering wheel again at idle, it will be difficult to turn. If you wait a couple more minutes, it will spin again.

08.07.2013, 13:02

Same problem as MoscowMitino

Added after 3 minutes 37 seconds

When the car is warm, the steering wheel turns hard!!! even if you stand for a couple or more minutes. can only be cured by cooling the car...i.e. turn off the engine for 30 minutes or more... then, while driving around the city, the same problem occurs again, the steering wheel starts to turn tightly... if the air temperature is 26 degrees or less, then everything is humming with the rack... by the way, this appeared after rack repair after leak...
P.S. Maybe a power steering pump repair kit and repair?

The repair kit didn’t help me (and there isn’t one, you need to order all the rubber bands separately), I replaced all the rubber bands except the bearing and the largest rubber band next to it. Do I understand correctly that if you drive at night, when the air temperature is, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?

After rebuilding the pump, my power steering stopped working altogether on a warm car. I replaced the upper spring in the pump with a similar one, only oak. It became noticeably better, but the problem was not solved (I have not sharpened my valve yet and have not yet found a suitable lower spring). I took the upper spring from Auto49; it is a couple of mm longer and much tighter.

Now after high speed The power steering doesn't work well, but it comes off after a couple of minutes. Hence the assumption that it is the valve that is sticking... Yes.. and also, when you unscrew the plug from below with a hexagon, behind which there is a valve with a spring, then if you press on the valve and release it, it should fly out into your hand... I have this not happening

08.07.2013, 13:02

I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just sits running for about 30 minutes... and then drive.... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed the following thing: I braked, I stood in a traffic jam for a minute or two. ..then I turn the steering wheel slightly (it seems to the right) and hear some kind of click...I turn slightly to the right and left, the click does not repeat itself...it repeats after some time...maybe 5 minutes, or maybe 7... etc....

08.07.2013, 13:04

trooman, Try to find a pump at the disassembly site. Where they give a guarantee for verification. You install it and if it doesn’t work, you return it and say that it doesn’t work.

When disassembled, the pump costs around 6 thousand.

Added after 57 seconds
I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just sits running for about 30 minutes... and then drive.... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed the following thing: I braked, I stood in a traffic jam for a minute or two. ..then I turn the steering wheel slightly (it seems to the right) and hear some kind of click...I turn slightly to the right and left, the click does not repeat itself...it repeats after some time...maybe 5 minutes, or maybe 7... etc....

The clicking sound is most likely the valve sticking.

08.07.2013, 13:05

08.07.2013, 13:27

91370-SV4-000
91349-PNC-J01
91349-PNC-003
91348-P2A-003
91346-PLA-003
91345-RJL-003
91345-PAA-A01
91344-PNC-003
91343-PNC-003
91249-PNC-003
91048-P2A-003 - bearing

This is what I ordered.
You can attach a diagram and write which rubber band has which number. This is already on the forum, people have written.

If I were you, I would first try the option of disassembling and testing the pump.

08.07.2013, 13:31

ok, thanks again!

Added after 11 minutes 24 seconds
Do I understand correctly that if you drive at night, when the air temperature is, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is buzzing :)

08.07.2013, 14:03

08.07.2013, 15:19

so) it’s already more interesting. And I thought that it was my own fault, because... the slurry left the rack and my pump began to howl, but I almost immediately topped up the step-up (which was at hand). After the bulkhead, replacement with the original fluid, and suddenly such garbage with the pump.

Tell me, can I try to get to the valve without removing the pump?

The 10mm hexagon unscrews in 5 seconds without removing anything.

Added after 11 minutes 58 seconds
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is buzzing :)

This is very strange, I have never seen anything like this. I do not have that. The only assumption is that the metal expands when heated and when it reaches a certain temperature, the valve expands (it seems to be metal, and the walls of the body are aluminum... it seems so to me). Either something happens to the liquid when it is heated (it becomes more liquid, or vice versa - thicker).

08.07.2013, 15:49

Drobovik, Thanks for the clarification) I’ll try to take a look

08.07.2013, 17:14

It could also be because of the belt if it slips (but in this case it usually whistles).
The belt whistles in the morning, especially in wet weather and not for long.
There is no whistle when turning the steering wheel.

Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds
Is there a part code for this tank, I would be grateful.

08.07.2013, 17:31

ШTYPMAH, Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
If the belt whistles, then there is something wrong with it. Try splashing water on it when it starts whistling. If it stops immediately, I advise you to replace it. Is the belt visually frayed?

08.07.2013, 17:59

Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
Senkyu:friends:
Is the belt visually frayed?
Like an old whore:russian:
I'll change it this week, I'm waiting for the parts

10.07.2013, 08:39

Like an old whore
lol

10.07.2013, 09:55

And about the belt. They changed my belt, for the first 2-3 days it whistled...they explained to me that the working fluid got on it (such as oil or fluid), and it would disappear as soon as the fluid evaporated...well, that’s what happened, after 2 day the whistle passed. Right now everything is great in this regard. Can I be bothered by replacing the belt? or money down the drain?

What kind of crooked masters are these? How could the slurry get on it if they only changed the belt?)) Maybe they just re-tightened it?
Why change the new belt again?) This one will still work.

