How to build a buggy using Niva units. How to make your own drawings of a Buggy with a VAZ engine

This buggy with all-wheel drive designed for 3-4 people. It was gathered mainly to participate in competitive events between all-terrain vehicles. According to the author's idea, the all-terrain vehicle should have maximum cross-country ability, and also remain quite light.

Materials and parts used in the construction of this all-terrain vehicle:
1) Engine from Oka
2) Wheels of the camera 1065 by 450 and stripped 9.00x16 from the PTS4 tractor cart
3) Bridges from a classic vase
4) hubs and drive shafts from VAZ 2109
5) Wheels of vases, Niva.
6) shock absorbers and springs from Oka
7) back seat from Oka
8) handbrake cable from VAZ 2109
9) from the fret "tens" throttle cable.

Let's take a closer look at the stages of all-terrain vehicle construction.

To begin with, the author dealt with the axles; the mounting brackets for the rear axle were redone.
The front axle was assembled from the rear axle of a classic VAZ, and the drive shafts and hubs were taken from a VAZ 2109
The wheel travel is about 22 cm.

Discs from the VAZ and Niva were welded to match the new wheels. The result was 16 inches with a width of 25 centimeters.

Threaded clamps were also made, sort of threaded nuts, with bolts screwed into them that help keep the tire from turning.

Drive shafts were made 87 centimeters long, the wall thickness of the seamless pipe was 3 mm, and the outer diameter was 27 mm. The shafts will be installed between the box and the bridges.

Installed rear shock absorbers, as well as front springs. the ball ones turned out to have a small gap of about 1 mm, after tightening with bolts the levers tightened.

The construction stage of the all-terrain vehicle frame is nearing completion:

The steering was done:

When the all-terrain vehicle is loaded, the shock absorbers sag by 10 centimeters and the steering becomes at a more comfortable angle. The width of the front axle turned out to be about 150 centimeters, so an Oka rear seat was installed.

Scene installed:

The shift lever is located under the left knee.

Mounted rear wheel drive Noah Val:

It was decided to shorten the gearshift lever:

The muffler has also been simplified:

The engine was installed longitudinally relative to the base, the differential was free, the left drive went to the rear axle, and the right drive, respectively, to the front axle.

The radiator was moved to the front of the all-terrain vehicle to improve airflow and, accordingly, engine cooling:
The next stage will be covering the all-terrain vehicle with plastic, as well as installing combat wheels.

The following dashboard was made:

A modified handbrake cable from a VAZ 2109 was used as a clutch cable, and a standard cable from a Lada Ten was used to drive the gas.

The muffler was attached:

Here you can see the angle of rotation of the all-terrain vehicle wheels:

Photos of diagonal hanging:

Appearance of the all-terrain vehicle:

Lightweight I-324A wheels measuring 850 by 270r16 were installed:

The following design flaws were noted:
There is too little space to install a normal passenger seat on the left side of the driver; this is mainly hampered by the radiator from the VAZ 2110. Also, not factory standard driveshafts were used, but homemade ones about 90 centimeters long. the reason for this was that the factory shafts are only 80 centimeters long, and therefore too short.

Suspension test video:

The length of the homemade shaft is about 90 centimeters with a total wheelbase of 240 centimeters. The rear universal joint from the Niva is only 80 centimeters long and it does not seem possible to lengthen it to the required standards.

In addition, the homemade shafts turned out perfectly, there are no hints of problems with them, all loads are withstood, and no twisting is observed.

If you use the rear universal joints of the Niva, then the base will be 220 centimeters, in addition, you will have to come up with a connection to the Oka gearbox, and due to the narrowing of the base, it will be inconvenient for passengers to interfere.

The GP in the gearbox is not welded, as this may affect the integrity of the drive axles; especially heavy loads will be placed on the axle shafts of the axles. Since the car will be used in harsh rally conditions, it is better not to neglect reliability.

maximum speed The all-terrain vehicle is exactly 57 kilometers per hour on a flat road, it takes about half a minute to reach this speed, the dynamics are very weak, mainly due to the Oka engine.

However, there is enough traction in first gear to slip all four wheels in the mud, but the size of these wheels is not large, only 850 mm in diameter, what will happen after installing more powerful wheels is not known.

There was an attempt to install KF-97 wheels, but due to the gap in the thresholds they do not fit, so the all-terrain vehicle will be modified to the required parameters.

In the meantime, a short folding seat was made, as well as air intakes for the radiator:

After eliminating minor shortcomings, the all-terrain vehicle changed to KF-97 wheels; they are much larger than their predecessors, which will have a positive effect on the vehicle’s cross-country ability.

