Characteristics of Honda CRV 1st generation. Honda CR-V RD1: review, technical characteristics, advantages and disadvantages, owner reviews. History of Honda CR-V

Automobile Honda CR-V, presented at the Tokyo Motor Show in 1995, became one of the first representatives of the “crossover” class, although at that time this name was not yet used. In October of the same year, the new product appeared in Japanese car dealerships, and in 1997 its sales began in America, Europe and Russia. Due to increased demand in 2000, production of the Honda CR-V for the European market was organized at a plant in the UK.

When creating the crossover, components and assemblies of the fifth generation model were used. The only engine is a two-liter with a capacity of 129–130 hp. pp., it was paired with a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic. The Honda CR-V had two versions: with front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive, but only all-wheel drive vehicles were supplied to Russia.

In 1999, the model was slightly restyled (only the shape of the bumpers changed), and the engine power increased to 140 hp. With. (version for Japanese market- up to 150 forces). The production of the first generation Honda CR-V ended in 2001.

2nd generation, 2001–2006

The second generation Honda CR-V, which debuted in 2001, has increased in size and become heavier, and the suspension designs have changed. In addition to the previous 2.0 engine (150 hp), the car received new engine volume 2.4 liters and power 160 hp. pp., such cars were equipped only with automatic transmissions and were sold in Japan and America. A turbodiesel version of the crossover was prepared especially for the European market in 2005, equipped with a 2.2-liter power unit developing 140 hp. With.

In Russia, the “second” Honda CR-V was available only with a two-liter engine, all-wheel drive and manual or automatic transmission transmission

3rd generation, 2006–2011

In 2006, the next generation of the model debuted. The car became a little shorter and lower, lost the “spare wheel” on the rear door, and its choice of options expanded.

In Russia, the “basic” Honda CR-V was offered with a two-liter engine producing 150 hp. With. paired with a six-speed manual transmission or a five-speed automatic. Cars equipped with a 2.4-liter engine (166 hp) were equipped only with automatic transmissions. They supplied us all-wheel drive crossovers, produced at a plant in the UK.

In Europe, cars were sold with a two-liter gasoline engine or a 2.2 i-CTDi turbodiesel with a capacity of 140 horsepower. In the American market, the Honda CR-V had only one version - with a 2.4-liter engine. The drive could be front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive.

As a result of the 2010 restyling, the front design of the car barely changed, and on European cars a new i-DTEC diesel engine of the same volume appeared, developing 150 hp. With. In total, approximately 2.5 million cars were produced until 2012.

Engine table Honda car CR-V

“Comfortable recreational vehicle” is exactly how the name of the Honda CR-V is deciphered and translated.

He represents compact crossover, the first generation of which was produced from 1995 to 2001 Japanese company Honda. The car was assembled at factories in Japan, China and the Philippines.

The Honda CR-V crossover was created based on Honda Civic. The length of the car is 4470 mm, width – 1750 mm, height – 1675 mm with a wheelbase of 2620 mm and ground clearance 205 mm. When equipped, the car weighs 1370 kg.

The first generation Honda CR-V crossover was equipped with one gasoline engine DOHC. This is a four-cylinder 16-valve engine with a displacement of two liters, producing 130 horsepower and 186 Nm of peak torque. It worked in conjunction with a 4-band automatic transmission and system all-wheel drive. In December 1998, the engine was modernized, its power increased to 150 “horses”, and a 5-speed manual transmission and a version with front axle drive also appeared.

The car is equipped with independent spring suspension both front and rear. Disc brakes are installed on the front wheels, drum brakes are installed on the rear wheels.

The first generation Honda CR-V crossover is a successful combination of comfort, dynamics, versatility and cross-country ability. The car was equipped with a reliable engine, which had practically no weak points and, with timely and high-quality maintenance, broke down extremely rarely.
The all-wheel drive transmission requires special attention, and its weak point is the gearbox rear axle.
The suspension and gearbox are nothing special, except for the high cost of repairs.

Handling, dynamics and brakes are the positive aspects of the “first” Honda CR-V. And poor sound insulation - negative side crossover.

And, actually, the first generation Honda CR-V.

After reading many forums, I was almost inclined to favor the RAV 4. It has permanent all-wheel drive and an abundance of spare parts in stores.

The second was Subaru Forester with naturally aspirated engine and automatic. The car is quite good, but the ground clearance is very low compared to its opponents. I immediately rejected this option, although the car is very, very dynamic.