10.07.2013, 11:10

yes, the story there is actually funny!!!))) they made the engine for me, before me the owner did it at the hands of left-handed craftsmen - the car stood in service for 2-3 months while spare parts were coming... they changed the tires, installed a used one, but how Then it turned out that they installed a knee from a 2.0 chord, and I have a 2.4))) well, they took the engine apart 2 times and then, in fact, they poured something on it))) in general, something like this: search:: smile3:

Added after 1 minute 32 seconds
although I must say that even with the knee from the 2.0 accord, the car drove without trouble, the engine ran smoothly, but was not a gem)))

10.07.2013, 11:18

trooman, in general, of course, the story with the knee was not very funny. simply handsome

02.08.2013, 13:32

4. Unscrew the air release valve on the steering gear.
Guys, where exactly is this valve located?

02.08.2013, 15:04

I join Kolyan’s question!)

02.08.2013, 20:44

I noticed one peculiarity in myself: when you stand still at idle, you gently turn the steering wheel by 5-10 degrees, while the revolutions drop by 100-150, and when the revolutions stabilize, there is a push in the steering wheel in the opposite direction, what is this?

02.08.2013, 20:49

Frost174, this is normal when the hydraulics begin to put pressure on the steering mechanism under load, the pressure is compensated by the alternator belt and the speed increases so that the steering wheel can turn the wheels

04.08.2013, 11:37

05.08.2013, 07:26

06.10.2013, 17:37

Please tell me the part number for this belt. I can’t find it on existential in the catalogue.

07.10.2013, 17:56

Tell me about the location of the valve, I looked all over the mechanism and didn’t see anything similar to the valve.
under the hood on the left
Please tell me the part number for this belt. I can’t find it on existential in the catalogue.
38920-RBB-E03

07.10.2013, 19:18

The fact that the speed is falling, I agree that this is the norm. But why after a second is there a push in the steering wheel in the opposite direction?
The speed should not drop at least - for this there is a sensor on the high pressure hose.
and pushing in the opposite direction is also not normal

22.10.2013, 09:49

The level is normal.
Please help:help:

22.10.2013, 10:13

ШTYPMAH, is everything okay with your rack? Doesn't leak, doesn't the steering wheel bite?

22.10.2013, 10:29

Yoklmn...winter has come, the temperature has dropped to -5 and now the steering wheel has finally become tight in the cold like a g@ndon in Soviet times:pioneer:
Can anyone tell me where to drip? maybe the slurry of Chinese Lichen? Although I bought it from a trusted and well-known store: Russian_roulette:
The level is normal.
Please help:help:

To start, do complete replacement liquid, fortunately it is inexpensive.... I met a couple of similar cases here on the forum and after a banal replacement everything went away!
As they say, trying is not torture: smile3:

22.10.2013, 10:48

Is everything okay with your rack?
ttt, everything is ok.
Doesn't the steering wheel bite?
how is this?
First, do a complete fluid change.
I'll try! maybe it will help.

22.10.2013, 12:00

ttt, everything is ok.

How is this?

22.10.2013, 13:08

This is when you turn the steering wheel, and it turns jerkily, or in one direction it’s normal, but in the other it’s tight, or the steering wheel pulls the car in one direction.
Something like that
It's expensive to pull the car around curves, and the steering wheel turns easier after you've driven it than in the morning.
How to check the rack if visually everything is ok and no leaks are visible?

22.10.2013, 17:08

I remembered that I bought the liquid for hydrach at a service center, maybe they sold it..... I’ll change the liquid and let you know what and how.

Vyacheslav33

27.10.2013, 15:04

Yesterday I changed the power steering fluid at 75,000 km and the steering wheel became noticeably easier to turn, this is the original Honda fluid

30.10.2013, 12:26

The cold weather also came, and a problem appeared: the steering wheel began to become dull. i.e. the power steering works periodically, sometimes it doesn’t, at low speeds it works every other time! Help me find or repair the pump!

30.10.2013, 12:37

Danil1989, there is a possibility that the problem is in the rack. Replacing the pump and high pressure hose did not help me.

30.10.2013, 12:55

and what does the rack have to do with it? the pump either works or doesn't

30.10.2013, 13:08

I would like to understand this too. Even on a new pump, it is also cut off at idle speed. Sometimes it's ok.

05.11.2013, 12:03

Yes, in fact, today at the service they said that this kind of garbage could actually happen because of the rack) like there are valves in the racks and they get clogged there and such a drizzle begins!

Added after 1 minute 59 seconds
I’m wondering what to do: either climb into the river or change the pump or change the non-original hose too! In short, the Honda is laid up, after 4 days I have to go on a long trip, but the Honda let me down (

05.11.2013, 12:15

danil1989, the hose is not original to change. It can kill the pump. The last option I have left is the rack. But I won’t do it anymore, because... After the renovation, this bad thing began. Right now I’ll save up for a new makhana.

05.11.2013, 13:44

MoscowMitino, I replaced the rack with a restored one, it became better, but the problem was not solved. The pump will arrive soon. I'll replace it and tell you.

05.11.2013, 14:11

05.11.2013, 15:06

Drobovik, I hope it helps. Is the pump new or contract?
Cardone is an American one from eBay, they refurbish pumps and sell them as new.

05.11.2013, 18:07

what website is this carbon fiber to order?

06.11.2013, 12:59

danil1989, search on ebay dot com using the keywords "
Cardone Industries 21-5419"

I took a 2006 Accord 2.4 EXE

07.11.2013, 11:01

07.11.2013, 14:23

Is Cardone Industries 21-5419 original? and how can I find it on ebay?

Cardon was never original, it’s already aftermarket.
Don't hesitate, open Google and search:

LINK! (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ebay%20+%20Cardone%20Industries%2021-5419)

07.11.2013, 18:19

07.11.2013, 23:12

But what if we install a pump from Accura and order from ebay, is there from 1,500 to 7,000? Does anyone have any experience?