Homemade buggy is one of best options teach your growing child to drive, instill a love of technology from an early age. The design of the presented buggy is simple and reliable, and also quite inexpensive. Step by step photos assemblies are included. This buggy has gasoline engine from the Sadko walk-behind tractor with a power of 6.5 l/s located at the rear of the machine; for the internal combustion engine, a separate frame is welded from a pipe and profile, which is attached to the main frame. Torque from the engine is transmitted to the gearbox, and from it through chain transmission on the driven sprocket of the rear axle driving the wheel.

The buggy frame is welded from a 22 x 1.5 mm pipe; a pipe bender was used to give the parts the desired shape. The suspension is made in an interesting way, namely the axle shafts sit rigidly on the frame, but the half frame with the engine has two twin shock absorbers from a scooter. The front suspension is also on shock absorbers from a scooter, the homemade steering is the same as on the go-karts. The rear wheels are from the domestic scooter “Tulitsa” and the front wheels are from the domestic scooter.

The engine power is enough to propel a teenager around; even adults wouldn’t mind riding a buggy)

So let's take a look design features cars

Materials

1. Gasoline internal combustion engine from the Sadko walk-behind tractor
2. gearbox
3. scooter front wheels
4. rear wheels of the Tulitsa scooter
5. pipe 22x1.5 mm
6. driven sprocket from a motorcycle
7. rear axle
8. housing bearings
9. shock absorbers 4 pcs

Tools

1. welding machine
2. drill
3. pipe bender
4. Angle grinder (grinder)
5. wrench set
6. measuring and plumbing tools
7. skillful hands and a clear head

Step-by-step photos of assembling a buggy with your own hands.
The rear axle of the buggy is made from a bored axle shaft from a ZIL car, a homemade differential, brake discs, a driven star from a motorcycle and support bearings are installed, which are actually attached to the frame holding the axle in a given position.
The front wheels are borrowed from a scooter, and the rear wheels are from the domestic scooter “Tulitsa”
PLEASE NOTE ATTENTION! The engine is mounted on a separate semi-frame, which is attached to the buggy with levers, and two shock absorbers from a scooter are mounted in the upper part, thus creating a pendulum suspension with the rear axle rigidly sitting on the frame (see photo below)



Steering homemade made according to the card principle.
Rear wheels scooter
Front scooter
ICE petrol 6.5 l/s "Sadko" is mainly installed on walk-behind tractors and other garden equipment.

Pulley 3 streams
Homemade muffler
The gearbox transmits torque to the rear axle through a chain drive and a sprocket from the motorcycle.
Once again ATTENTION! Consider how the rear suspension is designed.



During the tests, the shortcomings of this suspension design were identified and it was decided to convert it to an independent one for each wheel and axle shafts. Here's what actually came out of it...
As you can see, A-arms are installed.
Front suspension.
Differential and axle shafts.









Disc brakes.


This is the kind of buggy the author came up with; the design is quite simple, except for the fact that the frame requires a pipe passed through a pipe bender. If you have any thoughts on how to simplify the manufacture of the frame, then write a comment (constructive criticism is welcome)

Before you build anything, you need to make drawings. Well, at least a sketch of what should be built. No matter what level of training everyone has, there is not much that needs to be done - you need to determine the operating conditions, select the units and layout of the buggy. Only after this should you start drawing the main arcs of the frame.

Terms of Use.
We formulate operating conditions: public roads (dirt roads also include them) in the central part of Russia (any other region), meadows, forests, ravines - operating conditions are determined based on environmental conditions, the geometry of the chassis depends on this - unlike sports buggies, drive over rough terrain rather than on a prepared road.

Geometric parameters of the buggy.

1. Wheelbase
2. Front wheel track
3. Rear wheel track
4. Overall width
5. Overall height
6. Overall length
7. Approach angle
8. Departure angle
9, 10. Radius of obstacles to be overcome
11. Width according to mirrors

Ground clearance can be set to 200…250 mm. This will allow you to move on light off-road conditions, or at a fairly high speed over rough terrain. The wheelbase for a two-seater buggy is approximately 2400...2800 mm, it depends on the layout and proportions of the frame from which the proportions are taken. The track is assumed to be approximately 1400...1500 mm. When using extended drive shafts, the track can be increased to obtain greater stability. We take the dimensions of the crew part from the donor or use these dimensions:

These are the dimensions of the AZLK-2141 interior, it is larger than the masterpieces of the Volga Automobile Plant, but smaller than the Volga. The car is not built for sports, but for amateur rides, which is why comfort should be maximum. With a cabin height of 1200 mm, you can use regular seats, both driver and passenger. If your budget allows, you can purchase “sports” anatomical seats. Since the required level of safety cannot be achieved with conventional seat belts, it is necessary to purchase 4-point belts.

Buggy layout.
So, we have the following donors at our disposal:
- VAZ-2101 and its modifications
- VAZ-2108 and its modifications (VAZ-2110 is no different for us in terms of units)
- M-2141
All these donors dictate a different layout of the buggy, but cover all the layouts we need. Many people are starting to make assemblies from units. I do it a little differently - I choose the interior layout, and then I start placing the units. In principle, this does not matter, the algorithm is still the same - it makes no difference to us from which side we approach the engine shield. If you reverse the steps, nothing will change.