When I came to see the Honda, I immediately noticed the huge interior, where you can easily move from the front seats to the rear ones, and vice versa. Another plus is ground clearance.

Exterior

The outside view of the car is a typical body of the first SUVs of the late 90s and early 2000s. The rather square shape has a positive effect on the internal volume of the cabin, so this is rather a plus.

Salon

Very big. The absence of a central tunnel and a hard armrest between the front seats makes it possible to move freely around the cabin. It is worth noting the good transformation of the interior, which makes the luggage space simply indecently large. They could easily fit there: a span of scaffolding, a Honda Accord hood across the entire width, building materials, and so on. In general, only 5 for useful interior space.

The driver's seat has tilt and height adjustments. The rear sofa is divided in a ratio of 2/3 and also has an inclined backrest. Overall convenient. It is worth noting the large legroom for rear passengers - it is quite sufficient. With my height of 182 cm, I can sit in the back without touching the back of the front seat.

Engine

The engine here is the good old B20Z with 150 horses. It is quite enough in the city and on the highway. Average consumption: highway 8.5 liters, city – up to 13 liters per 100 km. The engine is very simple and reliable, does not have VTEC. It easily travels 300-400 thousand km to the capital.

Box

It's more likely weak point of this car. She does not like fast starts and towing loads. Has only 4 gears. Overall quite reliable, but a little outdated.

Suspension

Purely Honda - harsh. But at the same time it holds the road just perfectly.

Its only drawback is its multi-leverage. These are additional costs for spare parts. Front suspension on two wishbones with four ball joints it is also quite expensive to maintain. But it gives driving pleasure.

Bottom line: I've owned the car for about six years. I have never regretted the purchase. For the money, this is ideal - a real workhorse with a very comfortable and roomy interior.

The car is equipped with a gasoline, four-stroke, four-cylinder, in-line, sixteen-valve, liquid-cooled engine.
The cylinder head has two camshafts: the front one for the exhaust valves, the rear one for the intake valves.
The camshafts and coolant pump are driven by a timing belt from a toothed pulley mounted on crankshaft engine. The tension of the belt and the direction of its movement along the pulleys is carried out by a tension roller. The camshaft cams act on the valves through rocker arms with adjusting screws. During operation, regular checking and adjustment of thermal clearances in the valve drive is required.
The generator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor are driven by poly-V belts from the engine crankshaft pulley.

Basic data for monitoring, adjustment and maintenance
Engine model	B20B or B20Z
Engine type	Petrol, four-cylinder, in-line
Engine cylinder operating order	1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Crankshaft rotation direction	Counterclockwise
Cylinder diameter, mm	84
Piston stroke, mm	89
Working volume, cm3	1973
Compression ratio: B20B	9,2
Compression ratio: B20Z	9,6
Number of camshafts	2
Number of valves per cylinder	4
Rated net power, kW/l. s.: В20В	91/126 (5400)
Rated net power, kW/l. pp.: B20Z	106/146 (6200)
Maximum net torque, Nm (at crankshaft speed, min1): В20В	180 (4300)
Maximum net torque, Nm (at crankshaft speed, min1): B20Z	180 (4500)
for intake valves	0,08-0,12
Gaps in the timing valve drive mechanism on a cold engine (18-20 °C), mm: for exhaust valves	0,16-0,20
Minimum idle speed: vehicles manufactured before 1999;	700-800
Minimum idle speed: vehicles manufactured since 1999;	680-780
Minimum pressure in the engine lubrication system at an oil temperature of 80 °C at a crankshaft speed of 3000 min1, kPa	340
Minimum pressure in the engine lubrication system, kPa	70
Nominal compression in engine cylinders, kPa	1230
Minimum permissible compression in engine cylinders, kPa	930
Maximum permissible compression difference between engine cylinders, kPa	200
Oil volume in the engine lubrication system (maximum volume of oil drained during replacement), l	4,6 (3,8)
Oil used	Motor oil for gasoline engines, energy saving (Energy Conserving)
Group motor oil by API/ILSAC	SJ/GF-2 and higher
Engine oil viscosity class according to SAE: below - 30 °C and above +35 °C	5W-30
Engine oil viscosity grade according to SAE: from -20 °C and above +35 °C	10W-30