Pyatnetzzo seems to have not arrived yet:pleasantry:

10.11.2013, 11:25

Has anyone installed Cardone or any other analogues? Here, according to the technical facts, MSG produces an analogue for only 5000! How is he not aware?
http://www.exist.ru/price.aspx?pid=3170A2A6&sr=29&cn=Honda_Accord_%D1%81%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%BD_VII _2.0

10.11.2013, 16:40

help me choose a good analogue, the existent gives out the current original! power steering pump needed VIN BODY JHMCL76408C203896 Honda Accord 2007 2.0l 155hp

12.11.2013, 16:41

what is the original or an analogue?

30.09.2014, 14:12

everything is as written here:
1. With the steering wheel in the middle position, run the engine for 10–15 seconds.
2. Stop the engine without turning the steering wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way in one direction.
4. Unscrew the air release valve on the steering gear.
5. Without turning the valve, turn the steering wheel all the way in the other direction. In this case, air should come out of the valve, and then liquid.
6. Without touching the steering wheel, close the air release valve.
7. After adding oil to the tank, start the engine and turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, without holding it in its extreme positions. After air bubbles stop appearing in the tank, stop the engine.

8. Add fluid to the level near the top mark on the dipstick of the cap of the non-separable tank...

9. ...or to the level of the mesh in the collapsible tank.

It could also be because of the belt if it slips (but in this case it usually whistles).

MoscowMitino, you most likely have a problem with the pump, namely with the valve, which is located at the bottom of the pump. He gets stuck in a gutter along which he moves up and down.

04.10.2014, 20:28

8. Add fluid to the level near the top mark on the dipstick of the cap of the non-separable tank...

9. ...or to the level of the mesh in the collapsible tank.
Tell me, I'm interested in point number 4. What does this VALVE look like? AIR RELEASE,a then after rebuilding the rack, my steering wheel feels like it’s not original. I think I filled the original one, but not using the above technology, or rather, not everything as indicated. I didn’t hang the wheels and didn’t open the air release valve, but everything else is the same.

Added after 7 minutes 11 seconds

What kind of valve is this, please tell me? better photo what it looks like. I would be grateful and are there any rules, following which, you should turn this valve. I mean the procedure. Thanks in advance

04.10.2014, 21:32

The fluid in the power steering is changed by displacement without any starting of the engine. It's best to do it together. One constantly turns the steering wheel, and the second adds fresh fluid and monitors the flow of old fluid. Wait until fresh, transparent water flows. To replace this you need 2 liters of liquid. I was convinced of this on personal experience. If someone says that a liter is enough, then, as they say, the flag is in their hands. But in a good way, rinse more!

The wheels naturally need to be hung, this greatly speeds up the process. The entire replacement takes 15 minutes!
So there is no need to turn any valves, which is the first time I’ve ever heard about them. Well, there is no air in the system: smile3:

04.10.2014, 23:29

Oh how... Vetal, where should I pour the new liquid? If it's in the reservoir, how will it be pumped into the system without starting the engine?
If only you pour it straight into the ShVD)))

Everything is banally simple:

04.10.2014, 23:59

Everything is banally simple:

1) raise the front of the car on both sides so that the front wheels do not touch the ground.

2) remove the washer fluid reservoir from the grooves and stupidly move it to the side so as not to get in the way.

3) Open the power steering reservoir and use a syringe to pump out 20 cubic meters as much as possible from the reservoir.

4) Remove the power steering reservoir from the grooves where it is held.

5) Place rags under the tank in advance, maybe more, so that the slurry doesn’t spill on the body

6) Using regular pliers, spread the clamps apart and remove both hoses from the tank. ATAS! Liquid may leak from the lower pipe if you lower the hose lower. At this moment, it is better to try to drain it from the hose into a small jar. About 50 grams will leak out there.

7) In an amicable way, rinse the power steering reservoir well FAIRY, do not forget that there is a MESH in the reservoir 3 centimeters from the bottom! for filtering dirt and chips.

8) You put the washed and DRYED tank back on the entrance!!! pipe using the same pliers. There is nothing complicated there. The inlet pipe, which goes directly to the power steering pump, is short and quite flexible, so it won’t be bent or broken.

9) This is an important point: you put the incoming pipe coming from below into some kind of container. I used a 400 gram plastic butter box.:rofl:

10) You pour out a new bottle that is EXCLUSIVELY ORIGINAL!!! Honda slurry to the very top of the tank!

10) You shout to your partner to start vigorously turning the steering wheel from lock to lock!

11) You watch the level of liquid in the tank and top it up without letting the tank empty.

12) watch the vessel with old slurry so that it doesn’t climb over the top.

13) Thus you need to pour in 6! bottles of 0.356 mg. original liquid.

14) When finished, put the pipe back in place and put the tank in place

IMPORTANT: do not pour out the entire last bottle and leave the essence in the tank half a centimeter above the maximum. After starting the car the level will become lower.

That's the whole procedure. By the way, not counting the lifting of the front end, the process of replacing the fluid itself takes 10-15 minutes. Everything is quite easy and fast.

It's simple physics, we replace the old slurry with new!

And to answer your question - the LIQUID will go into the system itself when the steering wheel is rotated from lock to lock! WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE!!

Added after 3 minutes 10 seconds
AND ELSE - after such a replacement, my little boy stopped jumping around when accelerating and hitting the floor! It got better, definitely!