The algorithm for working on the drawings is as follows:
1. First you need to have a bunch of printed pictures with similar buggies on hand. This will allow you to clearly see all the cars from different angles; you need to constantly look at these cars in a new way - this will allow the eye to become less “blurred”. You can’t look at these cars all the time and try to draw something. You need to give yourself rest, you need to let your brain deal with other problems and let the idea of ​​a buggy sit in your subconscious. This will allow the brain to better think through the concept of a buggy. If after some time you pick up the drafts, the solution will come on its own.
2. You need to have a ruler, a protractor, and two squares on hand (this will allow you to draw parallel lines - those who have studied graphics or draw know). Based on the printout, it is better to draw with gel pens or slate pencils. A regular pen quickly becomes clogged with powder applied to a sheet of paper during printing (if the printer is laser).
3. You need to find it on the Internet and write out the full technical characteristics buggy, so that using these parameters you can attach any size to your drawing.
4. It is necessary to set the starting point, the origin of the coordinate system. Since I start the layout from the interior, I took as the zero point front mount driver's seat slide. It’s so convenient for me, someone can take as a starting point the position of the engine compartment, the axis of the front wheel, or in general any other point from which it is easier to calculate everything.
5. Based on the parameters of the buggy from which the proportions are torn off, the parameters of our buggy are specified. We must take into account that when we deviate from the used units, components and parts, some parameters change. Let’s say that the buggy from which we are ripping off the proportions has 15″ rear wheels with an outer diameter of 670 mm (205/70R15). Our donor has 580 mm wheels (classic, VAZ-2108, 13″ or 14″ – different profile heights, outer diameter according to GOST 580 +/- 1%). It will change for us appearance cars, ground clearance, suspension settings. In addition to these parameters, others may change - you need to look in each case at what changes and how.

If we have a donor VAZ-2101 on our hands
If you leave the base from the donor, then the engine must be moved inside the base for better weight distribution. For the donor, the middle of the unit is located above the front axle. To avoid costly alterations, you can use a long driveshaft from the Niva VAZ-2121, or, taking into account the fact that the original shaft is a two-link one, remove one link and balance it. Accordingly, it is necessary to move both the driver and passenger with the unit. How much depends on the cardan shafts. You can install a gearbox at the rear final drive from a foreign car, cast iron is better. It will improve the weight distribution of the car. I have a gearbox from a BMW 5 series - it weighs 40 kg, real, cast iron. I bought it only because it has the same mounting holes for CV joints from Moskvich. When choosing gearboxes from other foreign cars, you should take into account that sometimes there is a splined fit with the hinges secured with a retaining ring (as on front-wheel drive cars made by VAZ).

Photo of the gearbox

If you look at the engine compartment, you can see that the gearbox is located between the pilot and the passenger, in which case you can move the seats a little further. Or you can leave the same interior layout, but move the units and seats back.
The VAZ-2101 has an outer diameter of wheels of 580 mm. To make the buggy look better, you can install Volga wheels on it with an outer diameter of 640 mm. The excess is small, but with its width it will look a little better. The differential will not be affected, since compared to the donor, the mass of the buggy is guaranteed to be reduced by 40-50%. Once the layout is refined (once the length of the driveshaft is known), you can begin drawing the frame. Let's determine the ground clearance and draw the pipes of the bottom row. Let us indicate the position of the wheels. Let us take the axis of the front wheel as the origin. Above the pipes of the first row we place the units, seats and mannequins. According to the selected prototype, we determine the position of the main frame pipes.
You need to draw in layers - if on a computer, then engineering graphics programs allow you to draw in layers, if on a drawing board, then it is best to use drawing film. If we draw on a computer, then we need to highlight the layers in different colors - this will allow us to visually separate the parts of the buggy. Another advantage of drawing in layers is that if you have several frames you like, you can place several options on different layers and see how it looks from the outside
Some of the design steps for a buggy are shown below:

Final buggy layout:

If we are not satisfied with something in the design of the frame or in the inclination of individual pipes, we can redraw it all as many times as necessary for the final version of the buggy. The following drawing shows various options for the upper arches. It can be seen that the buggy can look different depending on the slopes of the main arcs.

In any case, you have to try and spoil the drafts, otherwise the result will be different from the desired one.