Tightening torques threaded connections engine parts
Name of parts	Thread	Tightening torque, Nm
Crankshaft main bearing cap bolts	Ml1x1.5	76
Nuts of connecting rod cap bolts	M8x0.75	31
	M6	9,8
Oil pump mounting bolts	M8	24
Holder mounting bolts rear oil seal crankshaft	M6	9,8
Oil pump housing bolts	M6	9,8
Oil intake bolts	M6	9,8
Oil intake nuts	M6	9,8
Flywheel mounting bolts (manual gearbox)	M6	103
Drive disc mounting bolts (automatic transmission)	M12x1.0	74
Crankshaft pulley bolt	M12x1.0	177
Engine sump mounting nuts	M14x1.25	12
Engine oil pan mounting bolts	M6	12
Oil control nuts	M6	9,8
Oil leveler mounting bolts	M6	9,8
Clutch/automatic transmission housing cover bolts	M6	12
Clutch/automatic transmission housing cover bolt	M6	29
Cylinder head bolts: 1st stage	M12x1.25	22
Cylinder head bolts: 2 - stage	M11x1.5	85
Camshaft support cap bolts	M6	9,8
Camshaft pulley bolt	M8	37
Cylinder head cover nuts	M6	9,8
Emergency oil pressure sensor	-	18
Coolant pump mounting bolts	M6	12
Thermostat cover bolts	M6	12
Bolts securing the cooling system pipe flange to the cylinder block	M6	9,8
Engine splash guard bolts	M8	24
Engine mudguard mounting bolts	M6x1.0	9,8
Front support nut power unit	M12x1.25	59
Stud of the bracket for the lower support of the power unit	M12x1.25	83
Bolt securing the upper right support of the power unit	M12x1.25	74
Nuts securing the bracket of the upper right support of the power unit to the gearbox	M12x1.25	64
Bolts securing the upper right support of the power unit to the spar	M12x1.25	64
Bolts securing the lower front support of the power unit to the spar	M10x1.25	44
Bolts securing the bracket of the lower left support of the power unit to the engine	Ml2x1.25	64
Compressor bracket mounting bolts	M8	24
Nuts for fastening the bracket of the left upper support of the power unit	M12x1.25	54
Bolts securing the left upper support of the power unit to the spar	M10x1.25	44
Bolts securing the rear power unit support to the front cross member	M10x1.25	64
Bolt securing the rear support of the power unit to the bracket	M12x1.25	59
Bolts of the lower fastening of the rear support bracket of the power unit to the engine	M14x1.5	83
Bolt of the upper fastening of the power unit bracket to the engine	M12x1.25	59
Steel oil pan drain plug	-	44
Aluminum oil pan drain plug	-	39

Engine - technical condition check

The technical condition of the engine depends on the mileage of the vehicle, the timeliness of periodic maintenance, the quality of the operating materials used, as well as the quality of repairs.

The condition of the engine should be monitored regularly during vehicle operation. Signs of malfunctions may include: the presence of oil drops where the car is parked; the engine control system warning light or the emergency oil pressure warning light comes on; appearance extraneous sound(noise, knocking) when the engine is running; smoky exhaust; moving the temperature indicator arrow to the red zone; increased oil consumption, noticeable loss of power. If at least one of the listed signs is detected, it is necessary to conduct a more detailed check. Checking the technical condition of various engine systems is shown in the relevant sections of the chapter.

Rate technical condition the engine can be checked with sufficient accuracy by external signs and using available equipment (compression gauge, pressure gauge for checking the pressure in the engine lubrication system).

To complete the work you will need a compression gauge.

Checking by external signs
1. Place the car on an inspection ditch or overpass (see p. 30, “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair").
2. Inspect the engine from above and below. Oil leaks may indicate wear of the oil seals or damage to the oil pan seal.
3. We start the engine, and the emergency oil pressure indicator lamp should go out. If the warning light comes on at idle after warming up the engine and goes out after increasing the crankshaft speed, then the oil pump gears, crankshaft journals, main and connecting rod bearings may be worn out. If the lamp is constantly on, then the lubrication system or emergency oil pressure sensor may be faulty. We check the oil pressure in the engine lubrication system using a pressure gauge.

Operating a vehicle with insufficient oil pressure in the lubrication system will result in serious engine damage. To avoid injury, when performing the following operation, do not touch moving engine parts (pulleys, belt) or touch hot engine parts.