So so so)))...
I don’t argue about physics)
I am most interested in how the slurry will pass through this very pump when the pump is not working (i.e., the pulley does not spin, therefore there is no pressure???) Purely just a sporting interest) Or can the slurry go through a non-working pump??? But again... she needs to pump herself up somehow, the pump is higher than the tank... Physics, traction or mysticism)))...
By the way, if I understood everything correctly from the replacement algorithm, it will be necessary to temporarily plug the flange on the tank (to which, after replacement, the return pipe will be connected, through which we control the displacement of the old liquid to the new one) so that the new liquid does not flow out of it))) ...

Difficult arranged system, which requires periodic attention from the owner. The liquid that is poured into the tank and is the basis for the functioning of the system has a certain service life, after which it loses its properties and turns into an incomprehensible mixture. In this article you will learn what problems may arise after replacing the power steering fluid, why the steering wheel becomes tight or too light, as well as the reasons for such manifestations.

The steering wheel began to turn tighter

Increased steering wheel effort can occur for a number of reasons. Some of the main ones:

A belt that is worn or not tight enough is not creating enough pressure to operate the pump.
Lack of fluid in the power steering reservoir.
Clogged filter liquids or airiness in the system.
Insufficient idle speed.
Failure of steering system elements.

Most often, problems with the power steering appear when the car is running. This is how the oil enters the system, heats up and performs its functions. It is important to carry out any diagnostics of the power steering while suspended in order to reduce the load on the steering elements.

Important! When replacing, you must use only the original fluid. Counterfeit oil can cause problems with the power steering and lead to costly repairs.

Also, the steering wheel may require additional effort only when cornering, but during the rest of the movement it fully performs its functions. In this case It is necessary to diagnose the steering rack.

Air got into the power steering

In this case, the steering wheel simply does not obey, and it is impossible to drive the car. If you need to turn sharply, you will have to make a lot of effort. Vibration also occurs when turning to one side. It is necessary to find the place where the system was depressurized and fix the problem, then remove the air or bleed the system.

Something's clogged the valve

If the valve is clogged, the hydraulic booster will work with little effort, which means that the driver will be able to rotate the wheel only if he applies more effort. It is difficult, and turning left or right will require some force. From time to time, various particles of dirt get into the oil or sediment forms from the use of additives.

Did you know?In 2013, a record was recorded for the mileage of a car that is in working condition. It was installed on a Volvo 1900 S, which at that time had driven 4,828,032 km (equivalent to 120 trips around the world).

All this can scratch the walls of the pump or render the gaskets and pipes of the system unusable, which reduces performance.

Filled with non-original oil

It is impossible to turn the steering wheel without additional effort. The wrong liquid can cause great harm all elements of the system, such as gaskets, pipes, as well as all surfaces of the pump. It is necessary to select and fill the liquid correctly.

It is recommended to replace the power steering fluid at a specialized car service center. The masters know typical problems hydraulic booster, have the necessary equipment, tools and knowledge to correct problems or carry out planned procedures

Liquid leak

The steering wheel turns too hard or too easily. The unbalanced operation of the entire steering mechanism is noticeable. At insufficient level power steering fluid will stop working completely. It is necessary to check the hoses, eliminate leaks, restore tightness and bleed the system.

Power steering wear

Unbalanced operation of the steering mechanism. At the same time, the steering wheel rotates with great effort. Additionally, there is a very strong hum, which intensifies when cornering.

It is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of all components and, if necessary, repair or replace them.

The steering wheel has become lighter

After changing the oil in the power steering, the driver may notice that the steering wheel has become quite easy to control. If no errors were made during the technical work, this is caused by a change in the type of fluid in the system.

For each car, the manufacturer designates a recommended oil with its own chemical composition, depending on the characteristics of the steering elements. Oil transmits force when exposed to pressure and lubricates rubbing parts. Accordingly, if the density and viscosity are insufficient, oil will not be created. required pressure in the system, and the steering wheel will turn easily.

Video: Why change power steering oil, signs, consequences, fluid test

However, there are a number of other reasons why the steering wheel may become easier to control. If the fluid was replaced with a similar one in compliance with all the rules, then it is necessary to diagnose the elements in order to find the reason for this behavior of the steering wheel.

Unusual controls

A properly functioning car steering system is the basis for safety while driving. Excessive lightness of the steering wheel, even if it is not caused by technical failures in the system, can lead to. The initial reason for this is a problem in handling, since the car becomes more harsh during maneuvers and there is significant sensitivity when driving even in a straight direction. In other words, the car is out of the driver's control. A minor bump, hole or quickly emerging obstacle for a car with an unnaturally light steering wheel can cause an emergency situation. In addition, the wear of the hydraulic booster increases, which entails its rapid replacement and related elements.

Did you know?In 2010, a Volkswagon Scirocco managed to travel the 337 km from London to Manchester solely on coffee. The modified car processed coffee granules, turning them into carbon dioxide and hydrogen, while the car could reach speeds of up to 100 km/h with a fuel consumption of 56 cups of espresso.

Oil viscosity mismatch

The viscosity of power steering fluid is one of the main indicators. There are several types of oils on the market that have different chemical composition and for convenience they are painted in different colors. Automakers in technical documentation indicate the preferred oil for each car model. When replacing, it is recommended to fill in the same fluid, since the operating pressure created in the power steering directly depends on its consistency.

Every car owner has a desire to change fluid from one type to another, either to improve performance or to save money. When oil that is not as thick as it was before enters the system, this can cause a hum in the power steering pump.

Power steering plays an important role in driving a car. Over time, some problems may arise, but if you follow the timing of changing the power steering fluid, you will extend the service life of the power steering.