If we have a donor VAZ-2108 on our hands
The easiest way is to take the most common buggy as an idea - sandrail. The machine is extremely light, simple and best suited for the VAZ-2108 unit. Unlike the previous layout, the frame should be more elegant. We begin to copy the buggy and decide on the crew part. To fully imagine the ergonomics of the car, we measure the entire interior of the donor with a tape measure and write down all the data - where and how the controls are located, how the seat is placed and what positions it can occupy with various adjustments, where the radio is located, armrests, edges of the windows (windshield and side) and etc. We take the first bolt securing the seat slide as the zero reference point and measure all distances from it. The armrest allows you to hold your hand comfortably; the car is not sporty and most people hold steering wheel with one hand. That is why we look at where the hand will be comfortable and will not go numb in uncomfortable positions, and measure this height. After that, we proceed to the layout. We choose a ground clearance a little higher than that of the donor - we will sometimes have to make our way through ditches, uneven roads and light off-road conditions. After this we draw the pipes of the first row. At the donor, we mark the distance from the axis of the front wheel to the skid mounting bolt - the point that is taken as the starting point. You can increase this value, since the driver of the buggy is shifted back and the front part of the buggy is narrowed; the width of the space under the pedals should be approximately 350 mm. We measure the position of the engine compartment dimensions (along the front plane of the radiator) from the wheel axis and transfer it to the drawing. After this we place the seats and mannequin. To reduce the cost, the wheels come from the donor. It also uses part of the electrics, seats, steering rack
All stages of buggy design repeat the previous layout

After this we show the placement of controls, dashboard and other elements (at least schematically). The track of the front and rear wheels should be the same, so we safely accept the track of the donor's front wheels. The width of the engine compartment can be taken as the distance between the wings in the place where the shock absorber strut mounting cups are located. Interior height - you can take the same as the donor, or increase it a little, since the Lada is a little cramped for tall drivers. You can also move the seats back a little. We make room for the gas tank, battery, speakers, and some other components and assemblies that may be useful. Now let's determine the angles of rotation of the wheels - the inner wheel will turn by about 32 degrees, the outer wheel by about 25. Let's turn the wheels and find out how much space they need so that there is no contact with the frame in extreme positions.

After all the elements are more or less thought out on the frame, we proceed to drawing the frame pipes. The middle row pipes are located at the height at which it is comfortable for the hand to rest, while the protection will be as complete as possible from side collisions.

Printouts of frames from different angles should be in front of your eyes. This will allow you to carefully consider your frame, while you can safely copy all the angles and inclinations of the elements of the frame you like. It won't work the first time, but don't despair. To do this, you will need a ruler, a protractor, pens and a little time. Engineering experience may be minimal, since there is no need to calculate anything - the work is creative everywhere. This is what it should look like.

If we have donor AZLK-2141 on our hands.
The easiest places to find as a starting point are drawings of the MPI buggy frame and drawings of the B-2908 buggy frame. The second drawings are more crude (or, more precisely, less complete), so we carefully read this article and note what may be useful.
Here are the drawings of the MPI buggy from the Modelist-Konstruktor magazine

This is how the buggy looks in metal (photo from the archive of the author of the article, V. Shcheglov)

We transfer these drawings to the computer and start working. What's the first thing we do? We decide on the unit. There are almost no Cossacks left, so you need to choose something that is more interesting for the money and at the same time fresher. What's left? Moskvich-2141 - all rusty, but the units are in order. Consequently, we begin to experiment with the frame and install a unit from a Muscovite into it, especially considering the fact that there are three units to choose from - VAZ-2106-70 (and, in principle, any unit from a classic or from a front-wheel drive model, but with modifications, will do), UZAM331 (can be of different volumes) or a more preferable unit - Renault F3R. I chose it, especially since the donor was very inexpensive in terms of money - namely the complete power unit, electrics, spare parts for the chassis and much more. Based on the dimensions of the units, we can say the following - the length of the engine, taking into account water cooling, is the same as that of MeMZ engine, the box has the same length, but narrower in cross section, than from Moskvich. The distance from the gearbox flange to the differential axis is the same.
So, let's start working on the layout. Having the original drawing with all the proportions in hand, we will try to adapt it to the look that suits us.

This is what happened when replacing round pipes with profile ones. Special thanks for this drawing Sfairat

When adapting drawings to your units, the result may not be exactly what you expect. There is no need to be afraid of this; in the absence of experience, nothing will ever work out right away.
mpi_design
I've been looking at sites dedicated to cross-country cars for quite a long time. Some of the ideas are posted here. That is why I decided to make drawings of a frame that would look more modern and with a different unit. I took this Czech buggy as a prototype, especially taking into account the fact that there are wheel sizes, drawings of 1:1 units, there is a drawing of a dummy - everything should turn out almost the same.

So, the dummy, the wheels, the main arcs are drawn, now all that remains is to install the power unit and refine the layout. By going to the website http://www.raf.su, you need to clarify technical requirements to know in which places of the frame which pipes are used. We install the unit. Let's see what happened. It very rarely succeeds the first time - as a rule, many nuances arise that I have not encountered before. That is why the layout has to be redone several times.