4. After warming up the engine, listen to its operation.
5. When extraneous noise appears, use a stethoscope to determine the area where it can be clearly heard. Based on the nature and location of the emission of extraneous noise, we determine its source and possible malfunction.

A ringing clicking sound under the cylinder head cover, as a rule, indicates increased clearances in the valve drive; uniform noise in the timing belt area may indicate wear on the tension roller or bearing of the coolant pump. Knocks at the bottom of the cylinder block and on the side of the oil pan, which intensify with increasing crankshaft speed, are caused by a malfunction of the main bearings. In this case, as a rule, the oil pressure in the lubrication system is low. At idle, this sound has a low pitch, and as the speed increases, its pitch increases. At sharp pressing When pressing the gas pedal, the engine emits something similar to a growl - like “gyr-r-r”. Loud knocking noises in the middle part of the cylinder block are caused by faulty connecting rod bearings. A rhythmic metallic knock at the top of the cylinder block, heard in all engine operating modes and increasing under load, is caused by a malfunction of the piston pins. A muffled knocking sound at the top of the cylinder block on a cold engine, which subsides and disappears when warmed up, can be caused by worn pistons and cylinders. Operating a vehicle with faulty bearings and pins will lead to engine failure.

6. If oil consumption has increased, but no signs of leakage are found, then:
1) warm up the engine until operating temperature;
2) disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the throttle valve;
3) bring a sheet of paper to the hose; if oil stains appear on the paper, it means that the cylinder-piston group is worn out; We determine the degree of wear by compression in the cylinders;
4) if oil mist does not come from the ventilation system, then the cause is increased consumption oil may be wear on the valve stem seals. In this case, the car will have a smoky exhaust.

Operation of an engine with a worn cylinder-piston group, faulty valve stem seals or low-quality fuel leads to premature failure of the catalytic converter and oxygen concentration sensor.

Compression check
1. Check and, if necessary, adjust the clearances in the timing valve drive.
2. Warm up the engine to operating temperature and turn off the ignition.
3. Disconnect the wire blocks from the injectors.
4. Disconnect the ignition distributor wiring harness block.
5. Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
6. Install a compression gauge in the spark plug hole of one of the engine cylinders.
7. An assistant presses the gas pedal all the way to the floor (so that the throttle valve) and turns on the starter for 5-10 s.

Measurements must be performed with a fully charged battery, otherwise the readings will be incorrect. For a working engine, the compression in the cylinders should be at least 930 kPa, and the difference in compression between the cylinders should be no more than 200 kPa.

8. We remember or write down the readings of the compression meter and reset the device.
9. Similarly, we measure the compression in the other three cylinders.
10. If the compression is less, then use a medical syringe or oil can to pour about 10 cm3 of engine oil into the spark plug holes of the engine cylinders with low compression.
11. Repeat the compression test. If the compression has increased, the rings may have stuck or the piston group may have worn out. Otherwise, the valves do not close tightly or the cylinder head gasket is faulty.

You can try to eliminate valve obstruction with special preparations poured into fuel tank or directly into the engine cylinders (see “Instructions” for the drug). The tightness of the valves can be checked with compressed air under a pressure of 200-300 kPa, supplied through the spark plug holes. It is necessary to supply air when the camshafts are in such a position that all four valves of the cylinder being tested are closed. Air will escape through the exhaust system if one of the exhaust valves is faulty, and if one of the intake valves is faulty, then through the throttle assembly. If the piston group is faulty, air will escape through the oil filler neck. The release of air bubbles through the coolant into expansion tank indicates a faulty cylinder head gasket.

Checking oil pressure
1. We prepare the car for work.
2. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.
3. After turning off the engine, remove the emergency oil pressure sensor.
4. Screw the tip of the pressure gauge into the mounting hole of the sensor.
5. Start the engine and check the oil pressure at idle speed and at a crankshaft speed of about 5400 min.

For a serviceable engine warmed up to operating temperature, the oil pressure at rpm idle speed should be at least 70 kPa, and the oil pressure at high crankshaft speed should be 340 kPa. The engine needs major renovation if the pressure is below normal. If the oil pressure is higher than normal at high engine speeds, the oil pump relief valve (relief valve) is probably faulty.