August 13, 2016

Power steering (power steering) is an integral part of the car, the purpose of which is to optimize handling vehicle and its operation. Comfort and, most importantly, safety of the driving process depend on the performance of the hydraulic booster.

Malfunction of the power steering can be caused by the following malfunctions:

leakage of the steering system,
hose damage,
natural wear and tear of parts.

All of the above facts lead to the need for qualified repairs.

Power Steering Troubleshooting

Possible reasons why the power steering does not work and how to eliminate them are discussed below.

Reverse shocks on the steering wheel (kickback)

A possible reason is low tension on the pump drive belt, or the belt is worn out. Eliminating such a malfunction will not take a significant amount of time and money, because it is necessary to replace the belt or adjust its tension.

The steering wheel turns with force

If the power steering wheel turns tightly, there may be several reasons for this malfunction:

low tension of the pump drive belt (adjust the tension),
low (critical) fluid level in the power steering reservoir (add fluid),
the power steering reservoir filter is clogged (replace the filter),
low operating pressure of the power steering pump (replace or repair the pump),
air in the power steering (remove accumulated air and check for leaks).

The power steering fluid must be topped up with the fluid that was originally filled. To do this, it is better to store the container in which the liquid was sold.

Rotating the wheel requires effort

There is only one reason for such a malfunction of the power steering - a malfunction of the pump. Remedy - check and repair the pump, replace its seals.

The steering wheel rotates with great effort in the middle position

pump malfunction, which can be eliminated by replacing the part or repairing it,
mechanical failure - it is recommended to diagnose the steering system.

Vibration

Possible causes of the malfunction:

mechanical damage, dangerous condition of tires (identify defective tires, repair them or replace them with new ones),
air entering the hydraulic system (remove air after first establishing the cause of its entry).

Noise during operation

Causes of malfunction:

low level of power steering fluid in the reservoir (fix the leak, check for leaks and add fluid),
damage (wear) of high and low pressure hoses (in this case, check the hoses and replace the damaged ones),
accumulation of fluid through the safety valve is accompanied by a whistling sound when the steering wheel is in the extreme position (check the operation of the pump, if it fails, replace it).

Unclear steering operation

violation of the geometry of the steering drive (it is necessary to check the condition of the tires),
wear of steering parts (visually check the condition of parts and assemblies, eliminate their malfunctions),
fluid leak (check for leaks).

As can be seen from the listed malfunctions, most often the power steering does not work well due to fluid leakage, which serves as lubricant. At the same time, the car begins to “hum” intensely, and when the steering wheel is turned, this hum intensifies, so when the fluid level drops, it is necessary to urgently look for the leak, otherwise the pump will fail, and this part is a very expensive pleasure.

Power steering, as mentioned above, affects chassis car, so it good work- the key to a successful trip. If you suspect that the power steering is not working correctly, it is recommended to stop driving and continue after repairing the power steering.

Power steering is a complex system that requires periodic attention from the owner. The liquid that is poured into the tank and is the basis for the functioning of the system has a certain service life, after which it loses its properties and turns into an incomprehensible mixture. In this article you will learn what problems may arise after replacing the power steering fluid, why the steering wheel becomes tight or too light, as well as the reasons for such manifestations.

The steering wheel began to turn tighter. Air got into the power steering. Something clogged the valve. It wasn’t flooded. original oil Fluid leakage Power steering steering wheel has become lighter Video: Why change power steering oil, signs, consequences, fluid test Unusual control Oil viscosity mismatchvar index=document.getElementsByClassName ("index-post");if (index.length>0) (var contents=index .getElementsByClassName ( "contents");if (contents.length>0) (contents=contents; if (localStorage.getItem ("hide-contents") === "1") (contents.className+=" hide-text")))

The steering wheel began to turn tighter

Increased steering wheel effort can occur for a number of reasons. Some of the main ones:

A belt that is worn or not tight enough is not creating enough pressure to operate the pump. Lack of fluid in the power steering reservoir. The fluid filter is clogged or the system is airy. Insufficient idle speed. Failure of steering system elements.

Important! When replacing, you must use only the original fluid. Counterfeit oil can cause problems with the power steering and lead to costly repairs.

Also, the steering wheel may require additional effort only when cornering, but during the rest of the movement it fully performs its functions. In this case, it is necessary to diagnose the steering rack.

Air got into the power steering

In this case, the steering wheel simply does not obey, and it is impossible to drive the car. If you need to turn sharply, you will have to make a lot of effort. Vibration also occurs when turning to one side. It is necessary to find the place where the system was depressurized and fix the problem, then remove the air or bleed the system.

Something's clogged the valve

When the valve is clogged, the hydraulic booster will work with little effort, which means that the driver will be able to rotate the wheel only if he applies more effort. It is difficult to park the car and turning left or right will require some force. From time to time, various particles of dirt get into the oil or sediment forms from the use of additives.

Did you know? In 2013, a record was recorded for the mileage of a car that is in working condition. It was installed on a Volvo 1900 S, which at that time had driven 4,828,032 km (equivalent to 120 trips around the world).

All this can scratch the walls of the pump or render the gaskets and pipes of the system unusable, which reduces performance.

Filled with non-original oil

It is impossible to turn the steering wheel without additional effort. An unsuitable fluid can cause great damage to all elements of the system, such as gaskets, pipes, as well as all surfaces of the pump. It is necessary to select and fill the liquid correctly.

It is recommended to replace the power steering fluid at a specialized car service center. Our technicians know typical power steering problems and have the necessary equipment, tools and knowledge to correct problems or carry out planned procedures.