How to make a suspension yourself is described here, and this particular buggy is shown. To read this article you will need Adobe Reader.
Many steps are not shown, however, this is a clear example of what you can achieve yourself if you put in a little effort and don’t beg for drawings on the forum. The end result would be this:

Detail of drawings. The drawings do not have to be detailed - if you get confused, you can make the entire package of documents, right down to technological maps. But we are garage DIYers, not mass-produced designers. The main thing where you need to put the dimensions is the main arcs, which determine the geometry of the safety cage, suspension mounting points, and levers. In fact, more than half of the car is brewed on site.

Here are the drawings of the buggy from the classics: (clicking on the picture will open a larger picture in a new window)

Behind the wheel of this buggy is N.A. Leskov.

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Dear car enthusiasts, DIYers and just readers! Before we begin the story about our car, it’s worth going back to the not-so-distant past and remembering the history of the emergence of an unusual car - a buggy. And it’s unusual because you won’t see it either on public roads or on city streets.

A buggy is a lightweight, highly maneuverable sports (without excessive comfort) off-road vehicle used in track racing, cross-country racing and simply over rough terrain.

Buggies first appeared in the United States as small recreational vehicles. Amateur car designers and car enthusiasts used them to drive along coastal sand strips and deserted beaches, for which these cars were nicknamed Dune Buggy - “dune (or beach) bugs.”

The fact that such cars first appeared in the United States in the early 1950s is beyond doubt: by that time, in a country with a developed automotive industry, there were already many outdated passenger cars that were no longer suitable for driving on the roads, and throwing it away is a shame. So the local craftsmen remade them: they removed the completely rusted bodies, replacing them with thick arches for safety; strengthened the frames; boosted the engines; increased clearances ( ground clearances) and the movement of the suspensions... and they raced to cut through the sand dunes of deserted beaches, skidding through turns on two wheels, dodging collisions. Buggies quickly gained popularity and competitions began to be held on them. Foreign tourists and car enthusiasts liked such entertainment and competitions so much that soon (in the late 1960s) buggies “crossed” American borders and spread across all continents. In our country, buggies appeared in the early 1970s and immediately as sports cars, since there were simply no donors for pleasure ones.

But the origin of the type (or class) of the car is ambiguous, but, most likely, from the English word buggy - “stroller”, although many associate it with bug - “bug” (“bug”, etc.), the legendary German car of the company “ Volkswagen,” of which there were quite a few (captured and exported) in the country.

Well, now I’ll move on from the history of the buggy to the description of my car.

The Borzik buggy (this name was later given to the car by rivals and fans) was created according to individual project(although it is clear that the engine, as well as some other units and components, are industrially manufactured) for participation in autocross competitions. Initially it was developed as all-wheel drive, although I approached this option in stages and at first made the car only with rear-wheel drive. Construction began in November 2005. The car went to the first tests (or rather, immediately to competitions) in 2008.

Then it was modernized several times: parts, components and even assemblies were changed. Therefore, descriptions of some components may not coincide with drawings and photographs. At the same time, the drawings themselves are for informational purposes, that is, buggies can be made from them only if the dimensions are adjusted in relation to the vehicle being built.

Overall dimensions of the buggy: length – 3200 mm, height along the main arches (they are also safety arches, only located along the car) – approximately 1500 mm, width – 1800 mm. Ground clearance – 210 mm, wheelbase– 2540 mm, track: front wheels – 1640, rear – 1600 mm.

The car frame is spatial, welded from seamless cold-drawn steel (grade 30KhGSA) round pipe. The diameter of the pipe of the main pair of arches and protective side thresholds (there are also two of them) is 38×2.5 mm, other elements are made of pipes with diameters: 35×2.5; 30×2; 25×2; 20×1.5; 16×1.5 mm.

The roof, voluminous sides, wheel side guards, front and rear hoods are made of fiberglass.

(drawing by Andrey Anikin):

1 – engine; 2 – clutch; 3 – gearbox; 4 – transition plate; 5 – bevel gear; 6 – rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 7 – rear drive wheel (2 pcs.); 8 – internal joint (CV joint) of the rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 9 – external hinge of the rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 10 – cardan joint (3 pcs.); 11 – bearing unit of the cardan shaft; 12 – cardan shaft; 13 – external hinge of the front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 14 front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 15 – internal hinge of the front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 16 – front gearbox; 17 – front drive steered wheel (2 pcs.); buggy chassis - superimposed projection

(drawing by Andrey Anikin):

1 – steering wheel; 2 cardan steering shaft; 3 racks; 4-cardan joint; 5 – thrust (2 pcs.); 6 – steering knuckle lever; 7 – front steered wheel (2 pcs.); 8 – steering rod and knuckle joint (4 pcs.); 9 – seat and pilot (superimposed projection)

The wheel arrangement of the car is 4x4 (that is, the car is all-wheel drive, at first it had only rear-wheel drive). Layout - with a rear engine (the engine is located behind the pilot's back across the axis, while the shank crankshaft exits on the left side). The driver's seat is located in the center of the car.