The Honda CR-V is considered a fairly reliable car, especially if it very rarely goes off-road. Its design uses many components from other famous models brands such as Honda Civic and Honda Accord, which guarantees high technical stability. Those who plan to frequently drive the SUV on or off challenging roads will be disappointed. The rear axle is connected via a hydraulic pump, which comes into operation with a long delay and transmits only a small part of the torque. It's rare that the rear axle can provide real assistance off-road. Another drawback is reliability. The coupling and pump are easy to overheat, and with frequent use they soon fail.

However, in general, the all-wheel drive system of the 1st generation Honda SRV is quite stable. However, problems after many years of use are almost inevitable. Most often, play occurs on the driveshaft, in the front axle shafts, and oil leaks from the rear axle may occur. The “bridge” may hum if no one has ever changed the oil in it before.

Loads fail relatively quickly and manual box transmission The transmission begins to knock out or a grinding noise appears. Hard use ultimately ends in wear of bearings and synchronizers. Against this background, the automatic versions look better. Although automatic transmissions are quite outdated and slow, provided they regularly change the oil, they are much more durable than manual transmissions. It is noteworthy that the gear selector in the Honda CR-V with an automatic transmission is located on the steering column, like in American cars.

The geometric cross-country ability of the Honda SR-V allows a lot, but the main thing is not to overdo it. The suspension is strong and does not like unevenness. It feels best when used on roads with smooth hard surfaces. Original components have the greatest durability, but they are quite expensive, so owners are increasingly using cheap analogues, which wear out quite quickly. This is where the opinion arises about the crossover suspension as not the best element. Fortunately, it is usually small parts that need replacing, such as silent blocks and connectors.

Problems with the chassis often arise due to overload, which is facilitated by the spacious body. After several years of such use, the condition of the rear suspension begins to deteriorate. Springs and shock absorbers will need to be replaced.

Vibrations radiating into the steering wheel are a typical problem that many Honda owners of that time encountered, and not just the CR-V. The disease arose for many reasons, the detection, confirmation and elimination of which is not only difficult, but also expensive.

The first generation Honda CR-V gasoline engines have earned a good reputation, especially the B20 series. They are very reliable and durable. The longevity of the engine depends entirely on the condition of the cooling system and valve clearance. Fan failure or radiator defects quickly affect the condition of the motor. Cheap thermostat analogues are short-lived. Unfortunately, many people forget about adjusting the valve clearance. In advanced cases, repair of the block head may be necessary. Ancillary equipment malfunctions and electronic malfunctions are rare.

Most Honda SR-Vs are well equipped, but electrical equipment often fails. These are mostly minor glitches. Most often, power windows suffer, and even then mainly due to the mechanical part.

The salon is assembled from materials good quality and looks good even on cars with over 300,000 km. Self-supporting CR-V body tough and well protected from corrosion. Corrosion appears in places hidden from view. Therefore, before purchasing, you need to carefully check the condition of the load-bearing suspension elements, look under the seals and inspect the lower edges of the doors. Due to the spare wheel mounted on the tailgate, it has to be adjusted periodically.

Operating costs

Although the Honda CR-V can be purchased for relatively little money, operating costs are estimated to be above average for the class. Due to their age, many cars are already quite worn out. Unfortunately, even with a small gasoline engine average consumption fuel will be at least 10 l/100 km. From the point of view of the ratio of power to fuel consumption, the restyled modification with an engine of 147 hp is much more profitable, versus the 128 hp version. 2-liter engines are practically the same structurally. The changes affected only the intake and exhaust system. The automatic version is the most voracious, but it is more comfortable to drive.

The biggest advantage of the Honda SR-V is the availability of spare parts. The market is very rich and there is no shortage of specialized stores and services. Original spare parts are expensive. Analogues are cheaper, but it is better to purchase better quality substitutes.

Conclusion

When looking for a Honda CR-V, it is better to buy a younger one with a more powerful engine. Car prices depend more on condition than age. If possible, it is necessary to check whether the crossover has not been involved in serious accidents - restoring the geometry is very problematic. It is better to avoid specimens that have often been off-road. This will be indirectly indicated by numerous deformations, dirt and abrasions on the bottom, sills and elements of the exhaust system. It is imperative to check the condition of the rear axle and differential coupling. A hum in the rear axle area while driving indicates problems with the differential or multi-plate clutch. During the test drive, you should accelerate to at least 120 km/h to ensure that there are no vibrations. If they exist, then you must understand that eliminating them will be difficult or even impossible. Let us remind you that in the case of the first generation CR-V, vibrations are not always caused by unbalanced wheels or unevenly worn tires. Be careful.