Liquid leak

The steering wheel turns too hard or too easily. The unbalanced operation of the entire steering mechanism is noticeable. If the fluid level is insufficient, the power steering will stop working completely. It is necessary to check the hoses, eliminate leaks, restore tightness and bleed the system.

Worn power steering Unbalanced operation of the steering mechanism. At the same time, the steering wheel rotates with great effort. Additionally, there is a very strong hum, which intensifies when cornering.

Repairing fluid leaks in the power steering

Why is there noise from the power steering and how to get rid of it?

How to replace power steering on a car with your own hands

How to fill oil into the hydraulic booster?

Do-it-yourself power steering replacement

It is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of all components and, if necessary, repair or replace them.

The steering wheel has become lighter

For each car, the manufacturer designates a recommended oil with its own chemical composition, depending on the characteristics of the steering elements. Oil transmits force when exposed to pressure and lubricates rubbing parts. Accordingly, if the density and viscosity of the oil is insufficient, the required pressure will not be created in the system, and the steering wheel will turn easily.

Video: Why change power steering oil, signs, consequences, fluid test

However, there are a number of other reasons why the steering wheel may become easier to control. If the fluid was replaced with a similar one in compliance with all the rules, then it is necessary to diagnose the steering control elements in order to find the reason for this behavior of the steering wheel.

Unusual controls

A properly functioning car steering system is the basis for safety while driving. Excessive lightness of the steering wheel, even if it is not caused by technical failures in the system, can lead to an accident. The initial reason for this is a problem in handling, since the car becomes more harsh during maneuvers and there is significant sensitivity when driving even in a straight direction. In other words, the car is out of the driver's control. A minor bump, hole or quickly emerging obstacle for a car with an unnaturally light steering wheel can cause an emergency situation. In addition, the wear of the hydraulic booster increases, which entails its rapid replacement and related elements.

Did you know? In 2010, a Volkswagon Scirocco managed to travel the 337 km from London to Manchester solely on coffee. The modified car processed coffee granules, turning them into carbon dioxide and hydrogen, while the car could reach speeds of up to 100 km/h with a fuel consumption of 56 cups of espresso.

Oil viscosity mismatch

The viscosity of power steering fluid is one of the main indicators. There are several types of oils on the market, which have different chemical compositions and are colored in different colors for convenience. Car manufacturers indicate in their technical documentation the preferred oil for each car model. When replacing, it is recommended to fill in the same fluid, since the operating pressure created in the power steering directly depends on its consistency.

Good day to all! I've encountered a problem that I haven't been able to solve for two weeks now. After replacing the power steering fluid, the steering wheel became difficult to rotate.

Below I describe the entire process.

Even from the moment of purchase, the power steering pump was leaking, and the fluid was at the MIN mark. Now we got around to replacing the oil seal and, accordingly, replacing the fluid.

ENEOS ATF Dexron III fluid - 522 RUB Oil seal Corteco 19029685B (dimensions 19.05 x 33.3 x 7.9 mm) - 174 RUB

I did like everyone else here who changed the oil seal. I hung up the front wheels. I pumped out the liquid from the reservoir. Unscrewed and removed the clamps. I removed the pipes. I drained all the fluid from them by turning the steering wheel back and forth. I unscrewed the pipes from the pump. I drained everything that was there from them. I removed the pump. I took everything apart piece by piece. I squeezed out the old oil seal. I cleaned the insides of the pump. I hammered in a new oil seal with a socket head.

Full size

New oil seal Corteco 19029685B

Assembled all pump parts in reverse order. I screwed the pump into place and tightened the belt. I screwed the pipes to the pump. I washed the tank and put it in place. I connected the hoses to the tank. I replaced the clamps with new ones. I slowly poured new fluid into the tank up to the MAX mark.

Full size

ENEOS ATF Dexron III fluid

Then he started pumping. At first I turned the steering wheel. Then I turned off the power from the ignition coil and turned the starter for 10 seconds and at the same time turned the steering wheel. The liquid was leaving. I topped it up with fresh water.

As soon as the liquid stopped flowing, I connected power to the coil. Continued pumping with the engine already running. After several attempts, the liquid almost did not go away. But air bubbles still remained. I turned the steering wheel again 50 degrees in one direction and the other. The air was still coming out. The slurry was foaming. The day was ending and it was time to go home. I gave up on this matter and lowered the car. The steering wheel seemed to be without hydraulic fluid. The next day I went to bleed the system, but no matter how much I turned the steering wheel, nothing really changed. I turned it 100 times in all modes, with the engine running and not running. Air bubbles were still coming out but not as bad.

Now I’m sitting here thinking about what options there might be. Is it really in the air? How long will it take to pump it in this case? I think how many times have I already turned the steering wheel, it was long gone. I'm already thinking about removing the pump to see if there's anything wrong there. Although I seem to have collected everything as it was. I don’t know what to think anymore.

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I changed the power steering fluid, the steering wheel stopped turning ((([Archive]

View full version: I changed the power steering fluid, the steering wheel stopped turning (((

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slopgib, you won’t be able to do without repairs. stop changing the fluid: -sy

At the same time, I put a meter-long copper tube (cooler) into the return gap from the rail, but what would happen without cooling? By the way, it doesn’t hum when it’s cold. I don’t have a cooler; the manufacturer considered it unnecessary. Once I even burned myself on the steering tank, I wanted to try to see if the liquid was too hot. These are the working conditions, wow.... The liquid is filled with ravenol SSF semi-synthetic. Gur works fine, pah-pah-pah)))

I don't have a cooler; the manufacturer considered it unnecessary. Once I even burned myself on the steering tank, I wanted to try to see if the liquid was too hot. These are the working conditions, wow...

put on a cooler! You just need a 10mm tube and a piece of oxygen hose, and clamps of course. I installed it behind my intercooler.