Initially, the car was designed and made for the engine of the VAZ-2108 - 2110 family of cars. The transmission was also used from front-wheel drive VAZ cars.

When converting the car into an all-wheel drive version, I used the rear axle from the classic Zhiguli (rear-wheel drive cars) as the front axle, cutting off the “stockings” from it. From them comes the cardan transmission.

The gearbox has been redesigned: the fifth gear gears have been removed, the input shaft has been shortened, and the rear cover has been removed. Instead, an adapter plate was installed for docking and attaching an angular gearbox to the gearbox (in the trade it is called a transfer case) - from Mitsubishi RVR. The angular gearbox is mounted on the splines of the secondary shaft. The cardan transmission from the angular gearbox to the front axle consists of two shafts (from the VAZ-2101), rigidly connected to the gearboxes (without any couplings) on one suspended bearing. They (shafts) pass above the floor (on the side, on the left) and are covered with a casing. The floor itself is made of duralumin, it is attached to the frame with bolts, for which purpose it is attached to the frame pipe with its inside ears are welded.

Subsequently, he rebuilt almost the entire car (only the frame remained practically untouched). The engine and gearbox were replaced with corresponding units from the Kelika coupe from Toyota, an angular gearbox ( transfer case) came from the Honda Fit crossover (the driveshafts are also from it), and the front gearbox is from Subaru cars (it is prefabricated: the body is from the R-2 minicar, and the internal parts are from Imprese). .

The suspension of each front wheel is on two A-arms (only the upper one - without a jumper) with a telescopic shock absorber mounted at an angle of 45°. The rear suspension is made with one longitudinal and two transverse wheel arms. Shock absorbers were used with variable stiffness from Rancho. Here they are installed at a smaller angle to the vertical than the front ones. Subsequently, I replaced them with shock absorbers from Koni and Showa, which can be reconfigured depending on the driving style and specifics of a particular driver.

Wheel rims size bore diameter 15" - light alloy, made by Master-Sport. Tires – brands Kx-25 (front) and Kx-35 (rear), with a running-in diameter of approximately 620 mm, summer radial tubeless studless, special for sports driving.

The buggy body trim parts are made of fiberglass using polyester resin; fenders and mudguards are made of sheet polyethylene. The anatomical chair, like the upholstery, is made of fiberglass reinforced with Kevlar and carbon fiber.

Steering rack installed in front of the front axle, connected to the steering wheel by a cardan shaft. The steering linkage is of the “reverse” type and is rotated 180°. Steering knuckles– from VAZ-2108.

The brakes were initially used as standard ones (from a VAZ-2108 car), but were later replaced with lighter ones - motorcycle ones (to reduce sprung masses). In this case, the handbrake is combined with the brake pedal: press the pedal with your foot and lock it with the handle.

The instrument panel contains indicators for coolant temperature and on-board network voltage, a critical oil pressure warning light, an additional fan switch and an engine start button, and an emergency power switch is also located.

The buggy was decorated with a special technical passport, and I, as a pilot, passed certification and received a sports license.

The car did not sit idle in the garage - I constantly participated in various competitions on it, both regional and all-Russian. Repeatedly became their prize-winner and even winner.

The life of the buggy continues, only it has found a new owner. And I switched to another car, which I built during my performances at Borzik.

Now, working at the Center for Young Technicians, I pass on my experience in building buggies to the younger generation. For this purpose, I developed the “Sports Technical Design of Buggy” program, which I use to teach teenagers aged 10-16 years. They started building with them new car, using your own and their design ideas.

A. DAVYDOV, Zlatoust, Chelyabinsk region.

Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, scooter, moped, or motorcycle, but when it comes to a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. Making this type of transport is not difficult, you only need a little desire. You just need to successfully purchase a 125 cm3 scooter engine.

DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.

Buggy manufacturing process

Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using ordinary water pipes of different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be connected using conventional electric welding.

It is optimal to take regular 10-inch wheels from a scooter. The suspension is independent pendulum, with shock absorbers in both directions. In a regular go-kart, control is done through the steering rack; in a homemade buggy there will be no steering rack. You just need to find steering rods from the Zhiguli “Kopeyka”. Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.

Step 2. Differential
To exist in a buggy reverse gear and differential, you need to use a gear axle from the Ant scooter, it has everything we need. To reduce engine vibration, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive should be located in accordance with the center of the pendulum mounting, thus making it possible to adjust the chain tension.

Step 3: Installing the Brakes
Brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. Brake drums are located on each axle shaft, they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When you press the pedal, they activate the brake pads on each drum.

Step 4: Final assembly steps
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy; it can easily be adjusted to suit any height. We put everything in its place and enjoy using this homemade product.

Since today is a day off, I’ll try to write an easy article, you know, I’ve had a topic for this for a long time. For example, several of my readers, after a post about “,” asked me the following question - what is a BUGGY? Others asked the question - is it possible to assemble them with your own hands? Today I decided to collect everything in one article and dot all the i's. Well let's go...