Well, here you can still argue... G004... this is G004. and except VAG members no one knows what it is!!! Why argue? replacing the original according to all reference books is definitely Phoebe 6161, but it says synthetics Phoebe 6162 does not have a VAG approval at all: mrgreen:, but being a mineral water (thicker) in dead systems it gives an improvement, but in fact, fill in the transmissions and it will become even better

Not long ago I changed the power steering pump and filled it with 6161, everything is finevosmilie:

slopgib, you won’t be able to do without repairs. stop changing the fluid: -sy can you give me a hint on what to start with the repair if it spins easily when cold?:-k

Can you give me a hint on what to start with repairs if it spins easily when cold?:-k I think by replacing the pump.

29.06.2011, 22:35

Lei! Don't worry! Yes, after reading the posts that everyone is getting worse with her, so now I’m afraid..

My mileage is already 180, and it’s not a fact that it’s original..

Yes, after reading the posts that everyone is getting worse with it, so now I’m afraid... I would be afraid too: mrgreen: or rather, that’s what I did - I filled in the original... an overpayment of 100-200 rubles for the original liquid is not critical, given what is known that many had problems with non-original liquids... it doesn’t need to be changed so often if the system is working...

kroilovo leads to podalalov... and then you will have to overpay much more: mrgreen:

despite the fact that it is known that many had problems with non-original slurries... so last year I filled up the original from Phoebe and problems began, then it hums and grunts, before that the left slurry from the step-up was yellow, there were no problems , only it darkened over time and I changed it once a year because of this (it was getting cheaper). so think about it after this :-k

Uploaded the original from Phoebe How so? Here it’s either febi or orig.

This is the whole point, pour the original.

Here it’s either febi or orig. +100500 binge: This is the whole topic, pour original. I changed it in the winter... the steering wheel in the cold was tight as soon as you started it, when it warmed up a little it became normal... it felt distinctly at -25... I changed it to an orig one (orig one from VW: mrgreen:) and everything became normal, the steering wheel turned perfectly even at -30 there was no need to wait... I was told that some people had their hoses burst due to the fact that they immediately started turning the steering wheel in the cold...

There was an idea to find out what was in the original, but I didn’t find a clear answer... and they even advised me not to experiment because of 200 rubles... even when replacing every two years, an overpayment of 200-300 rubles means nothing, but you know for sure that slurry is normbinge:

30.06.2011, 21:37

I would be afraid too: mrgreen: or rather, I did just that - I filled in the original... overpaying 100-200 rubles for the original liquid is not critical, despite the fact that it is known that many have had problems with non-original liquids... it’s not so often to change it it is necessary with a working system... cutting leads to falling... and then you will have to overpay much more: mrgreen: So my comrades from the forum convinced me that instead of G002000 ONLY Febi 06162, and no G0040000M2.

That’s why I already bought Febi.. where should I put it now?..

passatworld.ru

The power steering is hard to turn: possible reasons. Power steering repair

Today, not a single car can do without power steering (power steering), the equipment of which was carried out with a focus on the modern level of driving comfort. The hydraulic mechanism facilitates physical control of the machine while maintaining optimal feedback and compliance with safety requirements.

This is achieved by introducing an auxiliary mechanism into the steering wheel system, the technical condition of which must be regularly monitored. If, after a certain time of using a machine with such equipment, deviations in the operation of the mechanism are noticed, then you should prepare for its repair. For example, if the power steering is hard to turn, there may be several options to resolve the situation. But first you should consider the design of the mechanism and the principle of its operation.

The hydraulic booster system is multi-component, but closed. This device is partly responsible for the difficulty of repairing the structure. A typical mechanism includes a pump, a reservoir with liquid in the form of a tank, a pressure regulator, a power unit and a spool. The pump is connected to the drive system of the machine’s engine, and the pressure regulator ensures that the force flow is balanced relative to the spool. The operating pressure difference depends on the supply of control fluid.

It is this part of the functionality that in most cases leads to problems that require power steering repair in the form of correcting the position of individual parts of the structure or by updating the oil. In turn, the hydraulic cylinder interacts with the steering rack, transmitting additional force. In order for the final load required to activate the steering wheel to be balanced, the spool itself is installed on the column - in the future it will react to the torque when the driver performs manipulations.

The feeling of heaviness when steering the steering wheel does not always appear suddenly and at once. This can be a long process, during which warning signs may arise. In particular, initial diagnostics will help detect problems due to the formation of leaks, noise and excessive vibrations. Over time, a tight steering wheel will be added to this list if the same leak is not stopped and the fluid supply is replenished. Of course, the above signs may also indicate the appearance of other problems, and not only with the hydraulic booster. Therefore, general diagnostics in in this case will not be superfluous. It will also make it possible to more accurately determine and possible reason steering wheel weights.

The main reasons for a tight steering wheel

There are many factors that can lead to difficulty steering due to power steering. Each of them involves its own approach to repair. One of the most common reasons is the presence of air in the niches of the hydraulic booster. Its presence not only eliminates the main function of the mechanism, but also has the opposite effect, making the movements of the steering wheel heavier.

Another common reason is the aforementioned emptying of the expansion tank with liquid. If it was not possible to determine the reason why the power steering wheel turns tightly, then it makes sense to turn to technical condition individual system components. For example, wear of parts, especially the drive belt, could indirectly provoke a decrease in hydraulic function. In this case, a complete revision of the mechanism and, possibly, its replacement cannot be avoided. The possibility of a problem with the steering wheel itself should not be ruled out. For example, a rack connected to a gearbox can cause even more trouble in terms of repairs.