BUGGY - These are lightweight cars, often made by hand, used mainly for driving on rough terrain or off-road. Often used in autocross. They are distinguished by high cross-country ability and a durable chassis; they often have a motorcycle engine.

As you understand, these are also “spontaneous” (not assembly line) variations of cars that were made mainly for cross-country motorsports. Now there are specialized companies that produce them. However, there are also folk craftsmen who produce with their own hands.

History of appearance

The first such cars appeared in the USA around 1950. If you try to translate the word “BUGGY”, then literal translation will mean “stroller”, “convertible”, “small trolley”. However, this is not where the cars got their name!

The thing is that in 1950, the USA simply filled the “trophy” VOLKSWAGEN “BUG” (or as we now all know it, “BEETLE”). Of course, work cars were used for their intended purpose, they were simply driven. However, there were also a lot of faulty cars, for example with a damaged body, but intact “internals”. It was precisely these cars that were disassembled, instead of a mangled body, they installed a self-made frame, into which, as you understand, they mounted the engine, chassis, seats, etc. The cars turned out to be very light, and “transparent”, precisely because of this lightness they were nicknamed “BUGGY”, this is a diminutive of the word “BUG” - meaning “BUG”.

A little later, after a couple of decades, BUGGIES evolve, they begin to install turbocharged engines that develop power up to 200 hp, special bodies are made, this makes it possible to achieve very high speeds, which involuntarily attracted many spectators, often entire auto shows unfolded. Popularity grew simply quadratically around the world.

This is how another generation of lightweight cars was born, in which autocross racers now compete; in general, this is a whole industry.

Structure

As before, BUGGIES now also have a lightweight frame body, essentially durable pipes that are welded in a certain sequence. However, in fairness, it is worth noting that now metal is being replaced by even lighter structures - made of carbon. The frame must be as strong as possible to withstand all other loads. The rest of the components are hung on the body as the main part. Namely, the engine, transmission, suspension, and of course the interior.

Now, by the way, there are options for closed cars; sides are made of carbon fiber that cover either the driver or the necessary parts (for example, the engine), so you can drive on dirty roads, and not just on dry ones.

The layout of the BUGGY is also specific and remains so almost to this day. It was the Volkswagen Beetle that, with its structure, determined the design for many years to come.

As we know, the engine is located at the rear, and there is also no cooling radiator, which turned out to be very popular for such cross-country cars.

But the most important component is the suspension; it is in the BUGGY that it is considered the most passable and the most durable. Moreover, the ground clearance can reach as much as 500 mm, which is simply a lot!

As you understand, such vehicles can be made with your own hands; in principle, there is nothing difficult for a knowledgeable person.

Nowadays such cars are even assembled with motorcycle engines. Of course, you are unlikely to do it yourself without special training; specialists are required, but if you involve them, this is roughly what can happen, watch the video.

The BUGGIES are leaving...?

However, now, the era of these light SUVs is slowly fading. And the appearance of ATVs is to blame for this. They are the focus of many autocross spectators right now.

However, BUGGIES are not dead, they are now being modified, so other engines (already with water cooling) began to be used. Many suspension parts have been migrated from SUVs, and improvised cabins, bumpers and other body elements made of fiberglass are also appearing.

Competitions are also held, and now they can be divided into several types:

Beach

Rally raids

Crawlers

There is no longer the same structure; BUGGIES can be either front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive. Nowadays there are competitions for “climbing” rocks, for example, a route is chosen in which there are a lot of large stones, the car must drive along it without falling off, and also without getting stuck. Very spectacular! A small example of competition.

It should be noted that due to their lightness of structure and high maneuverability, they have gained popularity in many armies of the world. Even in Russia there are such developments, the main task of transporting troops over long distances over rough terrain (especially deserts).

Also used to patrol the captured perimeter, sometimes a light machine gun is installed.

This is such an interesting car, I think you liked the article, read our AUTOBLOG.

The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models, which are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load withstand, etc. Let's consider different designs as power increases.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

• From a motorcycle
• From OKI
• From a Cossack

From a motorcycle

A light small buggy can be assembled based on an IZH or Ural motorcycle engine. It will weigh 300 kilograms and reach a speed of up to 80 km/h. In this design, motorcycle parts and small cars are used as much as possible.

From OKI

An excellent budget donor for a buggy is OKA. The hubs are light in weight. The liquid-cooled engine is protected from overheating and is not as noisy as a motorcycle engine. The steering rack has a sufficient safety margin for its class. A buggy based on the OKI has greater cross-country ability than a production car.

From a Cossack

Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, is, in fact, a ready-made version of a buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for mounting the engine backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axes. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential), swapping the right and left sides. And make a special gear shift drive, since the gearbox rod turns from the driver to rear bumper, and this complicates the backstage system.

Video of the process of building a buggy from Zaporozhets

The shock absorbers, as well as the hubs for the buggy, can be left “original”. But you will have to make the suspension arms yourself, more on that below.

For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with the electronics. Although this is a matter of personal preference, the design does not change. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. To drive the rear wheels, front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car holds more than 300 kg.

For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from a VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to a cut-off axle from a “classic”, for example a VAZ 2106. rear axle the pins are fixed without the ability to rotate. And the front ones are like on a car. Differential power unit, for uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to block.

With this arrangement, it is worth considering that the maximum speed will decrease by the amount of the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transmit rotation to the wheels not directly, but through another differential. This makes it possible to use large diameter wheels without overloading the motor.

Homemade cars mean homemade frame. For supporting frame buggy, you can use ordinary water pipes, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square, 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to consider that in the event of a rollover, the frame must withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact. This applies to buggies of any class.

To design you must have:

• Pipe bender
• Bulgarian
• Welding machine
• Drill

It is advisable to keep scraps of boards and bars on hand, because there is always a need to lift some elements of the frame and fix them in this position.

Begin making the frame on a level area. The pipes, bent according to the drawings, are first welded, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not move, as metal tension occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.

Front suspension

The suspension has proven itself well on long wishbones shaped like the letter A, it provides large wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of the shock absorber with the spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.

The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay attention special attention materials and quality of welds when assembling this part.

To reduce wear on silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers need to be designed as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.

A nuance that may subsequently upset you is the limited travel of the lower ball joint pin in its socket. In other words, the pin may be restricting the suspension's upward or downward travel in a place other than expected. This needs to be checked at the design stage.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But it's better for a buggy independent suspension. Levers can be longitudinal or transverse.

wishbone

You can take the front suspension as an example, which is used on many Japanese passenger cars. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second arm goes forward to the center and serves as a jib, taking on the load when the car jerks.

Trailing arm

To successfully use the trailing arms of the suspension, lateral thrust is required, otherwise the buggy will have poor road holding. The silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than those on the “classic” transverse rods.

If you decide to build a buggy at home, your time will not be wasted. Even if nothing happens, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the operation of the main components of the car. And if it works out, you will have a unique car.

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What material is suitable for use in a homemade buggy or ATV? What if you want to participate in competitions?

Thanks for the material Nitro

- Is it possible to use square pipes?

- what cross-section of pipes should be?

- Is it possible to use seam pipes from the regular building materials market?

- how to bend the frame pipes?

- Is it possible to make a frame without using a pipe bender - just weld the frame from pipe sections?

the answers are as follows:
The frame must be constructed from seamless cold-formed seamless pipes. The material must have certain strength characteristics.

In the buggy builder’s “bible” (Nazarov M.M. “Special cross-country cars - buggies”, Moscow, DOSAAF 1980) it is written like this: “The main safety bars are made of cold-drawn steel seamless pipes. Their minimum dimensions depend on the class and weight of the vehicle. For classes 0 and 1 with engine displacement up to 350 and 500 cm3 - 35x2 mm; for grades 2-15: with a weight of up to 700 kg - 42x2.5 mm; from 700 to 1,200 kg - 48x2.5 mm; over 1,200 - 57x3 mm.”

Taking into account the fact that pipes made from this material are expensive and have limited weldability, you can use other pipes. The most suitable ones are seamless, seamless, cold-deformed pipes made of steel 20. You can buy such pipes at large metal depots; in Moscow you can buy pipes at Metal-Service. They have almost everything there and sell it at retail.

For buggies such as Hurricane, ST2, classes such as minibuggy, go kart, the use of profile electric-welded pipes of square or rectangular cross-section is allowed. They are convenient to process in a garage, but you need to remember that a square pipe works differently in torsion, compression and bending, unlike a round pipe (strengthening material is not such a complicated thing). But, as a rule, you want to ride and not achieve any records, so such tubes are actively used for buggies - especially abroad. Oddly enough, but the buggy is DIY class - (do it yorself - do it yourself).

Regarding seam pipes, I know some people use them. In large cities it is possible to buy what you need, but outside these cities it is quite problematic - you need to buy a large batch. If there is nothing other than seam pipes, you can choose a pipe with a thicker wall. By the way, there were cases when, at off-road races, individual athletes built frames from an ordinary water pipe with a thick wall - in order to meet the minimum weight requirements. The main arches for the buggy must be solid - after all, they affect the safety of the pilot (and passengers). the remaining sections of the frame can be welded from pieces of pipes. If welded correctly, the strength will be sufficient.

There are now many Chinese pipe benders in any construction market. they are all designed for water pipes (their sizes depend on the nominal diameter). the second feature of such pipe benders is that the ovality of the pipe in the center of the bend will be greater than that required by sports regulations - if the regulations do not restrain it, you can take it and bend it.