How to disassemble a tight steering wheel?

To verify the reasons why the steering wheel could become heavier, you should disassemble the mechanism. The event begins with disconnecting the pipelines that lead to expansion tank and steering system. At this point, you can drain the liquid. Next, the drive belt from the pump is removed - again, if it is in an unusable condition, then you will have to put on a new belt.

Here, three blocks for fixing the pulley suitable for the pump unit are unscrewed. But depending on the type of fastening system, there may be more. After this, access to the fixing elements of the pump itself may open. As you can see, power steering repair can be performed already at this stage by replacing the fluid, updating the hoses and the drive belt. But this may not be enough. Special attention should be paid to the filter system. Even if it performs its function properly, a violation at the cleaning stage is possible, which cannot be determined in a garage environment. Therefore, if there are no other obvious causes of the problem, it makes sense to have the filters checked in a professional workshop.

Getting rid of excess air

If the reason is the presence of excess air in the system, then in a sense we can talk about luck. True, everything here is ambiguous. Most often, this problem is solved by several turns of the steering wheel, brought to the stop. Moreover, this action is performed in both directions. As practice shows, this allows you to push out excess air from the hydraulic communications. But if even after this action the steering wheel turns hard, then the tank is more likely to become airy. This means that the system works with liquid in which bubbles are present. This factor determines the lack of ease of use of the steering wheel. A complete renewal of the fluid in the expansion tank will help eliminate this problem.

Fluid replacement

To do this, it is not necessary to completely disassemble the mechanism. First of all, you should free the two pipes leading to the expansion tank from the clamps. Also, if necessary, additional fasteners and belt communications are removed, which make access to the tank difficult.

The fluid can be directly replaced without completely dismantling the tank. The spent mixture is simply pumped out, after which all that remains is to pour in new auto chemicals. However, if the power steering steering wheel turns tightly and has not been checked for a long time, then it is advisable to dismantle the reservoir for subsequent diagnostics. It should be checked for leaks, then thoroughly washed and rinsed with clean water. The dried tank is installed in its place, filled with new working fluid and fixed with fasteners.

The issue of choosing power steering fluid also imposes considerable responsibility. It is advisable to give preference to synthetic hydraulic mixtures made from high-quality components. Regular machine oil is not suitable in this case. Features of specialized compositions include a sufficient degree of fluidity, viscosity and the ability to work at extreme temperatures.

Often problems of this kind occur in winter time, when the poured liquid simply cannot cope with its tasks due to freezing. Therefore, the question of which oil should be poured into the power steering should only be decided in favor of special synthetic or semi-synthetic mixtures, which usually have a dark green tint. If we talk about manufacturers, high-quality auto chemicals of this type are produced by Motul, Castrol, Pentosin, Liqui Moly, etc. The cost of the liquid is about 800-1000 rubles, but even a small canister will last for a long time, so it’s not worth saving on this resource.

How to replace a heavy steering wheel?

Dismantling the system begins with the aforementioned disconnection of all pipelines, pipes and fasteners. It is also mandatory to drain or pump out the oil poured into the expansion tank. Installation new system done in reverse order. If we're talking about about a complete renovation of the steering complex, then in this case the rack itself will have to be dismantled. Such a replacement of the power steering must be carried out in conditions where there is an installation straightening stand. The installation begins with the integration of the steering wheel, and then the hydraulic components are integrated one by one. Lastly it is poured working fluid, and elements of communication support are supplied.

Conclusion

The system for facilitating steering wheel control itself is quite complex and often causes problems precisely in identifying the reasons for its incorrect operation. If the power steering of a car that has flat tires turns tightly, it is quite possible that the problem will be due to insufficiently inflated tires.

In this situation, the difficulty is associated with the mechanics of the interaction of rubber with the coating, the effect of which is transmitted even to working hydraulics. Insufficient drive belt tension can also affect the function of the amplifier. That is, before you start repair work, the user must conduct a complete inspection of the vehicle for factors that may affect the operation of the steering column.

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Tight power steering steering - logbook Daewoo Espero =REAL-REMI= 1998 on DRIVE2

Guys, tell me what could be the matter. In general, a month ago the liquid began to leak; there were leaks at the outlet of the barrel where the thick pipe was. I thought it was a clamp, replaced it and it was still leaking... I decided to buy a new hose, it was leaking again... I took off the tank and looked at it and saw a small crack in that place. I sealed it with superglue)) it lasted for 3 weeks and it started leaking again. Yesterday I bought a tank and liquid MANNOL DEXRON III, but the problem is that I no longer remember which of the two I filled in... either DEXRON III or DEXRON II... but as I was told, in principle, III is of a higher class and there will be nothing wrong if II was filled in... but maybe I filled in III)) In short, before all the procedures, the steering wheel turned 30-40 percent easier than after. Yesterday I replaced the reservoir, drained most of the fluid and filled it with new... after starting it, pumped it (the steering wheel back and forth all the way as before), filled it up to the MAX level... there are no bubbles in the reservoir, the steering wheel does not hum, everything is OK. Just this morning I left and immediately noticed that it had become tighter... that when you stand still you twist (wound up), that when moving it is the same. When turning around, you actually had to twist it with both hands. What can be wrong? The liquid level is now 1 cm higher than the max mark. Could this have any effect?))) Who is pouring what?

PS Let me remind you once again that before replacing the reservoir the steering wheel was light, i.e. the pump is intact and all...